After days of bouncing from Puerto Princesa to the southernmost town of Bataraza and everywhere in between, our bodies were reaching exhaustion level. Long drives, rugged trails, and back-to-back adventures had taken their toll.

Enter The Funny Lion.

Tucked away in Puerto Princesa, this boutique retreat delivered exactly what we needed: comfy beds that slowed down our fatigue, an expansive property designed for unwinding, and amenities that hit all the right notes. Think expertly crafted cocktails, a menu that satisfies, and a pool that stretches out toward the sea offering a front-row seat to the famed Palawan sunrise.

After days on the road, Funny Lion wasn’t just a beach resort, it was a reset button.

As all good things must come to an end, so did our stay at Funny Lion. All too soon, we found ourselves packing our bags the next morning and hurrying off to Sabang. However, in our case, the end of one adventure marked the beginning of another good adventure, this time, to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park.

Having been fortunate enough to have visited the Underground River twice before, I wanted a different experience this time. So, I asked our tour coordinator, Ash, if I could skip the boat ride to the beachhead and instead trek to the river via the Jungle Trail.

An adventurous spirit herself, Ash agreed, and we set off on a two-hour trek through the forested mountains. Along the way, we encountered macaque monkeys, giant monitor lizards, and a stunning array of plant species. Guiding us was 49-year-old Alma Camaso, whose endless stories turned the hike into an experience of its own.

“You might say I’m a Marites,” Alma joked, using the local term for a neighborhood gossip. “But I just have too many stories to share. Once I start, I can’t stop.”

True to her words, Alma kept us entertained with tales that ranged from local legends to mountain survival tips. By the time we reached our destination, we realized her storytelling had done more than just educate us, it had made the trek feel effortless, making us forget about the time.

Once we’ve settled into our paddle boats, we begin our entrance into the dark cavern of the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River, where the world outside fades away, replaced by the eerie stillness of the ancient cave. Inside, the silence is unmissable and broken only by the rhythmic splash of the paddle and the occasional flutter of bats overhead.

Visitors now wear headsets that provide an informative, well-paced narration about the cave’s stunning limestone formations, from cathedral-like chambers to stalactites and stalagmites shaped like mythical creatures, religious figures, and even vegetables one would see in a market.

However, something feels different. On my first visit more than a decade ago, guides led the tour with humor, their witty anecdotes turning the pitch-dark voyage into an entertaining ride. As it turns out, the added noise of the guides and visitors’ conversation can cause disruption to the life span of the limestone formations; thus, the change to the quieter headsets.

Despite visiting the Underground River for the third time, it never gets old. Each corner, illuminated by our guide, still gives me goosebumps, as the details of every limestone formation seem to tell a story dating back thousands of years. Knowing that the section open to tourists barely scratches the surface of the entire underground river, it only adds to the intrigue and mystery of what lies ahead in the farther sections, accessible only to scientists, geologists, and archaeologists.

Fresh off our underground river visit, we slide onto a narrow boat, slicing through the still waters of Sabang Mangrove Forest. It’s here that we witness something remarkable, a community-based tourism done right.

“We always attend training whenever we can,” says Alfie Tejada, our guide, when I tell him he’s a gifted tour guide. In his late 30s but already a veteran, Tejada has spent 13 years navigating these maze of waterways, leading visitors through this 47-hectare sanctuary near Palawan’s famous Underground River.

“This river isn’t connected to the Underground River,” he clarifies early on. Over the next 30 minutes, Tejada delivers a masterclass on mangrove ecosystems; how they shield coastlines, shelter marine life, and fuel biodiversity. “Palawan makes up one-fifth of the Philippines' mangrove area,” he notes, a claim backed by research: nearly 60,000 hectares of mangroves is found here in Palawan, a vital chunk of the country’s 300,000-hectare total.

As he points out various species of mangroves including the fruit bearing trees, he shares one story. “When we started guiding here, we saw the macaque monkeys feasting on a fruit from one of the trees,” he recalls. Curious, he and his colleagues decided to try it themselves. He grimaces at the memory. "It tasted bad. We said to ourselves, let’s leave that fruit to the monkeys."

Throughout the ride, Tejada was also able to identify bird species, a flash of blue signals a kingfisher, while a heron according to him, just usually land and hops through the shallows. "Birdwatchers also like coming here," he adds. "They start very early, before 7am".

Before we even set off, Tejada had spoken proudly of the park’s management. “This is a Community-Based Tourism project,” he explains. “We all have a role in protecting this place.”

What I had thought would be a side trip before heading to El Nido turned into something else entirely, an immersion into the quiet pulse of Palawan’s mangrove forests. And at its heart stands Alfie Tejada and his fellow tour guides, storytellers, and guardians of the mangrove forest.

Almost nearing the final stretch of our coverage trip from Southern Palawan to Puerto Princesa before heading to El Nido and Coron, we made a lunch stop at Cacaoyan Forest Park Restaurant.

At Cacaoyan Forest Park Restaurant, rustic charm intertwines with artistry, as framed works by local artists line the wooden walls, their colors deepened by the soft forest light. The garden, wild and lush, is adorned with more installation artworks and features a century-old Dao tree at its center, one that I attempted to hug, only managing to cover a mere sixth of its width.

For the daring, there's the unique experience of tasting Tamilok—a worm-like, shell-less clam that weaves its way into mangrove trunks. Slimy on the tongue yet truly unforgettable, which to say, how I would also describe our Palawan trip so far at this point.

Fresh from nearly a week traveling from Puerto Princesa to Aborlan and back, we hit the road for more island hopping in the coastal town of El Nido, a place I’ve visited several times but still couldn’t get enough of. Each visit feels increasingly like an exploration of the best places to stay. This time, it did not disappoint: the property that would be our temporary home for a few days offered glimpses of a wonderful escape, something taken from the setting of the White Lotus series, as I had seen on Google.

By the time we arrived and were fetched by Lihim El Nido’s speedboat for a ten-minute cruise from town, I felt thankful to have finally caught sight of it.

In a corner of El Nido, Palawan, where jade waters meet emerald forest and limestone cliffs rise like mythological guards, lies Lihim Resorts, a property that turns secrecy into an art form. Lihim means “secret” in Filipino, and from the moment you glimpse its hidden villas placed between rocky and forested slopes surrounded by sweeping sea views, you understand why this is a place that doesn’t broadcast itself but rather reveals its features slowly, beautifully, and calculatedly.

The villas at Lihim are architectural poems to understated elegance: low-profile structures woven into the landscape, with thoughtful use of natural materials and expansive glass that frames views of the forest or the bay’s horizon. Each villa dishes a sense of own secret hideaway; spacious, meticulously appointed, and made for lingering moments of contemplation.

One of the defining features you’ll notice when roaming around Lihim whether it’s a during sunrise, morning, sunny afternoon or sunset, the views can be framed beautifully under tropical foliage or a dusk setting shot from the infinity pool. All around you is how the natural palette of Palawan shapes the visual identity of the property. Sunlit greens, deep ocean blues, and warm wood textures aren’t merely aesthetic choices; they tell a story of a resort that integrates design with environment.

At Lihim, luxury isn’t flashy; it’s thoughtfully crafted. Personal butler service greets you from the start, ensuring every need is met with Filipino warmth and precision. A Viber group chat set up by the staff gives the impression that you have a circle of friends ready to answer anything, just a message away. From private check-ins that whisk you straight to your villa to curated island tours and bespoke dining experiences, every interaction is carefully tailored and considerate.

Dining here is a journey in itself. Spots like Gana and Henri’s offer refined Filipino and international fare accompanied by panoramic views, especially from the floor-to-ceiling glass windows of Henri’s, whether it’s breakfast bathed in dawn light or evening drinks on a breezy terrace.

I particularly enjoyed our dining experience at Henri’s, a bit removed from the main property, perched atop a hill. A 4x4 ride from Lihim takes you on a seven-minute drive upward. Henri’s, a multi-story structure, frames sweeping ocean views of El Nido, which perfectly complement a refined dining experience.

Since opening in March 2023, it has earned acclaim in Philippine gastronomy, with a menu curated by Lihim’s culinary team, led by Chef RJ Garcia, showcasing expertly crafted dishes made from Palawan’s freshest seafood and locally sourced ingredients.

Wellness is another pillar of the Lihim experience. Panari Spa, hidden among the greenery, promises restorative treatments that blend traditional techniques with modern massage therapy. Whether you indulge in a massage overlooking the forest or practice sunrise yoga with the bay at your feet, the sense of calm here is physical, mental, and visceral.

But perhaps the secret of Lihim lies in the way it feels: a place that doesn’t shout for attention but invites reflection, connection, and delight in the small, moving details. It’s where world-class hospitality meets untouched natural beauty. It is definitely a sanctuary for travelers who understand that the finest getaway experiences often begin in well thought-out places.