Imagine Taipei, but more relaxed. That is how I would describe Kaohsiung, Taiwan's second-largest city. Despite being laid-back, the city has evolved into a thriving metropolis brimming with modern living necessities such as charming cafes, walking paths, cycling routes, outdoor parks, museums, jazz bars, and art districts, all surrounded by adjacent beaches and expansive, lush, forested mountains.
Discovering Kaohsiung's Many Charms | Taiwan
While most tourists are familiar with Taipei—the capital city—and its stunning blend of modern and traditional architecture, night markets, and cultural and historical sites, they might be surprised to learn that Kaohsiung shares much of the same vibe—albeit with less hustle and more solitude. Here, curious visitors to Taiwan can discover a distinct southern charm just waiting to be explored.
Modern Urban Brilliance & Art Districts
It had been a while since I last traveled abroad, so the sight of wide roads, spacious sidewalks, and airy parks on almost every block astounded me. The city is well known for its petrochemical and technology industries, but it also manages to raise its residents' standard of living through thoughtful urban planning that incorporates generous livable space.
One of the most important aspects of effortless mobility is an efficient public transit system, and what better place to highlight Kaohsiung's transportation network than the Formosa Boulevard Metro Station? It is a three-level underground hub famous for its "Dome of Light," designed by Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata, which stands as the world's largest glass artwork created from individual glass pieces. Comprising over four thousand five hundred glass panels, the masterwork measures thirty meters in circumference and spans an area of two thousand one hundred eighty square meters.
Every day, various light shows lasting approximately ten to fifteen minutes take place beneath the glass dome route. Another noteworthy feature of the station is its set of four glass pedestrian entrances designed by the world-renowned Japanese firm Shin Takamatsu Architect & Associates.
Because traffic is minimal, you can see a lot of the city in just one hour. We achieved just that, quickly finding ourselves basking in the afternoon sun and refreshing sea breeze near the harbor, not far from the Pier-2 Art District, where converted shipping warehouses now host contemporary galleries and creative spaces.
I also discovered that you can learn more about Kaohsiung's art and architecture scene by walking along the canal-side promenade that leads to the Great Harbor Bridge. There, an impressive structure catches your eye: the Kaohsiung Music Center, featuring a geometrical shape inspired by ocean waves and marine life.
A hundred steps beyond that, you’ll come across the Kaohsiung Museum of History, another eye-popping structure designed in the classic imperial crown style distinctive of early twentieth-century Japanese influences.
Another prominent highlight nearby is the Love River, which flows through the heart of Kaohsiung and serves as a stellar model of urban renewal. Once a polluted waterway, it was transformed into a serene stretch of water flanked by restaurants, cafes, pedestrian crowds, and open-air galleries. Following its revitalization, it became a romantic destination for couples, earning its enduring moniker: Love River.
Not far from the bridge spanning the Love River sits the Basilica Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary, the oldest Roman Catholic church in Taiwan. First established in 1858 by Dominican friars, the structure underwent multiple restorations before being rebuilt into its current Gothic and Romanesque synthesis in 1928.
There are so many fascinating sites to visit across Kaohsiung that you might not even notice when you've logged over twenty thousand steps in a single day.
A Taste of Kaohsiung’s Street Food Culture
Despite a long day logging more than twenty thousand steps, we didn’t let the opportunity to explore Kaohsiung’s night market culture go to waste. The Liouhe Night Market—a straightforward three-hundred-to-four-hundred-meter street lined with food stalls on both sides—serves as an ideal introduction to southern Taiwanese gastronomy, even if it is more compact than Raohe Night Market in Taipei.
The nearly one-kilometer walk from our hotel worked to my advantage, allowing me to digest dinner and create room for a late-night street food crawl. Staples of Taiwanese culinary culture were on full display, drawing eager crowds by nine in the evening.
For first-timers in Taiwan, missing out on stinky tofu is almost impossible—it's an acquired taste and a hallmark of the island's street food legacy. Having sampled it during a previous trip, I skipped it this time to focus on other mouthwatering treats: crispy oyster omelets, scallion and oyster cakes, taro balls, peanut ice cream wraps, oyster vermicelli, gua bao (Taiwanese pork belly burgers), fried chicken cutlets, mango shaved ice, charcoal-grilled squid, flame-torched beef, and savory Taiwanese sausages.
While I wanted to sample everything, I settled on a savory Taiwanese sausage, a freshly griddled scallion-oyster cake, and a cold cup of bubble tea to wash it all down.
The Spiritual Sanctuary of Fo Guang Shan
Before traveling onward to Tainan, we wrapped up our Kaohsiung media familiarization tour with a visit to the Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum.
Widely recognized as the spiritual epicenter of Mahayana Buddhism in southern Taiwan, the expansive complex spans over thirty hectares across rolling hilltops, providing visitors with a immersive environment to learn about Buddhist philosophy, history, and heritage.
Eight symmetrical pagodas flank a grand central concourse leading to the main hall, anchored at the far end by a colossal bronze statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. The pagodas house interactive cultural exhibits, quiet contemplation chambers, and specialized halls for ceremonial occasions, while the main galleries display rare sacred relics from across Asia.
As this three-part southern Taiwan series shows (be sure to explore the companion features: Taiwan Lantern Festival and Tainan, Another Southern Surprise), Kaohsiung offers a rich, relaxed, and deeply rewarding alternative to the northern capitals.
