For years, Manila has functioned as a layover - a city travelers pass through on their way to the country’s more photogenic islands. Independent tour guides hope to change that. Following the launch of the Intramuros Administration’s “Don’t Skip Manila” campaign, various historical walking tours that aims to reintroduce the capital as a destination rather than a pit-stop are now being offered to tourists and residents alike. The overall message is simple: the nation’s stories abound here.

One of the main reasons no one should miss Manila is its roster of well-curated museums. Within a walkable radius situates Intramuros and Fort Santiago, Luneta Park, the old commercial corridors of Binondo and Escolta, and the National Museum complex; a quartet of institutions devoted to fine arts, anthropology, natural history and astronomy.

For tourists inclined toward history, Manila’s museum scene expands: the San Agustin Church Museum, Casa Manila, Museo de Intramuros, the Metropolitan Museum of Manila, Museo Pambata. And that tally accounts only for Manila proper, not the wider collection of museums across Metro Manila. Just steps from Luneta Park, the National Library’s Permanent Gallery offers another surprise revelation, a reminder that the capital still hides stories waiting to be uncovered.

I had long wanted to visit the National Library, and on that Tuesday morning, I finally did. Securing a library ID was surprisingly smooth: a quick registration, posing for an ID photograph, and within five minutes, my ID card came out hot from the printer, giving me the freedom to return anytime I want.

But that morning held another objective. The night before, our friend Stephen Pamorada, heritage advocate and Manila tour guide, had stirred our excitement with a message in our group chat: “Be ready to lay eyes on Rizal’s original manuscripts of Noli Me Tangere and El Filibusterismo.” reading it sent a thrill through me. And then came his follow-up: “That’s not all.”

Stephen’s “That’s not all” meant an impressive list of documents pertaining to Philippine history: De Molucis Insulis, the earliest written account of our archipelago following Magellan and Elcano’s first circumnavigation of the world, published in 1523; handwritten notes by Jose Rizal, Apolinario Mabini, and Emilio Aguinaldo; the 1743 Murillo Velarde Map, the first detailed map of the Philippines.

There were printed issues of La Solidaridad, the trial records of Andres Bonifacio and his brother Procopio, Pedro Paterno’s Ninay, the first novel written by a Filipino author published in 1885, the Treaty of Biak-na-Bato, and one of the first copies of the Philippine national anthem, the Marcha Nacional Filipina. Even pieces of furniture such as Manuel L. Quezon’s presidential desk and chair.

The list extended further: Antonio de Morga’s Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas, annotated by Rizal, and the original 1898 Declaration of Philippine Independence itself. This to me is one of the most important documents housed inside the Permanent Gallery. These documents, their pages yellowed and ink faded, bear the weight of that historic afternoon: 4:20 P.M., June 12, 1898, when General Emilio Aguinaldo proclaimed independence in Kawit, Cavite.

I saved my last wide-eyed stare for the final display in the Permanent Gallery, what I considered the collection’s most important: the original manuscripts of Jose Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere and El Filibusterismo, alongside the original copy of Mi Último Adiós. Standing before them, I felt goosebumps. To see them in person, inked letters that had survived the passage of time, was like witnessing history itself in a way no classroom lesson could ever replicate.

The city of Iloilo is likely home to the most number of museums in the country. Within its roughly 79 square kilometer area, one can find several museums that will satisfy one's curiosity about arts, heritage, and history. These include the Museo Iloilo, the Iloilo Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Philippine Economic History, the National Museum of Western Visayas, the Museum of Philippine Maritime History, and even the University of San Agustin campus in the city, has its own archives and museum.

Inside the grounds of the University of the Philippines Visayas is another must-visit museum due to its vast collections pertaining to Visayan culture, as well as the presence of several works by our national artists.

The University of the Philippines Visayas, or UPV Museum of Art and Cultural Heritage, was one of the places we visited during the #PhilippineExperience #WesternVisayas leg, which took place in Bacolod and Iloilo. In this program, the Department of Tourism sampled a three-day itinerary to explore both cities, which tourists can replicate — and it included everything that appeals to travelers such as culinary, nature, history and cultural destinations.

Housed inside the main building of the UP Visayas, Iloilo City campus, the UPV Museum of Art and Culture Heritage was formally launched on October 22, 2022. In his opening remarks, UP Visayas Chancellor Clement C. Camposano characterized culture as not only varied but also fluid. "(culture) is constantly moving," Chancellor Camposano said. He spoke of what academics describe as culture, a dynamic and ongoing journey of meaning-making that is constantly evolving.

"These galleries, which I will dare call the cultural crown jewel of Panay and Iloilo, are really a space to celebrate both the plurality and fluidity of culture." Chancellor Camposano emphasizes the importance of this place as a democratic haven, a generous offering from the university that fosters the creation of platforms for diverse voices to be heard.

The renovation of the main building's interior to achieve museum standards was made possible by a 44-million-peso grant from the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) on top of a 15-million-peso grant given by the Commission of Higher Education (CHED) in 2019.

According to its mission statement, the museum aims to create engaging programs and exhibitions in the visual arts and cultural heritage, catering to a wide range of audiences both within and beyond the University. It also aspire to foster learning and inspire a lasting passion for art and cultural heritage, not only in the Visayas region but also of the whole country. Seeking to enhance both academic and civic life, by positioning itself as a vital component of the University of the Philippines Visayas and the surrounding community.

Iloilo is known as the “City of Love” because the Hiligaynon, the language predominantly spoken here, sounds very soothing to the ears and has a sweet intonation, making the speaker sound more friendly, loving, and kind-hearted.

Given the abundance of museums, the city could easily earn the reputation of being a hub for individuals who have a passion for learning. The city's numerous exhibition halls, galleries, and art spaces offer a glimpse of history and culture, transforming a visit into an educational experience.

After listening to the museum's curator's fascinating insights in the reception hall, we were divided into three smaller groups with a guide being assigned to each group before we entered each gallery.

In the past, I had the tendency to experience information overload and settle into zoning out, but inside this museum, I remained attentive to our guide as I absorbed a continuous flow of captivating anecdotes, historical context, and the cultural importance of each exhibit.

Housed inside the neo-classical walls of the UPV Museum of Art and Cultural Heritage, which used to be the old Iloilo City Hall during the pre-war years, are seven galleries: Panapton Textile Gallery, Taliambong UPV Art Gallery, Ed Defensor Gallery, Nelfa A. Querubin Gallery—dedicated to two Ilonggo artists, Duna Intangible Cultural Heritage Gallery, Lantip Gallery 1, and Hanas Gallery 2.

The Hanas Gallery 2 stands out as a personal favorite, showcasing the art collection of former UPV Chancellor Dr. Dionisia Rola. This impressive display features a selection of paintings from renowned national artists, including Carlos "Botong" Francisco, Ang Kiokok, Jose T. Yoya, and Arturo Luz.

Because of the many significant artworks on display I wasn’t able to take note of all the paintings on display. According to Iloilo Art Life, it also houses “masterpieces by Manuel D. Baldemor, Mauro Malang Santos, Romulo Olazo, and Manuel Rodriguez, Sr. Norberto Carating, Virginia Flor-Agbayani, Solomon Saprid, Philipp Badon, Jonah Salvosa, Esther Bailey, and Manene.

The exhibit also has earlier works by Alan Cabalfin, Nelson Ferraris, Nelfa Querubin, Ed Defensor, Joseph Decierdo, Edsel Moscoso, Edgar J. Gonzales, and JM Castociano”

The Panapton Textile Gallery captured my attention with its showcase of locally crafted textiles, prominently highlighting hablon cloth. Derived from the Hiligaynon word for "clothing," Panapton showcases an array of traditional attire, including the camisa (undergarment), Barong Tagalog, Traje de Mestiza (gowns), scarves, and infant baptism garments known as the Panyal, alongside the Saypang, a traditional garment from the Panay-Bukidnon region.

I would love to spend more time inside the museum, but since we’re following a strict schedule, we had to leave after a couple of hours. I think I should allocate more time to revisit this museum during my next visit to the City of Love, Iloilo. While I enjoy exploring the city's gastronomy scene, the heritage district, and exchanging pleasantries with the people, I also enjoy delving into the city's rich history and culture. It is now evident that the city's array of museums provides an enriching experience that ensures those with a thirst for knowledge depart with a treasure trove of fresh understandings not only about the city and the province, but of the whole Visayas region as well.

When my fascination with India began piquing my curiosity during my college years, I'd come across the name of Rabindranath Tagore, who, like his contemporary, our very own Jose Rizal, was born in the same year in 1861, and together, they also shared the distinction of being a writer, poet, and social reformer.

While my personal library, which contains more than a hundred books, half of which are still unread, only has one Rabindranath Tagore title: The Postmaster, a collection of short stories published in 1891, I remained interested in his life. Therefore, upon discovering the transformation of his family's ancestral home in Kolkata into a museum, I suggested to my friend Aileen that we ought to visit it.

After a cab ride, during which the driver informed us that the museum was "somewhere here, just ask around," upon dropping us off, we found ourselves walking for nearly an hour in search of the museum. It turns out that Rabindranath Tagore's birthplace isn't your normal residence. It covers 35,000 square meters and has housed Rabindra Bharati University since 1962.

Also known as the Jorasanko Thakur Bari (taken from two attached “sanko” or bridges and the Bengali translation for "House of the Thakurs," with Thakur being the anglicized version of "Tagore"), the residence was first built in 1784 on property provided by a wealthy member of the Sett family to Prince Dwarkanath Tagore, Rabindranath's great-grandfather.

Built in between two bridges, the Jorasanko Thakur Bari, also known as the House of the Tagore, became an integral part of Bengali culture and society. Rabindranath Tagore's family developed close associations not only with the city's business circle but also with the intellectuals of the era.

The palatial red brick mansion was where renowned thinker, writer, and Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore was born, took up early education, and also where he breathed his last. In between his extensive travels across the globe—again, much like our own Jose Rizal—Tagore would always come back here.

He brought home with him countless mementos, letters, and artworks that now make up the collection of the Rabindra Bharati museum, established in his honor following the founding of the Rabindra Bharati University in 1961—the birth centenary of Tagore.

The Rabindra Bharati Museum's collections include 2,071 books, 770 journals, 16 artworks, 27 sculptures, and 208 personal mementos. The West Bengal government acquired forty of Tagore's original paintings and notebooks from his family and has since displayed it all at the museum.

The museum not only showcases anything about Rabindranath Tagore, but it also has galleries dedicated to leading figures in Bengali Renaissance art as well as works encompassing Western art. My favorite, of course, is the gallery that shows Rabindranath's extensive travels abroad, showing rare photographs and travel journals to countries such as China, Italy, Mexico, Japan, the United States, the UK, Sri Lanka, Iraq, and more.

The museum's ban on photography turned out to be a blessing because it allowed me to concentrate entirely on the exhibits, reading the captions on the photographs and descriptions of the items. Walking out of Jorasanko Thakurbari had me contemplating the many similarities between Tagore and Rizal. Both of their writings have impacted their respective countries in terms of history, literature, and identity.

Museums, like what candy stores are for kids, are a haven for my never-ending curiosities. Whenever I travel to a new country or city, I always look forward to visiting one. Imagine my astonishment when I finally stepped foot inside a museum in a country whose ancient civilization made substantial contributions to world history, literature, writing, religion, art, architecture, science, and so on.

When one mentions the word "archaeology," one is easily reminded of Egypt. It’s no wonder the classic film Indiana Jones takes place in many cities in Egypt in pursuit of priceless antiquities. Despite the countless ancient sites and relics discovered in Egypt, it is widely believed that they only represent a meager one percent, with the remaining 99% yet to be excavated.

Fortunately, the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, which was built in 1902, holds the world's biggest collection of Egyptian antiquities. Over 170,000 objects are kept under its dome roof, with a representative amount on exhibit.

The Egyptian Museum, the Middle East's oldest archaeological museum, houses the world's greatest collection of Pharaonic antiquities covering the Pre-Dynastic Period (5500 BC) to the Greco-Roman Period (364 AD).

“Like a Bun in the Oven”

“Where are you going in Egypt?” asks the border security personnel. “Saint Catherine and then Cairo”, I replied. “Oh Cairo, too hot there now. You’re like a bun in the oven”, the bearded officer tells me.

“Well, it’s the great Sinai Desert we’re heading to”, I thought to myself. I might as well embrace the extreme weather for the experience. Bun in the oven or not, my mind was firmly focused that time on climbing Mount Sinai and seeing the Great Pyramid of Giza.

After spending a couple of days in Saint Catherine we crossed the Suez Canal heading towards Cairo tiptoeing in the border of the African continent and finally, within a Google Map pin drop of the Pyramids.

But before we visited one of the world’s greatest wonders to which Napoleon famously pointed out to his troops "Forward! Remember that from these monuments yonder 40 centuries look down upon you", we set out on a bit of a city tour that included a fancy dinner aboard a boat cruising down the River Nile.

Oh, plus a visit to the Egyptian Museum.

A House that Unveils the Mysteries of Ancient Egypt

Located on the northern side of the also historic Tahrir Square, which was the setting for numerous demonstrations preceding the Arab Spring, lies the Egyptian Museum. Designed by the French architect Marcel Dourgnon, the enormous dome-shaped structure has a distinctive pinkish hue. Within, you will find the shimmering artifacts of ancient Egyptian society's nobility, including the golden funeral mask of Tutankhamun and other famous pharaohs, as well as tombs, merchandises, mummies, jewelries, cookware, and a myriad of personal effects.

Seconds from entering my gaze immediately darted from one artifact to another. Our guide tells us, “You can spend a whole day here or maybe two and still, you would not cover everything”.

He isn’t exaggerating. If someone ask for a volunteer to relive the plot of the movie “Night at the Museum”, I’d gladly raise my hand. Since we only have three to four hours tops inside, I made sure to listen to our guide and absorb as much information as I could.

As we made our way around the museum, I couldn't help but be amazed by the sheer magnitude of the collection. Imagine trying to grasp the entirety of Egypt's past—a thousand years and counting—all within arm’s reach.

Apart from the golden burial mask, I was entirely captivated by the many masterpieces housed inside the museum. Trying to recall the ones on top of my head are the ancient papyrus that contained the Book of the Dead for the Priest of Bastet and Djoser, the diminutive statue of Cheops (Khufu), the great Pyramid builder, the statues of numerous pharaohs, especially the one of Ramses, the intriguing engraved images on limestone relief, one particular display that is a sarcophagus shaped like a mummy, and, of course, the numerous mummies displayed in a glass case.

“If only we have more time”, I thought to myself as we exited the museum. As I begin to psych myself up and calm my nerves as the thought of where we’re heading next, the Great Pyramids of Giza, I took one last look at the facade of the Egyptian Museum. The building itself is an interesting fusion of Italian Renaissance, Greco-Roman elements, and 19th-century French Beaux-Arts. Muttering wishful thoughts to myself, I make a pledge of going back Egypt for a longer time, and hopefully, I become more of an Indiana Jones than an average tourist.

There's something special about historic residences that have kept their elegance over the years, or in the case of Casa Gorordo, decades. The lower floor of this ancestral property not only preserved its basic architectural form intact, it also serves as a museum housing antiques from the glory days of Cebu's Parian neighborhood, where it is located.

The Parian area, located one km from the Minor Basilica of the Holy Child of Cebu, is one of Cebu's oldest and was formerly a stronghold for Chinese traders who arrived from Fujian, China beginning in the 16th century.

First Time’s A Charm

Despite my frequent visits to Cebu City, this is the first time I had set foot inside Casa Gorordo. It was the part of our itinerary that piqued my interest the most, and finally, on the day before the Regional Travel Fair (RTF) in Cebu City, we went on a city tour of Cebu, giving me my first look of this residence I'd heard so much about.

The home was originally constructed in the 1850s by Alejandro Reynes y Rosales before being sold in 1863 to a Spanish businessman named Juan Isidro De Gorordo, after whom it was named. Since then, four generations of the Gorordo family have lived here, including the first Filipino Bishop of Cebu, Juan Gorordo (1910-1932).

The interior and design of the house underwent modifications to reflect changes in lifestyle and local culture until it was purchased by the Ramon Aboitiz Foundation (RAFI) in 1980 as part of its Culture & Heritage advocacy. It was then restored further and opened as a public museum. On September 24, 1991, the home was declared a National Historical Landmark after over 150 years of history.

Casa Gorordo is a good example of classic Filipino architecture blended with Spanish and Chinese influences. It carries the characteristics of a typical balay nga tisa, or a home with a tiled roof. It is sometimes referred to as a "mestizo" architectural representation because, like other Filipinos born with blended heritage, its architecture exemplifies the cultural and physical mingling of the east and the west.

The house opens up to a spacious courtyard with well-manicured lawns, a giant Talisay tree and spherical plant boxes leading to the museum on the ground floor. We were greeted by a museum guide who swiftly led us to the museum's exhibit while telling us about the intriguing history behind each relic.

According to her, the museum conjures the lifestyle of a family enduring the Philippines' transition from a colonial to a contemporary society. Stories from years past abound within its walls and items, waiting to be shared to each guest that pays a visit.

Arresting Interior and Furniture

From the ground floor’s hardened walls made of coral stones, we proceeded to the 2nd level that is mostly made up of narra wood sans nails but pegs and roofed with terra cotta tiles. The ceiling, as viewed from the staircase, immediately draws your attention as you make your way to the house's various rooms adorned with the finest antique furniture that epitomizes the actual ones used during Casa Gorordo's early days.

The room’s wide windows you can open sideways commonly seen in most old houses, make each room so inviting that you just want to lie down on one of the beds and doze off in the middle of a gorgeous bright afternoon.

The prayer room and the library are another favorite of mine with the later displaying books from the 18th century as well as old copies of Jose Rizal's Noli Me Tangere and El Filibusterismo.

As our brief tour came to an end, I descended the other stairwell, which led to Bo's Coffee and a souvenir shop on the property. With a cup of coffee in hand and a couple of cats rubbing up against my legs, I stared at Casa Gorordo for one final time and envisioned it at its heyday, circa the 1860s. I imagined a world very different from the one we live in today.