Discovering Caraga’s Bounteous Nature Sights and Fascinating Culture| Davao Oriental

Explore Caraga, Davao Oriental: a municipality named after the "spirited person." Home to Pusan Point—the Philippines' earliest sunrise—over 40 waterfalls like Kyabatangan and Kapuka, and the rich heritage of the Mandaya Ethnic Group.
Mindanao / Davao Oriental

Discovering Caraga’s Bounteous Nature Sights and Fascinating Culture

By Marky Ramone Go March 2024

When I signed up for this trip, I expected to explore the Caraga region that includes the five provinces of the Sur and Norte parts of Surigao and Agusan, as well as Dinagat Island. Little did I know that in the province of Davao Oriental, there is a municipality also called Caraga that claims its name from the word kalagan, which in native language refers to a "spirited person.”

Joan Beach Resort Caraga
A typical shoreline in Caraga.

Having my geographical assumptions about our destination proven wrong has never made me gladder. I began to experience the unparalleled sense of anticipation I always feel whenever I visit a new destination as we set out on a long road trip from Davao City. In this case, to a quaint town where the easternmost tip of the country is also located, as well as a plethora of breathtaking natural landscapes and diverse customs and traditions.

Before Sunrise

After a relaxed first day highlighted by gorging on local cuisine, we woke up extra early the next morning to witness the day’s earliest sunrise in the country. Facing the Pacific Ocean, a jagged stretch of rocky cliff called Pusan Point is where one can witness the first daybreak in the Philippines.

Pusan Point Caraga
On a clear day, the country's first sunrise can be seen here

The Pusan Point marks the easternmost part of the Philippines and where the sun rises at its earliest in the country. During the morning of January 1, 2000, many people gathered here to witness the first sunrise of the millennium. A lighthouse, a sundial, an ampitheater and a cross currently rises amidst the steep cliffs where also the waves of the Pacific Ocean first crashes into the Philippines.

Chasing Waterfalls

A local tourism official told us that there is currently more than 40 documented waterfalls found in Caraga and more are still being explored. With only five days of exploring Caraga we were fortunate to have visited at least three waterfalls.

Kyabatangan Falls Caraga
Staring at the majestic Kyabatangan Waterfalls.

The first one, the multi-tiered Kyabatangan Falls, which spills into a 25–30-foot drop to a big and inviting pool, made the bumpy ride going here worthwhile. While the phrase “hidden gem” already make people doubt it every time its mentioned, this waterfall truly exemplifies what it means because of its secluded setting and absorbing appearance like something out of a fairy-tale book.

Agosais Falls Caraga
Agosais Falls

Located on the same road leading to Kyabatangan Falls, the much taller and more isolated Agosais Falls can be seen plunging its clear waters down the mountainside, encircled by towering trees, appearing more majestic in the embrace of Mother Nature.

Kapuka Falls Caraga
Moments before taking a refreshing dip at Kapuka Falls.

We set out on foot the following morning to reach Kapuka Falls, which is almost 160 feet tall. The path was difficult, with hazards such as a slick descent pathway, crawling over stones, and fording a river with a shallow depth but strong current that cuts through the barangay of Lamiawan. Despite my missteps, I finally reached the plunge pool of Kapuka Falls, where I was able to take in the breathtaking scenery and cool off in its Gatorade blue-colored waters.

Chill and Surf

Since the municipality of Caraga is edged by a long shoreline facing the Pacific Ocean, it shouldn’t come as no surprise to discover several surfing spots in Caraga. The main one is found on the long stretch of San Luis Beach which supplies endless swells for both seasoned and beginner surfers. The powdery gray sands also makes it an ideal beach to bum around and swim as well.

San Luis Surfing Beach
Surfers gather on the line-up

Not far away, there are a few other beaches worth seeing. The Pantad Tide Pool, south of Caraga, conceals a series of natural pools that are visible during low tide. It is preferable to visit around low tide so that you can sink into the natural pool whenever the splashing waves pulls back to the ocean.

Mabiga beach has a couple of quaint resorts, Villa Mabiga and Elah Moana, where one can relax under a tree or in a hammock and engage one of its owners, an irrepressible New Zealander who boasts of amazing scuba diving stories.

Mabiga Beach Caraga
The long stretch of Mabiga Beach
Batinao's Haven
Batinao's Haven, a campground river ideal for a soothing dip

A Dose of Local Culture

Amidst the many wonderful great outdoor attractions in Caraga, the municipality is proud of its local history and culture. For history enthusiasts, one shouldn't miss the San Salvador Del Mundo Parish Church. Built by the Jesuits in 1884 from stones and wood, it is the oldest Catholic church in Mindanao today.

San Salvador del Mundo Church
The San Salvador Del Mundo Parish Church

Inside, are a number of items dating back centuries, including the Church's bell, which was cast in 1802, the old Baptismal registry, and the original statue of San Isidro Labrador, the town's patron saint. The Caraga Elementary School is another place of interest, being one of the few remaining intact Gabaldon schools in the Philippines.

Caraga Gabaldon School
The distinct Architecture of a Gabaldon School at Caraga Elementary School

To learn more about the culture and traditions of Caraga, better pay a visit to the community of the Mandaya Ethnic Group in Sitio Sangab, their ancestral domain. One of the eleven Indigenous Peoples' communities in the Davao Region, the Mandaya are known as "inhabitants of the upland."

Mandaya Dagmay Weaving
A Mandaya young woman demonstrates the Dagmay weaving process

The Mandaya's vibrant Dagmay cloth and elaborate embroidery are symbols of their rich cultural heritage. Led by their young chieftain Maigen Christine Banugan, the community also educates visitors on cultural sensitivity.

Mandaya Community Workshop
Members of the Mandaya Community during a Community Based Workshop conducted by the TPB

After you’ve seen the community, the Mandaya Educational Research on Heritage beside Colegio de Caraga should be next. It is a modest museum that preserves historical relics, musical instruments, and traditional attire.

Dagmay Fabric
Wonderful Dagmay cloth at the Mandaya community in Sitio Sangab
Mandaya Woman Caraga
One of the Mandaya women who participated in the TPB CBT workshop.

Having spent many days winding through Caraga's picturesque highways, rugged roads, and hiking trails, I became well-acquainted with the region's breathtaking natural scenery and learned a great deal about the homegrown culture.

Mandaya Kids at Pusan Point
Young members of the Mandaya community who accompanied us to Pusan Point.
This article first appeared on the print and online issue of BusinessMirror.
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