Thrice in the past, spread over a decade, I found myself in Baler always tugging a surfboard. Despite failing to achieve consistent long rides over the waves, I recognized the cherished vibe reigning in this seaside town. There is an inexplicable, vibrant sub-culture that continues to attract an expanding list of my friends and acquaintances to re-root themselves among the surfing community here.
Lakbay Norte 8 | Baler Travel Guide without the Surf Board
Baler Quick Facts
Weekend road trips, History lovers, Nature lovers, Surfers, Families
3 Days / 2 Nights
November–May
Clark International Airport (or Manila drive)
5–6 hours from Manila
Ditumabo Falls, Diguisit Rock Formations, Museo de Baler, Dicasalarin Cove, Sabang Beach
- Genesis Bus (Cubao/Pasay)
- JoyBus Premium Direct
- Private Vehicle via TPLEX & Pantabangan Road
Many decades removed from the aftermath of the laborious shooting of Apocalypse Now—which gave birth to the country’s arguably first surfing location when the film crew left their surfboards behind—Baler has become synonymous with the sport of surfing. While the film’s menacing character Colonel Kilgore referred to the Viet Cong as "Charlie don’t surf," in real-world Baler, everybody surfs.
Easily, one can conclude that one cannot enjoy Baler without surfing. That’s what I thought too. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Because on my fourth time in Baler as part of that year’s Lakbay Norte, I got to experience Baler sans a surfboard (almost) and had a wonderful time doing it.
Baler Heritage Walk
Before Francis Ford Coppola took his film’s Captain Willard onto the soil of Baler to shoot scenes for his iconic Vietnam War film, Baler was the setting of a real-life battle known as the "Siege of Baler." The standoff lasted three hundred thirty-seven days after Filipino revolutionaries first surrounded and laid siege to Spanish troops holed up inside San Luis Obispo de Tolosa Church. It only culminated when Spain relinquished the Philippines to the United States in December 1898.
Today, this church—situated where the original seventeenth-century church stood—serves as the town’s heritage centerpiece. A few paces outside, you can reach the Doña Aurora Aragon Quezon House. Named after the former Philippine First Lady and wife of President Manuel L. Quezon (who was assassinated in 1949), despite being a replica of the original house where young Aurora grew up, it stores valuable historical items such as vintage photographs and the couple’s book collection.
A few steps away is the Museo de Baler. Highlighted by a bronze statue of Manuel L. Quezon in a seated posture—said to be the only one of its kind in the Philippines—the museum houses notable items such as World War II newspaper clippings, old photographs, artworks, archaeological finds, and historical documents.
Wonderful Nature Rush
Various river tributaries ebb from the lush Sierra Madre Mountains leading to the Pacific Ocean. This orderly process of nature gives birth to stunning cascades and quaint rivers perfect for nature lovers and solitude-seeking travelers.
One such nature attraction is the fifty-meter-high Ditumabo Falls, also known as "Mother Falls." It requires a half-hour hike over an easy trail knifing through the mountain parallel to the massive pipes of a hydraulic plant. The waterfall’s wide basin, surrounded by massive boulders, is perfect for a refreshing dip—especially after a surfing session.
Following the highway toward the east leads you to the stunning rock formations of the Lukso-lukso islets along the coast of Diguisit Beach. The swell-chiseled tips of the rock formations also serve as a wonderful foreground for sunrises rising over the Pacific Ocean. Just behind one of the islets is a natural pool that appears during low tide. Other places you can visit along the way include Diguisit Falls, Ermita Hill—where you can view the entirety of Sabang Beach—and a century-old Balete Tree.
Isolated Beach Coves
A number of sea voyage outfitters like Seasta Beach Resort offer boat excursions further to the southeastern part of Baler, where numerous remote bays can be found. Picturesque panoramic views of the Dimadimalangat Rock Formations and the Anyao Islets serve as a beautiful precursor to the secluded Dicasalarin Cove. Regale at the sight of azure waters blending magnificently with lush green peaks crowned by an old lighthouse and a weather station.
Farther northeast from Baler, the distant coves of Dipaculao and Casiguran provide off-the-beaten-path options for travelers desiring a more sheltered beach destination.
Thrilling Inflatable Rides
If you miss the body movement generated by surfing and yearn for some splash-heavy water action, don’t miss the ocean-based activities offered by Buoyancy Water Sports. They provide speedboat-towed inflatable rides ranging from the chill Banana Boat to the mildly wild UFO Couch—which can seat up to eight people—and the electrifying Flying Fish.
Surf’s Up, Finally!
Of course, almost nobody leaves Baler without picking up a board. After our Lakbay Norte group's euphoric high from immersing in Baler's great outdoors settled down, the lure of the waves and the feeling of getting stoked remained too strong to pass up. There is no better way to bookend a trip to Baler than riding the waves and letting Colonel Kilgore know that, unlike Charlie, "every Juan can surf."
Another must-do in Baler is going on a food tour—but that's a story for another article.
This article was written after the author participated in Lakbay Norte 8, a media tour organized by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB), a non-stock, non-profit organization spearheaded by the NLEX Corporation, builder and concessionaire of the North Luzon Expressway.
All photos courtesy of Mac Dillera.
