After four extended visits, each lasting nearly a month, it's fair to say that India has carved out a space in my wanderlust. Friends often ask me why. Their curiosity is usually marked with skepticism, sometimes even concern. “What do you like about India?” they ask with bafflement. The question is often followed by a familiar refrain, shaped by viral TikTok clips of dirty street food pantries: “Isn’t it dirty?”

A landmark that need no introduction. "A teardrop on the cheek of time" wrote Rabindranath Tagore