The Philippines has the world's richest marine life, but the question is, for how long? It is already fascinating to know that the Philippines is considered as the “center of marine biodiversity,” now imagine being at the center of the center. The Verde Island Passage, spanning an area of roughly 1.14 million hectares of sea surrounding the provinces of Batangas, Oriental and Occidental Mindoro, Marinduque, and Romblon, is recognized as the “center of the center of marine shore fish biodiversity.”

Thriving Marine Life, But for How Long?

In 2005, two marine scientists, Victor Springer of the Smithsonian Institute and Kent Carpenter of the International Union for Conservation and Nature, recorded an astounding 1,736 intersecting marine species thriving in a 10-kilometer stretch of Verde Passage, recording the highest concentration of marine life anywhere in the world.

Prior to joining the Greenpeace Philippines documentation trip to Verde Island, this mind-blowing fact was unbeknownst to me. While I have seen the vast riches of our marine life by snorkeling the waters of Coron in Palawan, Mantigue Island off Camiguin, Moalboal and Malapascua in Cebu, and countless other ocean gems of the Philippines, I still felt a slight hint of disbelief, which later became a sense of pride, learning that such a place of crucial importance in marine biodiversity can be found three hours from Manila.

Verde Island Passage is a strait that splits the islands of Luzon and Mindoro, linking Tayabas Bay with the Sibuyan Sea and the West Philippine Sea. As dynamic as the activity above water, where shipping routes between Port of Manila and the Visayas and Mindanao navigate over Verde Passage, the underwater environment is numerous times busier brought upon by the tremendous activities from its flourishing and healthy marine life.

The boatman tells us how a foreign scuba diver bellowed to him, “(Verde Passage is) one of the best in the world.” While I wasn’t able to see it with my own eyes, the splendor residing in the under belly of Verde Passage has been captured in the photographs taken by our new diver friends from NUDI (Network of Underwater Digital Imagers, Inc.), which showed a stunning collection of underwater spectacles that need protection from all kinds of threat.

Experienced scuba diver Wowi Wong revels at the visual banquet he witnessed underwater.

“The depths of Verde Passage seems like Tubbataha Reef without the ‘big boys’ (sharks, mantas, whale sharks) and its ecosystem of corals are so rich there is barely no sandy area to see.”

Becoming an Ocean Defender

NUDI scuba diver Ana Marie Lat adds;

“We are very fortunate that Verde Island, the center of the center of marine biodiversity, is easily accessible to us. It never fails to showcase its richness in coral formations, varying species of nudibranchs, sea snakes, eels, schools of big-eye trevally, rainbow runners, snappers, jacks, tuna, and many more. We were even greeted during our second dive by a hawksbill turtle. For underwater photographers like me, it is a haven both for macro and wide angle photography and videography.”

Outlining the importance of Verde Island and its Corridor Passage, Greenpeace-Philippines Oceans campaigner Vince Cinches adds;

“Verde Island is dubbed as the global epicenter of marine biodiversity, and represents the richness of our country’s marine ecosystem. It is threatened by illegal and destructive fishing, unsustainable tourism, and pollution. Our seas are important to us as it is not just about food, recreation, and livelihood, but more about our identity as Filipinos. Protecting it is not just right and important, but necessary to ensure that the future will have a healthy ocean.”

We all know the environmental threats the island of Boracay is facing now and from my own experience of traveling all over the Philippines, each time I leave a place, whether it is Calaguas Island, Palaui Island, Calayan Island up north, or Siquijor, among other beautiful beaches, the elephant in the room is always, “How long will this paradise last?” Because I vividly remember the pristine waters and soft sands of Talipanan in Puerto Galera of my college years—images now existing only in my memory as Puerto Galera is now run over by beach resorts protruding oh-so-close to the waters—I have reasons to be worried.

It’s as if we are burdened with a time frame set aside for each majestic sea in our archipelago nation, with bountiful underwater creatures clinging to dear life, whose survival rely solely on how we humans would behave. To face this growing problem, Greenpeace Philippines has submitted an urgent proposal outlining what we need to do to reverse the worsening conditions of our country’s marine resources.

The Ultimate Treasure Trove

While it calls the national government and the LGUs to a set of crucial steps of “managing fishing capacity; improving conditions of critical ecosystems; improving the wellbeing of people reliant upon our seas; and strengthening the management functions of the government Playfair Display,” the rest of the burden lies on all of us to do our share. If we want our children to see and enjoy our many beautiful islands, sublime beachfronts, and marine resources, we must take a stand against all forms of environmental abuse. Defending our ocean isn’t just the concern of one or two environmental groups; it should be our main duty as well.

Apart from the many marine species, Verde Passage also boasts of 319 species of corals, which serve as the underwater abode of fish species. Irresponsible tourism, illegal fishing, and pollution, however, caused by over-development and urbanization represent the kind of risks that Verde Passage and our other marine treasures face today.

As a non-licensed scuba diver, I joined the rest of my traveling companions at Verde Island where we snorkeled by the shore. The healthy coral system is already evident from the shallow waters, making me imagine the kind of haven residing in the deeper part.

Our weekend trip to Verde Island was an eye-opener for me. I learned about how things could quickly shift and suddenly threaten a rich marine sanctuary through lack of foresight and recklessness. The images taken by NUDI divers Wowi Wong and Ana Marie Lat are a testament to the wonders of our marine resources. Their very threatened existence right now should stir us to action and push us to do everything we can to protect and defend these precious resources from natural and man-made threats.

This article appeared on the July 19, 2015 issue of Manila Bulletin's Panorama Magazine.
Photo Credits: Wowi Wong and Marie Lat of NUDI (Network of Underwater Digital Imagers Inc. and Studio H2O)

It took a labor strike of some sort to give us a rare downtime during the Kerala Blog Express 2. During our 2-week exploration of the state of Kerala, we traveled from one city to another after a day or two. After ten days, we kind of felt a little travel fatigued—despite enjoying every second of it—and would welcome any pause from our itinerary. Good thing, it happened in a place where we’re billeted in a resort tucked within the lush forest of Vythiri Resort in the town of Wayanad.

Instead of the supposed to be an overnight stay, we ended up staying for three nights thus giving us one whole day of sheer relaxation. It was an opportunity that I took advantage to explore the resort’s property and ventured outside on a bicycle for some bird-watching experience.

The resort hosted a party for us during our first night over a bonfire, a feast of Southern Indian cuisine and a dazzling show of cultural dances. It was the first time we were offered alcoholic drinks during our trip as people in Kerala are not much fond of drinking.

The next couple of days was spent on relaxing at the resort’s various charming spots. Despite the cozy-ness of my spacious villa, I took time to walk around the resort as everything seems to be an extension of the great outdoors of Vythiri’s tropical forest teeming with bounteous nature.

I also befriended a few of the staff namely the gregarious Janesh who is probably the most popular staff in the resort. Standing not over 4 feet tall, Janesh is someone who can instantly become your friend because of his jovial personality. Another manager named Sathya would always greet me with the Tagalog word of greeting “Kamusta” every time he would see me. He told me he learned it from Filipinos he worked with when he spent the early part of his career in the Middle East.

One of Vythiri Resort’s nature expert staff named Bijesh accompanied me on a biking tour outside the property. Along the way, we pedaled past stretches of tea, coffee and spice plantation before we stopped to observe the bird noises emanating from the towering trees.

Each time, Bijesh would go on a deep concentration mode as if tracing the source of the sounds with his mind. Surveying the treetops, he would silently motion me to look at a certain direction. “Look at the tip of the tree, you see that yellow one” he would tell me.

After taking me a while getting used to spotting small birds atop branches of trees—as if my eyes suddenly adjusting to noticing even the tiniest of movements—I started seeing an array of birds of different species. Bijesh would one by one tell me “That one is a Scarlet Minivet, that one is a Flameback” and so on.

All in all, he recited the various types of birds we saw and as I wrote it on my notepad one by one: full black drongo, gray malabar hornbill, yellow brown bullbull, plain flower picker, gray wagtail, chestnut headed bee-eater, malabar whistling thrush, white throated kingfisher, malabar parakeet (rare), oriental magpie robin, hill maina, crimson backed sunbird (smallest bird of kerala), cattle egret, white cheeked barbet. Apart from birds, we also saw a small group of Black monkeys (nilgiri langur) to go along with a giant squirrel.

According to him we got lucky spotting the two rare bird species of gray malabar hornbill and the malabar parakeet as bird watchers often spend days just to spot these two species. My only regret was not having a telephoto lens to capture the birds we saw on photographs.

Billed as "an exquisite jungle getaway', Vythiri Resort lives up to it at every aspect of its character. Located right in the smack of an enormous canopy of lush tropical rainforest, the whole property appears like a hidden habitat of all living beings; humans, birds, reptiles, blossoming plants, amphibians and countless creatures alike.

During the morning the surrounding is enveloped by a thick fog and this is when I would time my walk from my villa to the breakfast place trudging slowly over a hanging bridge that stretches across a streaming river.

The types of rooms are aplenty as well. Aside from the villa-type where I stayed, they also have a bunch of spacious tree houses and a grand 2-story Honeymoon Villa highlighted by a glass floor that see through a private pool on the ground floor.

As the strike ended and business came back to normal in Wayanad, we set out to continue the last phase of Kerala Blog Express 2. As we set to depart the resort, I thanked the travel Gods for giving me an opportunity to recharge in such magical place teeming with wonderful living things of the forest.

As a travel writer armed with a camera and intent to document a place as real as possible, there are a few places that stand out and remain within my memory as crystal clear, as if it happened only yesterday. I could still hear the touts bugging me with “Hello boat?” - their way of offering their overpriced boat services along the Ganges River fronting the historic Ghats. For all the annoyance of the tourist trade in Varanasi, the place itself, a visual spectacle, which overflows with spirituality, will make anybody with a camera busy shooting at many fascinating subjects.

A few friends have told me: “India will challenge all your senses, especially Varanasi.” The sights, sounds and smell coupled with the passing winter wind, all combined to provide me with a very memorable experience. Witnessing various religious activities along the Ghats, which fronted rows of beautiful temples that are architectural wonders, some abandoned, some still commissioned, gave me a thrilling front seat to a wonderful view as our boat set sails over the sacred Ganges River.

Varanasi, or otherwise known as Benares, is a city in the Northern part of India located primarily in the banks of the sacred Ganges (Ganga) river in Uttar Pradesh. Varanasi is considered to be the holiest among the so-called “SaptaPuri” (the seven sacred pilgrimage cities in India) in both the Hinduism and Jainism religions.

Varanasi is also credited with playing a crucial role in the development of Buddhism. Located 13 kilometers northeast is the sacred Buddhist site called Sarnath, where Gautama Buddha first taught the “Dharma.” Today, Varanasi is known as the “spiritual capital of India.”

Activities along the Ghats showcase religious rituals highlighted by the daily cremation at the Manikarnika Ghat (“the burning Ghat”) and other holy rites. Most Hindus believe that meeting death at Varanasi brings instant salvation; therefore, you will see Hindus from other parts of India afflicted with an untreatable illness coming to Varanasi to spend their dying days there.

I tried hard not to focus on shooting just with my camera so I don’t miss seeing all the hustle and bustle with my own eyes. Still, my camera was able to capture many fascinating images. As the sun over Ganga rose and the colors of the temples and the Ghats turned from red to gold, with smoke emanating from the burning Ghat, where the cremations are held every day, I was awestruck. What a sight to behold, both in a mystifying and interesting way!

I find Varanasi as a hit-or-miss place. It isn’t for everyone. This place will make you discover what kind of traveler you are. For those who explore places to discover a new culture and to witness an entirely contrasting world inhabited by people still adhering to ancient religious traditions, Varanasi is the kind of place never to be missed.

As a traveler and a photographer, a place like Varanasi shook my core in myriad ways: From people-watching to drooling at the sights, particularly its architecture, to learning amazing facts about a new religion, culture, and history, the photographs I took barely scratched the surface of my overall experience. I hope you will be enticed to pack your backpack, grab your camera, and discover Varanasi. Be warned (or be seduced): It isn’t like any place you’ve ever been to.

Years ago I remember dropping my jaw in wonder when I saw the rice terraces of Banaue for the first time. A seemingly endless expanse of rice paddies formed like stairways lay out before me. Since then, I've seen similar ones like in Sapa in Northern Vietnam and smaller farm terraces in other provinces. Each opportunity, I find myself achieving a feeling of calm while engrossing the entire visual banquet it brings. Last February, a wonderful opportunity presented itself when I was invited to be a part of the launch of PHILTOA's (Philippine Tour Operator's Association) new travel program called Cordillera Heritage Caravan. In a span of five days, we visited the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Banaue, Kiangan, Mayoyao and Bangaan clusters of rice terraces.

PHILTOA's Cordillera’s Heritage Caravan

This program is part of the Philippines Department of Tourism Visit Philippines 2015 campaign and participated by tour companies belonging in the PHILTOA organization. PHILTOA President Cesar Cruz shares.

"The Cordillera Heritage Caravan will accommodate both foreign and local markets where they can choose to bring their own vehicles or avail of the caravan vehicle. The caravan is designed to provide flexibility in choices of activities and accommodations. The trip promises that each traveller will be able to choose according to comfort as they will be given options like a campsite, star-rated properties, lodge houses, and even hostels."

A tiny settlement, just a few hundred feet below the main highway, was nestled within the breathtaking Bangaan scenery. The expansive view of the rice terraces immediately announced its presence as we approached in a mountain jeep seated from a top-load position.

From the roadway, you can make out the grouped roofs of residences in the valley, which stand for its diminutive position in comparison to the surrounding mountains. Coming from the congested major metropolis, I quickly appreciated the kind of environment that the little town offered, as the immense open space suddenly became apparent.

For the descent to the settlement, our party split into smaller groups. I was on my own at the trailhead, pausing only to take in my surroundings in awe of the natural beauty. At a fork in the road, I went left and eventually came to a little school where I overheard some children playing hop-a-garter-rope.

I reached the village after thirty minutes and watched as the others played with the children. After that, a local guide took us on a tour of some of the last remaining traditional Ifugao houses, pointing out important features and explaining their significance. The Oliang component, which is a wooden disc fastened to the four pillars that keep rodents outside the house, really stood out to me. The use of cogon for the roof is similarly remarkable for its significance; this humble material can insulate the entire house from intense heat and rain, and it also absorbs any odors that may be released by indoor cooking.

The house itself can be easily dismantled and transferred to another place - making the concept of Bayanihan real in this part of the country. The most memorable part of our journey around the village was getting a closer look at and understanding more about the traditional Ifugao house. As an example of brilliant ethnic architecture, the Ifugao home employs an ancient technique of house construction that serves more purposes than its simple appearance would indicate.

With the daylight slowly drifting away from the sky's horizon and the wind starting to howl stronger, I feel the cold engulfing my body. But new information about the humble lifestyle in these small communities dotting the expansive Bangaan rice terraces flooded my thoughts. In the same way that the Ifugaos' forefathers labored the land by hand, the ipugo built practical traditional dwellings and created breathtaking rice terraces. After this short hike, I realized that people and environment can get along just fine without technology.