Having celebrated its 400th anniversary this year, Tainan continues to hold dear the ancient culture of Taiwan. It is the country's oldest city and once served as the capital of Formosa, the previous name of Taiwan, for 260 years spanning the rule of the Dutch, the Kingdom of Tungning, and finally, the Qing Dynasty.

Chosen by CNN as one of the 24 best travel destinations in 2024, there's no shortage of scenic sites around. From picturesque natural landscapes, salt and flower farms, old temples, museums, and a rich culinary scene, Tainan provides travelers with another pleasant southern surprise in Taiwan. Following our Kaohsiung exploration, we raced to Tainan for an additional cultural trip. Our first stop: Chimei Museum.

Being a museum enthusiast, I have high expectations for whatever museum I visit. And because of the magnificent collections housed in our National Museum Manila — all three galleries the Museum of Fine Arts, National Museum of Natural History and National Museum of Anthropology — I anticipate that others in different cities and nations will be nearly as good as ours.

Fortunately, I was thoroughly impressed by Tainan City's Chimei Museum. It would take more than a day to see everything at the Chimei Museum, just like at our own National Museum complex in Manila.

The museum's five galleries cover a wide range of topics: the Fine Arts, Musical Instruments (including the largest collection of violins in the world), Natural History and Fossils, and my favorite, Arms and Armor, which displays a variety of weaponry and armor from different time periods and cultures.

Art breathes freely in the city of Tainan, as dotting the region are a number of museums such as the National Museum of Taiwan Literature, the Thousand Fields Seed Museum, the Ciji Temple Museum, the National Museum of Taiwan History, and countless temples and creative spaces.

There is also the Blueprint Culture and Creative Park, which is a fascinating spot bubbling with creativity. Formerly a block full of rundown dwellings before it underwent gentrification and opened to the public in 2015. Most of the houses, which are now souvenir shops and charming cafes, were meticulously restored to its original beauty using the technical drawing style of blueprint design as inspiration.

The Old Judiciary Dormitory in Tainan's neighborhood has undergone a transformation, with kaleidoscopic lines, animated patterns, and interactive artworks now adorning its walls. The dorms were once home to employees of Tainan Prison. The two or three blocks of tiny, vibrantly colored shops are located in the middle of a busy business center and are surrounded by similarly vibrant wall paintings. Be on the hunt behind every plant box, roof, and wall because although most of the artworks are plainly visible, others are hidden.

From culture tripping, we set out on a nature trail in Tainan, passing by the blooming fields of Arwin Therapy Garden and into the mountainside. There, we savored a steaming mug of coffee and resisted the temptation to plunge into the waters of Guanziling Hot Spring, home to Tainan's mud hot springs.

Our Tainan journey came to a close at Anping Old Fort, where we wandered through its olden streets’ maze of narrow lanes and explored the neighboring Mazu Temple, which previously served as the palace of Ning Jin, the last ruler of the Ming dynasty.

Formerly held by the Dutch, Anping Old Fort was taken over in 1661 by Koxinga, also known as Zheng Chenggong, the Prince of Yanping, a Southern Ming general who opposed the Qing invasion of China in the 17th century.

Despite extensive renovations, the Anping Fort grounds are still a fascinating historic site. There are artifacts from the original 70-meter-long fort walls and a museum that tells the narrative of Tainan, its culture, and the Dutch occupation.

Our trip to Tainan and Kaohsiung opened my eyes to the fact that Taiwan is home to much more than only Taipei's culinary delights, Jiufen Old Street's endearing atmosphere, Sun Moon Lake's romantic allure, Yangmingshan National Park's jaw-dropping beauty, and so on. Taiwan truly offers a limitless array of experiences for inquiring travelers like me, and this southern journey is but one more unforgettable taste of what the country has to offer.

So, as this three-part #2024Taiwan trip blog posts suggests (see the other two here: Taiwan Lantern Festival and Kaohsiung's Many Charms), pack your bags and visit Asia soon, and please, don't forget to pass by Taiwan.

Imagine Taipei, but more relaxed. That is how I would describe Kaohsiung, Taiwan's second-largest city. Despite being laid-back, the city has evolved into a thriving metropolis brimming with modern living necessities such as charming cafes, walking paths, cycling routes, outdoor parks, museums, jazz bars, art districts, and more, all surrounded by adjacent beaches and expansive, lush, forested mountains.

While most tourists are familiar with Taipei—the capital city—and its stunning blend of modern and traditional architecture, night markets, and cultural and historical sites, they might be surprised to learn that Kaohsiung shares much of the same vibe—albeit with less hustle and more solitude. Here, curious visitors to Taiwan might find a southern charm just waiting to be explored.

It’s been a while since I last traveled abroad, so the sighting of wide roads, spacious sidewalks, and the presence of airy parks at almost every other block astounded me. The city is well-known for its petrochemical and technology industries, but it also manages to raise its residents' standard of living through thoughtful urban planning that incorporates livable space.

One of the most important aspects of effortless mobility is the availability of an efficient transportation system, and what better place to highlight Kaohsiung's transportation than the Formosa Boulevard Metro Station? It is a three-level underground station known for its "Dome of Light," which was designed by Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata and is the world's largest glass sculpture made from individual glass pieces. The art glass piece, which consists of over 4,500 glass panels, is 30 meters in circumference and spans an area of 2,180 square meters.

Every day, various light shows lasting approximately 10-15 minutes take place under the Glass Dome route. Another noteworthy feature of the station are the four glass pedestrian entrances designed by the world-renowned Japanese architectural firm Shin Takamatsu Architect & Associates.

In an hour, you can see a lot of the city since there's minimal traffic. We achieved just that, as we quickly found ourselves basking in the afternoon sun and refreshing breeze near the seaside, not far from the Pier-2 Art District, where converted warehouses now house galleries and art spaces.

I also discovered that you could learn more about Kaohsiung's art and architecture scene by walking along the canal-side promenade that leads to the Great Harbor Bridge, where an impressive building catches your attention; the Kaohsiung Music Center, which features a geometrical shape inspired by the ocean waves and other aquatic creatures.

A hundred steps beyond that, you’ll come across the Kaohsiung Museum of History, which is another eye-popping structure designed in the classic imperial crown style distinctive of Japan.

Another attraction in the same area is the Love River, which flows through the heart of Kaohsiung and serves as a model of urban renewal thanks to its transformation from a polluted river into a peaceful stretch of water surrounded on each side by restaurants, cafes, clouds, and galleries. Following the beautification of this river, it became a popular dating place for lovers, therefore earning the name Love River.

Not too far from the bridge on the Love River, one can find the Basilica Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary, the oldest Roman Catholic Church in Taiwan. First established in 1858 by the Dominicans, the church underwent various restorations before being rebuilt into its current Gothic and Romanesque form in 1928.

There are so many interesting locations to visit in Kaohsiung that you may not realize it, but you'll be amazed to find that you've already walked over 20,000 steps.

A Taste of Kaohsiung’s Street Food Culture

Despite a long day and more than 20,000 steps, we didn’t let the opportunity to explore Kaohsiung’s night market go to waste. The Liouhe Night Market, a straightforward 300–400 meter street with food stalls on both sides, is a good place to get to know Taiwan's street food culture despite being shorter than Raohe Night Market in Taipei.

The almost a kilometer walk from our hotel worked to my advantage as I was able to tome down what I had for dinner and create room for some street food-tripping. The staple of Taiwanese street gastronomy were on full display and already attracting a growing crowd by 9pm.

For first timers in Taiwan, it is imperative not to miss the mysterious stinky tofu, which is an acquired taste and one of the hallmarks of Taiwanese cuisine. Having tried it in my earlier visit to Taiwan, I took a pass this time and focused on the others that made me drool to no end. There's the oyster omelet, green onion and oyster cake, taro balls, peanut ice cream wraps, oyster vermicelli, gua bao—also known as Taiwanese hamburger, albeit saucier—fried chicken fillet, mango shaved ice, grilled squid, gao bao (pork belly buns), flame-torched beef, Taiwanese sausage, and more.

While I would have like to sample everything, I settled for a Taiwanese sausage from one booth, some green onion and oyster cake from another, and a glass of bubble tea to wash it all down.

Before proceeded to Tainan, we wrapped up our Kaohsiung media familiarization tour with a stop at Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum.

Widely regarded as Buddhism's spiritual epicenter in southern Taiwan, a visit to Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum provides an excellent opportunity to delve deeper into the Buddhist teachings. Laid out over hilltops spread over thirty hectares, visitors can explore a variety of religious and educational sites, including historic Buddhist temples as well as the more modern Buddha Museum.

Eight symmetrical pagodas line up a wide walkway in the Buddha Museum, with a main hall and a gigantic statue of Shakyamuni Buddha at the end. The pagodas house exhibits, interactive spaces, and a wedding hall for Buddhist ceremonies. Several galleries display fascinating Buddhist artifacts and relics in both permanent and scheduled exhibitions, while the main hall is home to numerous shrines.

When one mentions the word lanterns, understandable concerns about the environment usually follow. Where would the lanterns land? Who would clean up the debris? Questions regarding the environmental impact of the recent Lantern Festival in Tainan, a city in southern Taiwan, should be put to rest. The festival is now in its 35th year and is staged as part of the sustainable tourism program run by the Taiwan Tourism Administration (TTA). Instead of sending lanterns soaring into the sky, the Lantern Festival features a variety of colorful, designed, and LED-lit lanterns that remain fixed on land — and displayed throughout the festival's duration from February 24 to March 10, 2024.

To sum it up, it's one glittery, eye-catching extravaganza.

Not to be confused with the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival, which is held in conjunction with the Lantern Festival every year in Taiwan, the Lantern Festival held its first event in 1990. While the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival invites controversy because of the lanterns released into the sky, it is also steeped in ancient traditions and has made considerable efforts in the past several years to make the event more environmentally friendly.

The Lantern Festival, meanwhile, only features modern lanterns laid out stationary on the pedestals and merge contemporary pop culture with traditional Taiwanese folk art figures and Chinese zodiac signs.

The Lantern Festival revelry starts every 15th day of the first month of the Lunar Year, which in the Gregorian calendar falls into either January or February. A different city in Taiwan hosts the festival every year.

This year’s host city and theme

The 2024 Lantern Festival host is the southern Taiwanese city of Tainan. It has been 16 years since Tainan last hosted the Lantern Festival, but this year made it extra special as the city is also celebrating its 400th anniversary, making the occasion double celebratory.

Highlighting Tainan's varied culture, inventions, and position as a national leader in green energy, this year's lantern festival is themed "Glorious Tainan."

Renowned artist Peng Li-chen drew inspiration from the flying dragons found on the pillars of Tainan's Grand Mazu Temple, also known as the Great Queen of Heaven Temple to create the 72-foot "Dragon Comes to Taiwan" lantern, which serves as the festival's centerpiece attraction marking the "Year of the Dragon" in 2024.

Two main exhibition sections, the "High-Speed Rail Lantern Area" and the "Anping Lantern Area," displayed more than 300 pieces of lantern art to complete this year’s Lantern Festival. Included in the "High-Speed Rail Lantern Area" are seven expansive exhibition zones surrounding the high-speed rail station. These zones showcase a variety of themed lantern regions, with the main lantern being "Dragon Comes to Taiwan."

Why the Lantern Festival is celebrated in Taiwan

Dating back to many centuries, every fifteenth day of the lunar calendar, many Chinese villages celebrate the Lantern Festival, which is also called "Little New Year." Fireworks, lanterns, and temple visits to see festive displays are all part of this significant New Year's folk festival.

The event is seen as promoting a scene of togetherness and happiness while representing national wealth and harmony. The primary topic of the lanterns is based on the Chinese zodiac sign of the year, drawing from traditional culture.

Introducing this year’s lantern art pieces

Named as one of the “Worlds Best Festivals”, it came as no surprise when the 2024 Lantern Festival in Tainan already attracted more than 220,000 visitors during the testing demo alone. Throughout the more than two-week event, that number has further increased.

More than 300 lantern art pieces were put on display on the grounds of Anping Recreational Wharf and Tainan's High-Speed Rail station. Because the solar energy photovoltaic business in Tainan is world-renowned. In keeping with the lantern festival's emphasis on eco-friendly practices, this year's featured lantern used solar energy components like EVA and environmentally friendly materials like carbon 60.

Incorporating naked-eye 3D technology for the first time, the themed lantern combined diverse lantern media materials, highlighting Taiwan's unique geographical features, and connecting ecology to tourist attractions.

The featured lanterns art pieces represented an array of figures, from dragons and pirates to iconic figures from Taiwanese pop culture, such as the Black Bear and Black-Faces Spoonbill, as well as western figures like Spongebob, to the endless delight of the spectators and guests who traveled to Tainan to witness this year’s Lantern Festival.

This early, the Taiwan Tourism Administration (TTA) is already promising a bigger and more extravagant Lantern Festival in 2025.

See you all in next year’s Lantern Festival.

My memory of this vibrant neighborhood of Tainan revolves around the pleasing smile of Emily—the EVA Air manager who traveled with our small media group to Taiwan. Mirroring the captivating cobalt art installations at Blueprint Culture and Creative Park, her stares rapid fires into me with invisible arrows arresting my full attention. To save myself from (an expected) heartbreak, I remember ignoring her as we crossed the street by focusing my eyes on the vibrant wall paintings adorning the side of the buildings nearby.

Said to be inspired by the art scene thriving in nearby Kaohsiung, the ones here in Tainan instantly arouses fascination street visuals—ranging from neat lines to sketches depicting everyday life—all in its flamboyant magnificence. A minute into our exploration and I already see comparisons with that of the street art culture of Penang, Malaysia.

First opened in 2015, the present site of Blueprint Culture and Creative Park was once a block swarming with abandoned houses. Pulling inspiration from the technical drawing method of blueprint design, each home was restored beautifully to its current appearance—most of which are now operating as souvenir shops and quaint cafes.

This part of Tainan’s neighborhood known as the Old Judiciary Dormitory (where employees of Tainan prison used to reside) now takes a different form highlighted by kaleidoscope lines, animated patterns and interactive paintings. Nestled amidst a bustling commercial district, the brightly painted small establishments fringed with equally colorful wall murals, expands to a couple of blocks. Most of the artworks are easily visible while others remain hidden in plain sight—so better be on the lookout behind every plant boxes, roofs and walls.

“There, let me take a photograph of you”, I always command Emily, as the sight of her behind my camera lens doesn’t betray her prettiness as seen from the naked eyes. She would let out a small protest but would eventually pose with a simple flair that would still put a lot of those ‘Instagrammer models’ to shame. I could only imagine what its like exploring the world with her.

The bare house standing at the entrance of the park is turned into an eye-candy attraction by the 3-dimensional white lines that create an illusion of additional space inside the ruined house. At first glance it quickly summons a symmetry of a room leading to a parallel world, as the lines interacts with several furniture installations.

As the various architectural lines plays tricks with the mind by creating optical impressions, Emily’s charm attack remains true to form—captivating and a magnet for fondness—that I try to dodge to no avail. I once again to concentrate my mind on the beautiful art around me rather than the beautiful soul nearby.

Despite being confined to a smaller place compared to that of Penang’s, Tainan’s street art culture is showing a lot of promise as it slowly expands to other neighborhoods.

It took us more than an hour exploring the park’s every corner and looking for unique finds inside the numerous independent shops. It also took me half of that time to be furtherly enamored by Emily—especially each time she’d look at the camera with that lovely smirk of hers.

Come nighttime, the park takes into a different groovy appearance as the lights creates a more stunning 3D effect of every mural painting. Similarly, my keenness for Emily takes into notches higher but desperately remaining in friendship level. Something I wished I’ve nurtured and not lost grip on.

As they say, life imitates art—in this case, its art appearing as majestic as life. Even if it was for a fleeing moment only.