Despite witnessing Poblacion's transformation from a seedy quarter to an exciting neighborhood, I mostly visited to get drunk and dine with friends. So when I heard that Meaningful Travels PH was organizing a Poblacion Makati Discovery Tour, I jumped at the chance to discover the neighborhood's other hidden gems without the constraints of inebriation.
Exploring Poblacion in a Sober Mood | Makati
A Thriving Artist Community
"A lot of artists now live here," Ann, our guide and operator of Meaningful Travels PH, told our group. Looking around, I noticed that the Poblacion neighborhood is changing. The secretive establishments where old men would select women from aquarium-like glass-capsuled rooms to serve as escorts for the night are long gone. According to legend, the Z Boutique Hostel is built on the site of the infamous brothel Don Pedro Mansion. Today, it is a popular hostel for mostly backpackers from all over the world, doubling as a vibrant cultural melting pot.
While there is still a strip of adult cabarets along P. Burgos Street, the surrounding area is now teeming with creative spaces like art galleries, quaint cafes and restaurants, speakeasy bars, and even Filipiniana clothing stores.
Poblacion Hackathon Tour: Heritage Stops
Our tour started at our meeting place at Plaza Casa Hacienda Park. This small park by the banks of the Pasig River hides a history dating back to the eighteenth century. A historical marker suggests that the name "Makati" was derived from a local who responded to then-Spanish Governor-General Don Miguel de Legazpi's inquiry about the location with "Makati na, Kumakati na," referring to the ebbing tide of the river.
We then went across the street to the Museo ng Makati. The museum, distinguished by its large Capiz-shell window shutters, served as Makati's town hall from its construction in 1918 until 1961. It now houses historical Makati artifacts, various dioramas, and a "Living Exhibit" gallery with artworks from all over the country.
Our next stop took us to Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral. Built by the Jesuits in 1620, it is one of the oldest churches in Metro Manila. While the original structure sustained damage during the failed British invasion of Manila in 1762, the facade retains its beautiful Baroque architecture. Inside, Baroque-Rococo-styled carved altarpieces adorn the interior.
Across the church is the former location of the Pedro de Macati Cemetery—an eighteenth-century burial site—that is now Plaza Cristo Rey. At the time of our visit, there was a small event being held at the plaza. As I watched the locals partake in a festive revelry, I couldn’t help but imagine how the lively vibe contrasted with the mournful setting it used to have as one of Metro Manila’s oldest cemeteries.
Rajo Laurel’s House of Laurel
History and heritage checked. Now for some fashion and art. Walking through Poblacion's other hidden alleyways, we came across several interesting hole-in-the-wall establishments, such as Holy Carabao, a small organic grocery shop. Ann also directed us to the Poblacion market space, where visitors can source high-quality tailored suits and dresses.
After a few strides entering a maze of streets, we came across a clothing shop owned and named after one of the country’s finest fashion designers: Rajo Laurel. Inside is a fashion haven that makes every style enthusiast swoon.
Pineapple Lab and Glorious Dias
The eccentric art space and clothing store Pineapple Lab and Glorious Dias came as our next destination. Founded by local designer Jordinand Aguillon, Pineapple Lab serves as a platform for local artists to showcase their works and functions as a gallery store; a backdoor leads to a secret lounge where poetry readings and performance art are held on select nights. Meanwhile, the neighboring Glorious Dias (named after 1969 Miss Universe Gloria Diaz) sells vintage Filipiniana silk tops and barongs. Aguillon even showed us a Barong Tagalog from the 1950s which they redesigned to match current fashion styles while retaining its nostalgic appearance.
The space of Glorious Dias makes both classic collectors and Gen Z fashionistas swoon over its collection of vintage dresses and tops made from pineapple fibers and silks.
Artisan drinks, vegan food, and the Annex House
The atmosphere around Poblacion begins to buzz as night falls. Early diners can be seen walking the sidewalks in search of a sumptuous restaurant or a refreshing hole-in-the-wall, both of which are plentiful in Poblacion. I had been to several restaurants and bars here before—including the craft beer haven Alamat Filipino Pub, Tambai, Kite, and El Chupacabra, to name a few—so Ann's announcement that we would be stopping by Agimat Foraging Bar & Kitchen piqued my interest even more.
After climbing a flight of stairs to the second floor, I instantly found the place oddly beautiful. The establishment features a live Balete tree protruding through the middle of the bar, which is built completely around it amidst charming wooden fixtures and rustic furniture. It turns out Agimat draws its inspiration from the Filipino folklore of the agimat (amulet), and its artisan refreshments are inspired by these local supernatural tales.
A mini-performance by the bartenders ensued—a presentation ritual that accompanies every serving of Agimat's signature cocktail, the "Ritual ng Agimat." Other unique drinks on the menu include "Anting-anting ni Malvar," "Gayuma ng Paraiso," and "Agimat ng Sawi." Agimat also serves a medley of Filipino cuisine prepared with a modern twist.
A short walk away are the Annex House and The Ruins, located right next to each other. These are repurposed two-story heritage houses transformed into dynamic spaces that host live DJ sets on most nights. During the day, the space doubles as an artist co-working hub where unfinished canvases are displayed; if you are lucky, you can even catch local artists working on their pieces. There is also a small event space where cultural talks are regularly held.
Wrapping up our fascinating Poblacion Discovery Tour was a healthy feast at Cosmic Vegan Restaurant. This was my second time dining here, and I still swear they serve some of the best kare-kare around—a completely plant-based version. We ordered the vegan iterations of isaw, caldereta, a specialty pasta, and a few other dishes. After all that walking and learning additional historical details about the neighborhood of Poblacion, we finished our dinner with absolute gusto.
About Meaningful Travels PH
Meaningful Travels PH is a social enterprise specializing in organizing cultural and community immersion trips all over the Philippines. Aside from the Poblacion Discovery Tours, they also operate a Marikina walk and a Quiapo Muslim Town and Culture Tour. They also organize longer journeys to Batanes, Batad, Lake Sebu, Bukidnon, and beyond.
Poblacion Cultural Walk Outline
The Photos with * are courtesy of Meaningful Travels PH
