Swimming with the Butandings Plus More Fun in Sorsogon

Whenever one thought of Sorsogon, the gentle giant whale sharks of Donsol first came to mind. However, upon further exploration, one would learn that the province offered a plethora of delights that included beautiful beaches, heritage towns, and other natural gems comprising waterfalls, quaint lakes, firefly-laden rivers, and sleepy volcanoes. From the rich flora and fauna, colorful culture and traditions, and platefuls of delicious local cuisine to everything that ticked every intrepid traveler's checklist, it was no wonder each time a visitor departed Sorsogon, heaps of memorable experiences were left behind.

Exciting Bicol / Philippines

Sorsogon: Beyond the Gentle Giants

By Marky Ramone Go July 2022

Sorsogon at a Glance

Destination: Sorsogon Province, Bicol Region, Luzon, Philippines
Known For: Donsol Whale Sharks (Butanding), Matnog Pink Sand Beaches, Juban Ancestral Houses, Bulusan Eco-Trails
Best For: Wildlife Enthusiasts, Heritage Scholars, Backpacker Trekkers, Culinary Explorers
Recommended Stay: Three to Four Days
Best Time to Visit: November to May (Whale Shark Season & Dry Window)
Primary Transit Node: Bicol International Airport (DRP) / Matnog Ferry Terminal
Local Transport: Public Jeeps, Tricycles, Outrigger Motorized Bancas
Currency: Philippine Peso (PHP)
Language: Bikol Sorsogon, Tagalog, English
Channeling Chris McCandless at Pili Haven farm and accommodation in Irosin Sorsogon
Channeling Chris McCandless at Pili Haven - a farm and accommodation property in Irosin, Sorsogon

The province's things-to-do list was full of exciting adventures. Swimming with the butandings in Donsol introduced visitors to the mesmerizing world of the underwater, especially where one could experience the thrill of chasing the gentle giants of Sorsogon.

The Butanding Lookout crew searching for whale sharks on an outrigger boat in Donsol
The Butanding Lookout crew

Unfortunately for me, I wasn’t fast enough on my fins to catch up with them. I saw a whale shark from our boat for a moment or two, but lost sight of it when we dove into the water because they swam fast, though not so furiously; fellow travel writers from the other boat were lucky enough to swim with a playful baby whale shark.

The white sandy beaches lapped with turquoise-colored waters in Matnog lured beachgoers to a day of beach fixes and chilling at the long shores of the pinkish Subic Beach on Calintaan Island. It was also here where a variety of sea creatures could be seen up close at the Juag Fish Sanctuary.

Swimming with the Butandings in Donsol Sorsogon marine wildlife encounters
Photo credit: Ferdz Decena of En Route
Subic Beach in Matnog Sorsogon panoramic pink sand beach coastline
The sweeping coastal frame of Subic Beach in Matnog

Heritage & History

For heritage and history enthusiasts, the Spanish colonial houses in Juban provided a dash of throwback vibes to a simpler life more than a century ago. Lined up charmingly on a short part of the Maharlika Highway were four bahay na bato (stone houses) that were still immaculately preserved. The foundations of these houses, built way back in the 1890s, were made of stone bricks, upon which the wooden second floors stood.

One of the houses was even converted into a bed and breakfast called "Casa Feliz," where guests could stay for only two hundred pesos per bed per night. These houses came under threat of demolition a couple of years ago due to a planned road widening project. Thankfully, an online petition managed to halt it. A few towns away in Barcelona, additional history could be found in the ruins of the old Spanish tribunal or Gobernadorcillo house.

Casa Feliz in Juban Sorsogon colonial era stone architecture house facade
Casa Feliz in Juban Sorsogon
Museo Sorsogon building exterior heritage museum architecture
The imposing front facade of Museo Sorsogon

But wait, there was more history to uncover at Museo Sorsogon. The site of a former provincial jail and justice hall, it was transformed by the provincial government into a museum in 2019. Retaining its original early 1900s architecture, the museum featured ten galleries showcasing historical items related to the province of Sorsogon that were curated by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) and the Sorsogon Provincial Tourism, Culture and Arts Office.

Museo Sorsogon Inside interior prison cell gallery layout
Inside the restored corridors of Museo Sorsogon

It also showcased artworks done by former inmates, such as the painting of the Lady of Justice found on the second floor, and a mural of revolutionary hero Che Guevara. The museum also converted the old exercise yard of prisoners into an amphitheater.

Siama Hotel in Sorsogon luxury eco resort boutique sanctuary lounge
Where to Stay in Sorsogon? Check out Siama Hotel. It's a nature-inspired showroom for its owner, designer Milo Naval's aesthetic creations

Coastal & Nature Gems

For the wave-riding buccaneers, the swell they were seeking could be found on the waters of Rizal Beach in Gubat town. This underrated surfing spot facing the Pacific Ocean was then becoming a favorite even among surfers from different parts of the globe.

Juag Fish Sanctuary Sorsogon lagoon preserve aerial overview
Juag Fish Sanctuary as viewed from the air. Photo by Milet of Project Gora

Kambal Busay Falls in Bulusan, Sorsogon had me stripping down to my boxer shorts for a therapeutic dip while the others were busy hiking to the other falls because it totally exceeded my expectations. Another best thing about this was the waterfalls' five-minute accessibility from Zoe's Resort & Eco Adventure Park. The park had done a fine job keeping the place in great condition by minimizing man-made structures and managing visitors' capacity.

Kambal Busay falls in Bulusan Sorsogon deep forest pool stream
Kambal Busay Falls

Snacking on pili nuts while enjoying a tranquil cruise over the greenish waters of the Buhatan River was an absolute treat. A community-led cooperative group, organized by the late Gina Lopez in 2014, managed this eco-adventure tour that took visitors along a narrow tributary flanked by mangrove forests, snaking its way until it met the waters of Sorsogon Bay. A local musician serenaded tourists on the floating cabanas with acoustic melodies accompanied by the background chirping hymns of several bird species.

Lake Bulusan Sorsogon tranquil emerald waters volcano mirror reflection
The mirror-like surface of Lake Bulusan nestled against the volcanic foothills

One could not leave Sorsogon without experiencing the tranquility of Lake Bulusan. Kayaking in the middle of the lake with only the chirruping sounds of nature provided the perfect moment to listen to one's own thoughts. Given that there was no existing PHIVOLCS alert level, a trek to the Bulusan Volcano might have been in order for mountaineers on the lookout for a forested peak to conquer, as well as spotting numerous colorful bird species.

Lake Bulusan Sorsogon Explore travelers paddling kayak on mountain lagoon
Kayaking across the serene mountain waters of Bulusan

All of these and more could be experienced in Sorsogon. The Bicol region wasn’t hashtagged #ExcitingBicol for nothing because the provinces it covered, such as Sorsogon, fully lived up to their billing—offering travelers nothing but exhilarating and pleasant destinations.

🗓️ Suggested Three-Day Sorsogon Itinerary

Day One — Marine Giants & Heritage Walks

Join an early morning outrigger boat interaction to spot Donsol whale sharks / Travel overland to the highway corridors of Juban to map out the 1890s bahay na bato structures / Conclude with a local dinner at Casa Feliz

Day Two — Pink Sands & Historical Cells

Take a morning boat excursion around Matnog to swim along the pinkish shores of Subic Beach / Feed native species inside the Juag Fish Sanctuary loops / Return to town for a guided gallery walk through Museo Sorsogon

Day Three — Volcanic Lakes & Mangrove Cruises

Paddle a kayak across the mirror pools of Lake Bulusan / Hike the five-minute trail to Kambal Busay Falls inside Zoe's Resort Park / Cap off the Bicol assignment with a sunset acoustic musical cruise down the Buhatan River

Top Attractions Checklist

✓ Donsol Whale Shark Interactions
✓ Pinkish Subic Beach Core
✓ Juag Fish Sanctuary Enclosure
✓ Juban Heritage Stone Houses
✓ Museo Sorsogon Galleries
✓ Rizal Beach Surfing Swells
✓ Kambal Busay Twin Cascades
✓ Buhatan River Eco-Cruise
✓ Lake Bulusan Volcanic Lagoon

📸 Best Photo Spots

• The massive brick arches inside the halls of Museo Sorsogon
• Sunrise reflections mirroring Mount Bulusan across the lake
• Gilded Capiz shell windows framing the historic homes of Juban
• Vibrant turquoise waters meeting the pastel shores of Subic Beach
• Low-exposure framing captures from the pool of Kambal Busay Falls

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the official whale shark season in Donsol?
While sightings happen across a wider window, the peak interactive frame runs from November through May, when the nutrient-rich currents of the mouth of Sorsogon pass attract the migratory gentle giants reliably.
Is Subic Beach in Matnog actually pink?
Yes. The shoreline acquires its distinct pastel-pink coloration from fragments of crushed red organ-pipe corals mixed seamlessly with the native powdery white sand parameters.
How many days does one need to complete a comprehensive Sorsogon trail?
A window of three to four days provides the perfect baseline runtime to explore the marine life sanctuaries, execute volcanic nature hikes, and logging the historical colonial architecture complexes completely.
Can non-surfers enjoy the beaches in Gubat town?
Certainly. While Rizal Beach is an exceptional, underrated haven for wave riders, the broad sandy expanse and breezy line of native trees make it equally ideal for casual relaxation and seaside strolls.

Sorsogon Adventure Blueprint

Heritage Base Bespoke 1890s bahay na bato blocks preserved natively along Juban's highway corridors
Exhibition Infrastructure Museo Sorsogon, hosting ten historically rich galleries inside a former early 1900s provincial jail
Eco Trail Access Kambal Busay Falls, keeping a pristine five-minute walking path from Zoe's Resort Park gates
Community Legacy Buhatan River cooperative cruise, organized in 2014 to safeguard native mangrove networks
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