Davao del Sur was one of the first provinces in Mindanao I visited. In 2009, I flew to Davao City with my then-girlfriend, Marianne. From there, we made our way to Camp Sabros, an outdoor retreat in Kapatagan, Digos City, known at the time for having one of the longest zip lines in the country, an 800-meter ride above the treetops.

On this return trip, nostalgia is inevitable—not about a failed relationship, but about my early years of travel. This time, however, the focus was different. Instead of simply taking in the landscapes, we explored the province’s cultural heritage. Doing so, I learned about traditional crafts, music, and dance, traditions that have been passed down through generations and that today remain a vital part of the region’s identity.

Not wasting any time, we first set out on a community where cultural bearers are in play to preserve the culture of the Bagobo-Tagabawa community.

We had lunch in their community of Sta. Cruz, Davao del Sur, where history, tradition, and a deep reverence for Apo Sandawa, their original name for Mount Apo, shape daily life. As one of the three dialectical groups of the Bagobo people, the Bagobo-Tagabawa of Davao del Sur are a proud indigenous group known for their rich traditions, intricate weaving, and deep spiritual connection to nature. Living in the foothills of Mount Apo, they keep age-old rituals, colorful beadwork, and rhythmic music. They have long called these foothills home, where they persevere to preserve their customs within their ancestral domain.

The chieftain’s wife welcomed us warmly, sharing that the community takes pride in hosting visitors. To mark the occasion, they performed traditional dances which acts out expressions of gratitude for a bountiful harvest. The meal that followed was just as memorable: chicken, tenderized inside bamboo, accompanied by taro cooked in coconut milk, steamed sayote tops, and grilled fish.

At Humbled by Nature Farm in Matanao, the B’laan people welcomed us with graceful traditional dances and hauntingly beautiful chants—expressions of an olden culture still very much alive.

The B’laan, neighbors to the T’boli, inhabit the rugged landscapes near Lake Sebu and the T’boli municipalities of South Cotabato, stretching through Sarangani, General Santos, southeastern Davao, and the shores of Lake Buluan in North Cotabato.

Known for their masterful brasswork, intricate beadwork, and the revered tabih weave, their artistry reflects a deep cultural lineage. Their attire is usually adorned with embroidered garments decorated with elaborate beads. The women, in particular, wear heavy brass belts, their dangling tassels tipped with tiny bells, announcing their presence long before they arrive.

Further into Davao del Sur, in the town of Bansalan, we visited the home of the late Salinta Monon (1920–2009), a revered Bagobo-Tagabawa master weaver and a 1998 recipient of the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA), or National Living Treasure Award. For most of her 89 years, Monon devoted herself to the meticulous art of weaving Inabal, the traditional Bagobo-Tagabawa textile, ensuring that her knowledge was passed down to younger generations.

Today, her legacy endures. Near her old home, the community is establishing a weaving center, where artisans like Estela Barra, Monon’s first student, continue the intricate process of crafting Inabal from abaca fibers. They also demonstrate the traditional way of wearing the Tangkulo, a scarf that serves as both an adornment and a symbol of leadership among the Bagobo-Tagabawa.

Through dedication and collective effort, the weavers of Bansalan are keeping Monon’s artistry alive, ensuring that the vibrant threads of their culture remain unbroken, woven into the future just as they have been for generations.

Beyond the culture-rich experiences that defined our journey, we found ourselves drawn to the lush farmlands that fuel the local flavors of this region. Strawberries, coffee, and an array of fruits and vegetables flourished in abundance.

But first, coffee. Or coffee farm I must say. After our community visits, we hurried off to Balutakay Coffee Farmers Association (BACOFA) in Bansalan. Over a rich, aromatic brew, we uncovered the transformative power of coffee, how these farmers are shaping lives and elevating coffee experiences worldwide with their distinctive blends.

At Lao Integrated Farm, I was reminded once again that random discoveries fuels every journey, and this time, it came in the form of an unexpected delicacy: the Peanut Butter fruit. True to its name, its taste was strikingly reminiscent of peanut butter. This farm, a sustainable organic demo site in Bansalan, Digos City, stands as a testament to innovation. Its founder, Benjamin Lao, recognized as a "scientist-farmer" by the Department of Science and Technology, has turned barren land into a thriving paradise. The farm's workforce is largely composed of members of the Bagobo community, with many of their children benefiting as scholars of the farm, ensuring that sustainability extends beyond agriculture into education and opportunity.

The caffeine trail continued to Sir Ped’s Coffee, a perfectly perched coffee shop that pairs its brews with breathtaking views of the province’s mountain ranges. Every sip here enriches the flavor of the coffee with the cool climate of the place.

Our planned ascent to Mt. Apo was thwarted by erratic weather, but the foothills of Apo Sandawa in Bansalan had no shortage of scenic alternatives. A stop at Erry Cactus Farm and Adenium introduced us to a stunning collection of cacti and adeniums in a riot of colors. While my botanical expertise extends only as far as knowing that a cactus plant have thorny spines, I could easily see plant enthusiasts going crazy in this cacti dreamland.

At The Berries Farm Cabin & Restaurant in Bansalan, the cool mist added a touch of magic to our berry-picking experience. Strawberries, mulberries, and raspberries ripened under the foggy embrace of the highlands, making every handful of fruit feel like coveted pickings.

As we climbed higher into Kapatagan in Digos City, a brief pause at the fog-laden Lake Mirror, also called Lake Cometa, offered a moment of stillness, and a chance to fly my drone camera. The lake’s glassy surface mirrored the shifting skies and the elusive silhouette of Mt. Apo’s cloud-veiled summit.

Further along, Jardin de Señorita and Haven’s Dew provided Instagrammable backdrops with bursts of floral beauty and iconic landmarks—the Eiffel Tower, the Merlion, a windmill, an old Volkswagen car and a telephone booth—all waiting to be framed into picture-perfect memories.

For our stay in the highlands, we split our time between two mountain resorts. At Camp Sabros, adventure reigned supreme as we soared over the landscape on a dual zipline and rumbled through rugged terrain in a 4x4, all while keeping our eyes locked on the imposing peak of Mt. Apo. Meanwhile, Montefrio Garden Resort welcomed us with mist-kissed mornings and a pace of life that encouraged just chilling in the cold. Between buffet feasts and bottomless cups of coffee, the mountain air carried an undeniable charm, one that made the idea of ever leaving feel like a distant thought.

Overall, my return trip to Davao Del Sur not only evoked memories of Camp Sabros and the green countryside and mountain ranges I vividly recall. It also given me a chance to unearth the rich local culture that thrives beneath the province’s stunning natural landscapes, culture that, to this day, shapes the identity of its people in ways both insightful and profound.

Often mentioned last when one converses about the Bicol region, the province of Catanduanes revealed itself with such unexpected surprise that it swiftly secured a place among my top five favorite provinces in the Philippines. Its unassuming surf culture, endless rolling hills unfolding into sweeping Pacific Ocean views, and surreal rock formations create a landscape both rugged and breathtaking. Mornings reveal scenic peaks wrapped in a sea of clouds, while waterfalls, hidden lagoons, and a winding coastline of powdery white sand complete the island’s charm.

Located on the easternmost edge of the Bicol region, Catanduanes carries a reputation as a perennial target for typhoons. But that perception isn’t entirely accurate. The province frequently appears in weather reports not because every storm barrels through the island, but because it hosts one of PAGASA’s key weather stations.

The PAGASA Weather Station in Bato, a critical radar facility equipped with a modern meteorological system, puts the province as a reference point whenever a typhoon enters the Philippine Area of Responsibility. Its strategic location makes it one of the country’s primary hubs for tracking typhoons — some of which, but not all, pass directly through the province.

The true origins of Catanduanes’ moniker, the “Happy Island,” remain something of a mystery. Some say it began as nothing more than a slogan printed on a T-shirt, one that resonated so deeply, it grew into an identity. But the nickname fits. Life here moves at a measured rhythm, shaped by the locals’ easygoing spirit and a deep connection to nature. Surrounded by abundant green landscapes, the people of Catanduanes embrace a lifestyle where work, family, and community intertwine seamlessly. This infectious optimism extends beyond the locals; travelers, too, are welcomed with the warmth of an island that lives up to its name.

A few visits to the so-called Happy Island, spanning both pre- and post-pandemic years, prompted reflections on my first trip while adding new layers of appreciation to my most recent experience. Each trip is a reminder of why Catanduanes remains one of my favorite places in the Philippines. And why not? Here, the countryside spills into quiet valleys, mountains stand watch over curving coastal roads, and random detours lead to postcard-worthy views.

The island is a keeper of natural wonders. Listing them all would take a 5,000-word article, but here are a few of my favorite spots to get you started.

For decades, Puraran Beach in the town of Baras has been a quiet sanctuary for hardcore surfers, from here and abroad, drawn by the powerful swells rolling in from the vast Pacific Ocean. But beyond the surfing, there is a deeper appeal; a relaxed atmosphere that seeps into the air, where time seems to slow in tempo with the currents.

Framed by striking rock formations and depths of blue, Puraran’s stretch of coastline offers more than just waves. A handful of modest, unobtrusive accommodations now blend seamlessly into the beach setting, welcoming visitors seeking a taste of the unhurried island life that has long defined this part of Catanduanes.

Fancy a short and satisfying hike? Binurong Point, also in Baras, offers a perfect escape. The short, muddy trail (if it rains the previous night) leads to a breathtaking finale, where rolling hills, sharp rock formations, and sheer cliffs meet the rhythmic crash of the Pacific Ocean’s waves. The view is already Instagrammable, but the vast expanse of lush, green grass only elevates the scene, transforming it into a visual symphony.

Wandering the hilltop, it’s easy to slip into a kind of trance, and lost in the moment. Before you know it, you might find yourself skipping barefooted over the soft grass.

With five or six viewpoints scattered across the hilltop, each one offers a new perspective, pulling you from one cinematic scene to the next. For the most mesmerizing experience, it’s best to visit at sunrise, when the sun’s golden light bathes the mountains in a soft glow, adding another layer of awe to this already extraordinary place.

As a child of the ’80s, I grew up watching The Blue Lagoon, that iconic Brooke Shields film that set the bar impossibly high for what a lagoon should be. In my mind, a lagoon had to be an idyllic, secluded paradise; no other word for it but beautiful.

The lagoons we explored in Catanduanes not only met but also surpassed my initial expectations. By definition, a lagoon is a body of water separated from a bigger one or formed naturally; in this case, sea water that spilled from the Pacific Ocean and overflowed into a natural pool encircled by coral stones and other rock formations.

In the town of Bato, there hides an intriguing formation known as Poseidon Rock, where nature has carved twin lagoons beneath its towering boulders. An archway, worn smooth by time, creates a tidal pool, its crystal-clear waters inviting both swimmers and snorkelers to soak underwater or do some short swimming laps. The first one is perched higher within the rock formation, while the second, only a few steps below, rests almost level with the sea, its waters blending seamlessly with the blue horizon.

In the town of Pandan, a double-dose of natural wonders unfold in succession. The Cagnipa Rolling Hills, a stretch of uneven terrain, invites a short, rewarding hike through fields where cows and carabaos roam freely, and the grass sways to the strong breeze. Each step brings forth a pretty panorama, leading to another lagoon.

After you’ve taken enough photographs of the hills, another short hike continues along a narrow trail, which opens to a set of man-made stone stairs descending to the Tuwad-Tuwadan Lagoon. Here, the image of the massive rock boulders reveals itself like a wound, an exposed cut where the tidal pool forms and widens into a tadpole-shaped one, its waters shielded from the ocean by jagged rock formations shaped over millennia by the relentless waves.

Barefoot across the soft, grassy knoll of Cagnipa, and later submerged in the lagoon's pristine waters, I found myself caught between awe and gratitude. To witness such unspoiled beauty, to be in the presence of nature’s quiet, enduring power, felt like a blessing, an invitation to pause and truly enjoy the gift of Mother Nature.

On the northern tip of Catanduanes lies the remote group of islands known as Palumbanes, located in the town of Caramoran. A motorboat ride of about an hour brings you to this peaceful retreat, where beach junkies can indulge in the turquoise waters and powdery white sand, all while enjoying vibrant coral reefs and abundant marine life in near solitude. Whether you choose to anchor at Parongpong, Tignob, or Calabagio Island—or visit all three—you’re guaranteed to satisfy your beach fix in the most serene of settings.

What sets Catanduanes apart, is the freedom of the open road. You don’t need a guidebook here; just pull over wherever you feel like it, and you’ll find beauty waiting.

Take, for example, our lunch stop at Paraiso ni Honesto. A modest resort, tucked away atop a hill, where the real treat wasn’t just the food. What made this stop unforgettable was the view—Pacific Ocean stretching out endlessly before us. Coupled with the cool gust that was just right, the kind that makes you want to close your eyes and drift off, you’ll really experience what island living is all about.

For a different kind of mountain views, we woke up early one morning and made our way to Summit View Park in Viga just before sunrise. There, we enjoyed a simple breakfast of latik, a popular kakanin in Catanduanes, paired with freshly brewed coffee, all while surrounded by a slowly-forming sea of clouds.

Catanduanes has earned its reputation as the Abaca Capital of the Philippines (and an official declaration by law, the Republic Act No. 11700), and it’s easy to see why. With over 13,000 farmers tending to more than 30,000 hectares of abaca plantations, the industry provides a vital livelihood for countless locals. Many of these farmers are also skilled in abaca weaving, producing a variety of products, from rags and baskets to chairs, carpets, table runners, and pouches. We had the chance to visit the Calolbon Abaca Crafts and Carpets Enterprise in the town of San Andres, where the tradition of abaca weaving is kept alive and puts the island on the map through the presence of its various creations in the market worldwide.

Completing this brief list of notable attractions in Catanduanes is the Maribina Falls, the only waterfall I've so far visited on the island. Our guide told us that there are more waterfalls waiting to be discovered when we return to the island. Situated in the municipality of Bato, the falls are easily accessible by car, with parking conveniently available on-site. The 6-meter-high waterfall flows into a series of crystal-clear pools, inviting visitors to take a refreshing swim.

No visit to Bato would be complete without a stop at the St. John the Baptist Church, the oldest church in Catanduanes, nearly 200 years old. Constructed on an elevated spot near the river, the church overlooks the town below, making it not only a historical church to say a prayer inside but also a nice place to sit and observe local life.

Catanduanes is a place that lingers long after you leave, with its slow pace, natural beauty, and genuine charm staying with you. Almost in every town or island, there’s always a chance for new adventures, an opportunity to connect with nature, and a time to pause.

The island simply invite exploration, while its warm-hearted locals embody the island's nickname, "the Happy Island." Whether you're here for the surfing, the serenity, or simply to wander, Catanduanes offers an unforgettable experience that will leave you wanting to return over and over again.