Kalinga’s Awichon Cultural Village is an accommodation that defines the very meaning of a homestay stripped of resort amenities yet filled with the comforts of home, and enriched with a heritage character, as it was built by the cultural bearers of Kalinga.

Despite years spent crisscrossing the Philippine archipelago, a few places have continued to elude me. Chief among them: the mountain village of Buscalan in Kalinga, home to Apo Whang-Od, centenarian, cultural icon, and said to be the oldest traditional mambabatok (Kalinga traditional artist) of her generation. Using a thorn, soot, and indigenous ink, she etches ancestral symbols into skin, each mark a living archive of identity and cultural symbol.