For much of us, we were made to believe that the communities that lined the aging Philippine National Railways tracks were nothing more than squatter settlements; clusters of improvised homes said to be occupied by people who stole steel from the rails themselves. There was a widely repeated story of a segment of track sawed clean off, halting the Manila-Bicol line years ago, and it became an easy picture for the way many of us viewed those who lived beside the railway: as troublemakers, the batang riles, or drifters, or people who existed beyond the rules that governed everyone else.

I’ll admit it, part of my mind was still wrapped on our missed opportunity of traveling to Balabac Islands. I find myself mentally drifting over its impossibly white sands, the kind travel dreams are made of. They say it’s one of the most beautiful islands in the world, and I was ready to believe it.

On the journey back to Batan Island, I found myself fighting off nausea aboard a small faluwa, the traditional Ivatan boat known for its open deck, deep hull, and absence of outriggers, built to navigate the strong, unpredictable currents between the Batanes islands.