Bagan’s Temple of the Rising Sun | Myanmar

August 31, 2013
Experience the magical sunrise over the temple-ruin-filled plains of Bagan, Myanmar. A journey by bicycle to Buledi Temple, capturing the "timeless" landscape of thousands of ancient pagodas as they emerge from the shadows into a fiery, golden dawn.
Myanmar / Bagan / Southeast Asia

Bagan’s Temple of the Rising Sun | Myanmar

By Marky Ramone Go September 2013

There's no way we would've missed out witnessing the daily handling of the torch from darkness to daylight. The idea was to stand somewhere atop a temple and greet the sunrise with awakened eyes. However, in rare instances where reality overtakes the expectations of imagination, what I saw was more gratifying and romantic – even without reciting a line from a Nicholas Sparks novel. Even If I nibble the breakfast of the most obnoxious man in the world that morning, I'd still categorize the major part of what I experienced that day as something I should keep in my memory vault.

Bagan Myanmar Sunrise Landscape
The transition from darkness to daylight over the plains of Bagan

Notwithstanding forgetting the name of the temple, that moment when the sun rose up over the vast temple-ruin-filled plains of Bagan, each moving stills commanded a concentrated stare. Moving images which are now on-call for situations when I find myself blindfolded, just so I could be reminded that a new day starts when darkness fades.

Bagan Myanmar Morning View

It was still dark when we went out on our rented bicycles, while we chose to pedal our way, the others opted to ride a horse-drawn cart to Buledi Temple. The weather was colder than I expected coming from a day with high 30's Celsius temperature. Our ride was smooth over the asphalted road, with the stillness of a new day hanging around like the quietness of an empty room. I could only hear cracking sounds of scattered twigs as my bike wheels rolled over it.

Early morning at Bagan temples
Silhouettes emerging from the pre-dawn shadows

Soon our guide, who was commandeering the horse-drawn cart turned right and unto a sandy terrain, pedaling through it became a bit harder as the thick soft sands buries our bicycle wheels by a couple of inches, leaving us no choice but to push it along until coming again over a flattened soil. Looking around I saw temples illuminated against a black sky, shining like gold from a distance while still surrounded by darkness.

Sunrise seeping over Bagan plains

We reached Buledi temple by the time the sky starts to turn light gray. The slowly seeping daylight exposes the vast light golden color of the Bagan plains. I saw the towering edges of the nearby temples, counting it will distract you further because of its sheer number. We climbed the stairs until we reached the third level of the temple and sat facing the direction of the rising sun.

Buledi Temple View Bagan
A sea of pagodas viewed from Buledi Temple

As I was setting up my tripod, I looked out and saw an un-ending image of temples and pagoda of all sizes scattered around. It was a scenery similar atop Schwesandaw Pagoda, where we saw the setting sun the previous afternoon. Blinking your eyes means missing out on it by a precious few thousands of a second.

Marky Ramone Go at Bagan

The sky was foggy and even dusty, might be due to the desert-like terrain around Bagan. While it covers the sun, the brightness was enough to make the sun visible. As the Earth slowly turns and the fiery yellow round sun shoots up the sky, it produces a golden colored landscape. Soon the whole sky was turned into a high contrast of yellow-red, a dramatic picture which could fill an old man's eyes with drops of tear, while recollecting memories of a naked lover lying stretched over a grassy knoll.

Pinoy Travel Bloggers in Myanmar
Shared moments captured in time with fellow travelers

I'm not that old yet, so my train of thinking was re-routed on how the towering temples silhouetted against the sun, weirdly reminded me of Gengis Khan's head. A little over a week before our trip to Myanmar, I came across many descriptions of Bagan. The word "timeless" is always mentioned. Standing atop the temple, nevermind if a heavy DSLR was hanging on my neck, shrug the existence of my lightweight tripod and the LED smart phone screens producing shutter sounds, there is this vibe of being captured in time - catapulted back hundreds or thousands of years and using your imagination, you could almost feel what it was like back in the 13th century.

Pink Manila Hostel: A Nomadic Pranksters New Hideout

August 21, 2013

I missed the discussion about the Ottoman Empire (over a case of beer) the previous night. Thank goodness as even I consider myself a bit of a nerd, I can only go as far as the boxer rebellion. My friend Gaye who initiated that out-of-nowhere topic, was staying at Pink Manila Hostel for a couple of nights when I invited myself to join her hang out by the pool. The sky was overcast and the road was drenched in puddles of rain when I arrived at the Vito Cruz area. Around early in the afternoon I came about this seven-floor building with the Pink Manila Hostel sign. I entered the gate and was met by stare downs from metal pumping 3-sets-12-rep-160-pounder-bench-press junkies. I momentarily feared about walking into a trap. 

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Cool Beans Library Cafe: Where The Gore and Anti-Hipster Club Meet

August 15, 2013

Somewhere along the line of our conversation, the topic came upon a fork and swerved left straight into true crimes territory. A dozen serial killer names and mind blowing murder descriptions later, we decided to name our group as the Gore and Anti-Hipster Club. The founding members are; Lot, Reese, Karl and myself. You probably have an idea what we'll do if we come across a bunch of hipsters. Anyway, I’ve known these people for quite some time. We all got connected through our madness-filled blogs at the now defunct Multiply site. Kindred souls when it comes to literature, the beatnik culture and the prose that goes along the lines of Kerouac’s mad people’. And what better way than to reconnect with them after a number of years, at a place called “Cool Beans Library Cafe” , which is located at Maginhawa Street in Quezon City.

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Luljetta’s Hanging Gardens and Spa

August 14, 2013

Quietly situated in the hills of Antipolo is a relaxation haven called Luljetta's Hanging Gardens and Spa. As seen from the Zen lounge, the bright lights of Ortigas and Makati seems like another world away. The endless myriad of human activity on that far-away world was a stark contrast to the tranquility I was experiencing as I sat on a wooden bench. Soon, I let go of my worries and allowed the vibe of the place to bring forth a silent occupancy of my senses. In a wave of free-flowing karmic urge, the same thing was happening inside a packed MOA arena, as our Smart Gilas boys, freeing itself with fear - have finally ended a spate of unfortunate beatings against the South Koreans, with a FIBA-World clinching victory.

SPA-Therapist
Spa Therapist. Photo property of Luljetta's

Monkey Filled Stairway to Taung Kalat Monastery, Mount Popa | Myanmar

August 03, 2013
Journey to Mount Popa and the breathtaking Taung Kalat Buddhist Monastery in Myanmar. Scale the iconic 777 steps of this majestic volcanic plug rising above the scorching Bagan plains to discover panoramic vistas, playful local wildlife, and deep spiritual heritage.
Myanmar / Faith / Southeast Asia

Monkey Filled Stairway to Taung Kalat Monastery, Mount Popa | Myanmar

By Marky Ramone Go August 2013

The temperature that morning must have felt like **40°C** when our group boarded two vehicles heading to Mount Popa. The plains of Bagan was unforgiving during that time of the year where the sun seems to be closer than any place on Earth. The thought of a side trip to a place thousands of feet above sea level seems like finding an oasis. As I sat at the backseat of the car, as it roll over burning-like asphalt road, flowing fire disguised as wind blows across my face. My eyes were almost tearing because of the scorching heat. I listened to the small talk between Chef Jana who was seated beside me and Melo who was at the front passenger seat, for a time before the two of them fell asleep and I was left to watch the passing dried farmlands, trees and twigs at the side of the road. 

UST Mountaineering Club
The spiral way to the top

Once in a while we would pass by small pockets of town and then a long stretch of highway again, then I would see one or two people walking by the side of the road. With the intense heat, I wondered silently how they'd survive being out for long in that heat. After an hour and a half of that repetitive scenery, our car finally rolled into the slowly elevating zig-zag road leading to the center of Mount Popa. I rolled down the window of the car and soon, I felt the breeze becoming cooler. 

Mishi Magno
There it is, the Taung Kalat Monastery

Another half an hour later our driver parked at the side of the road and ordered us to get out and pointed to us the Taung Kalat Buddhist Monastery. From where we were standing, I saw the stunning structure as it sit immovable atop a hill of the same name which was formed out of a lava neck, also called as a volcanic plug.

The Ascent of Taung Kalat

Things to do in Bagan
Posing for the camera before the trek

Rising a total of **2,417 feet** above sea level and reachable by climbing its **777 steps**, Taung Kalat Temple provides an amazing panoramic view of the whole Bagan plains. Tourists and worshipers of the Buddhist faith flock to this temple all year-round. After a few minutes we went back to the car and headed to the foot of the Taung Kalat pedestal hill. 

Celine Murillo and Gretchen Filart
Thanaka-faced girls selling souvenir items

During the middle part of the trip I've already felt some unusual rumbling in my stomach. I resisted the urge of farting and even making sudden movements as I'm pretty sure, the dam will break wide open if I did. So, I was really hoping we'd reach the place fast and hope that there are public restrooms located there. I'm proud to say, I was able to hold the fort until we arrived.

Alfie Agunoy
The pagoda spires in golden colors

I went out of the car first and told Melo and Chef Jana I would just meet them at the top. The other van which were transporting Gaye, Monette, Dong, Jerome, Ron, Reuben and Baby Luna has yet to arrive. We later found out that they stopped by the market and bought thanaka and had it applied on their faces.

Encountering the Mountain Residents

Mujee Gonzales and Christian Sangoyo
Two mischievous climbing buddies

Climbing barefoot I encountered Mount Popa's famous residents, some of the **20,000 monkeys** known to be living in the mountain and mostly concentrated at the Taung Kalat hill. They bother the visitors for peanuts, and sometimes would pick up bottles of water or anything they could get their hands on. After a dozen steps I saw a sign pointing to a public comfort room. I wasted no time and headed straight there. The toilet was surprisingly clean, almost spotless which gave me a comfortable time depositing my loose load for that day. I gave the caretaker **1,000 Kyat** afterward.

Mark Estur with Kirk Acebron and Darwin Cayetano
Resting monks on top of the mountain

Feeling like a rejuvenated soul, I found the rest of our party huddled together by the steps all set out to climb the rest of the **777 steps**. After **15 minutes** I reached the top of the hill and the temple itself with Monette. The temple looks simple and a bit detached from the impressive view as seen from afar. Still, the feeling of stepping foot on a place once resided by the hermit U Khandi provides a natural high—higher than the steps we just climbed that day.

Panoramic Rewarded Vistas

Potpot Pinili with Desa Tayting
View of the countryside

The view from the Taung Kalat Temple shows the volcanic peak of Mount Popa which towers **4,981 feet** above sea level and the surrounding plains of Bagan. I stood for a few moments, while I gather my breathe and at the same time enjoyed the cool wind. Resting, I transfixed my eyes towards the majestic **360-degree** surrounding. I took a few photographs of some monks, relaxing and surveying the scenery as well before I roamed around the remaining part of the temple.

Mount Poppa with Levy Amosin
Ready to go down

Going down, I once again encountered a number of monkeys. These funky playful creatures have become one of the attractions of Mount Popa. I took one last dump at the toilet, feeling fine I joined the rest and prepared to be extracted back to our hotel in Bagan. That moment, I felt a twinge of bittersweet feeling. Our Bagan trip was about to end and I'm just starting to savor the great experiences I had in such a short time I was there. On the way back I fell asleep on the car and had a dream about being a monk living at Taung Kalat Temple, for some reason I found it one of the best dreams I've ever had. 


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