Already positioned on top of my longboard, I looked behind me and saw a cluster of incoming swells. With my heart racing, I rapidly paddled my hands to gear up for my impending stoke. The waves aggressively pushed me forward, and as I raised my body against my two arms to confidently stand on my board, I heard a sudden pop in my lower right chest. I lost my balance entirely, and the swirling of the swell—closely resembling the chaotic insides of a washing machine—swallowed me yet again.