A somber atmosphere reigned over the town of Daraga when we went to visit the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Porteria. Like a set of eyes returning from a funeral, the skies hovering above were subdued, haunting, and sad. The jabbing wind blowing against my face reminded me of the aftermath of Typhoon Mina, which battered the province a few days before we arrived. Some of the dark clouds Mina brought remained and, like a jealous lover, cast a shadow over the landscape of Mayon Volcano, completely sheltering it from our sight.
The Historic Church of Daraga | Albay
The Church itself felt like an orphan without the accompanying Mayon by its side. However hauntingly missing the sight of the volcano was, the church itself—with its marvelous Baroque-inspired architecture mixed with Gothic elements—was a sight to behold. The white facade serves as a fervent representation of its rich and enamored history.
Born from the Ruins of Cagsawa
The church was originally built in 1773 by the Franciscans when Daraga was just a barrio of the town of Cagsawa. From then on, it served as second fiddle to the Church of Cagsawa until the violent eruption of Mayon occurred in 1814. The aftermath of the eruption left the old church of Cagsawa in ruins, with only its belfry left standing. Soon after grieving the loss of more than 2,000 people, the townspeople of Cagsawa relocated their church to Daraga upon the approval of the Governor General on October 4, 1814.
Daraga soon became a thriving town with a community composed of just under 20,000 residents. Being adjacent to Legazpi, it quickly became a center of communal activities and trade. Many well-to-do families of the era relocated to Daraga, likely drawn by the charms of living in a town that afforded them a marvelous and dramatic view of the Mayon Volcano.
Volcanic Stone & Baroque Facade
The facade was something I marveled at, taking a long time to stare at its intricate details. It is said to be made entirely from volcanic stones, carved intricately to present an assortment of images such as the four evangelists. The interior, however, was a different story. The altar and walls were bland and simply adorned in white. These were the results of what historians refer to as "unregulated reconstructions and modifications" of heritage sites. The numerous repairs done throughout the years have made the church lose some of its original "visage." Even so, its historical importance cannot be denied; in October 2007, the National Historical Institute recognized Daraga Church as one of the country's national cultural treasures.
Hilltop Reflections & Enduring Faith
My friend Tin and I wandered around the church for a while, occasionally taking a peek in the direction of Mayon Volcano, with dimmed hopes that the dark clouds covering it would finally dissolve into nothingness so the near-perfect cone shape of the peak would reveal its grandeur to us. But with the cold-like stares of a hard-to-get Juliet, it rejected any possibilities of an apparition.
Even so, holding an imaginary hot cup of coffee, I stared in the direction of Mayon and imagined the settings of a simple life in this town throughout the years. I can say that I truly felt the mystique and attraction of this church and its wonderful location nestled atop a hill. Even though the years have changed the world immensely, and the number of residents has multiplied three to tenfold, the church still remains the very foundation for the faithful in the town of Daraga.
It is said that "faith moves mountains," and when a volcano mowed down the old Cagsawa church, the faithful moved theirs and settled in this church to continue flourishing their own faith—which by now has endured through numerous generations. The original "visage" might have gotten lost, but what it stands for remains the same and unchanged, unhindered even through the most violent successions of eruptions from Mayon over the last 200 years.
