Built between 1605 and 1626 upon the command of Vir Singh Deo to commemorate Mughal Emperor Jahangir's first visit to Orchha (father of Shah Jahan, the architect of the Taj Mahal), Jahangir Mahal is considered one of the best representations of classic Indo-Islamic architecture. Marvelous sculptures, hanging balconies, delicate trelliswork, chhatris, and topped domes are all examples of the building's exceptional architectural brilliance.

From where I sat on a balcony of a hilltop hotel, I could see the many monuments built during the era of the Bundelas—a Rajput clan of Central India who lorded over this part of Madhya Pradesh beginning in the sixteenth century. In that moment, I savored the solemnity of finding myself some quiet time in between our busy media tour. Trailing my eyes from the top of an opposite hill into the rows of houses below, I became perplexed at the sight of jam-packed edifices below.

As I was letting every second of being awed linger gratifyingly, I fixated my thoughts on the massive walls of Gwalior Fort. I started wondering about the stories of resilient kingdoms and bloody battles they concealed. Like peeling off layers of paint, I surveyed the colossal architectural grandeur of the eighth-century structure before me and briefly imagined being transported in time.

I was roused from my sleep as soon as I felt our minibus rolling into a bumpy off-road trail. I opened my eyes to a view of the Betwa River and its murky waters. From the corner of my eye, I caught a glimpse of towering structures with arresting-looking tips.

I was feeling benumbed as I stared out the window of the bus and saw the sky reddened with strokes of sunrise. “Dawning of a new day,” I told myself, and instantly, a burst of excitement shot up my body as this meant a new opportunity to explore. It was the first morning of the Madhya Pradesh Travel Mart which I was invited to cover. Before the event started, the organizers took our group of travel writers for a short excursion to the city’s landmark known as the ‘Crown among Mosques’—the biggest mosque in India, the Taj-ul-Masajid.

It took me almost a day of traveling—including a long layover in Kuala Lumpur—before I landed at Nagpur Airport from Mumbai. Upon arrival, I immediately rendezvoused with my friend Karla at her hotel. Wasting no time, we met our driver from Pench who was already waiting in the lobby to drive us on a three-hour ride to Pench in Seoni, Madhya Pradesh.