From where I sat on a balcony of a hilltop hotel, I could see the many monuments built during the era of the Bundelas—a Rajput clan of Central India who lorded over this part of Madhya Pradesh beginning in the sixteenth century. In that moment, I savored the solemnity of finding myself some quiet time in between our busy media tour. Trailing my eyes from the top of an opposite hill into the rows of houses below, I became perplexed at the sight of jam-packed edifices below.
Into the Center of Jain Culture and History: Chanderi
As if sensing my confusion, our tour guide pointed out to me, "Look at the center, and you will see Chaubisi Jain Temple. It has more than twenty shikharas (towers) and over there is the Chanderi Fort." Following the direction of his finger, I got the idea of how compressed the town of Chanderi was fashioned through centuries of blossoming trade, religion, and culture.
Enveloped by the forested ridges of the Vindhya mountain range and dotted with glass-like lakes, it was easy to see why this town became the site of a flourishing economy dating back to the eleventh century. The population of Chanderi peaked at hundreds of thousands when a branch of the Silk Route passed through it.
During British rule in the nineteenth century, Chanderi was cut off from the Silk Road highway—consequently dwindling trade activities—and eventually, slashing its population to half. Despite losing much of its past economic luster, Chanderi remained a 'major center of Jain culture' and one of the most historic towns in India.
Center of Jain Culture
In a nation rich with the birthplaces of diverse spiritual traditions, I embraced the opportunity to learn a new one: Jainism. Older than Buddhism and sharing many similarities with Hinduism, Jainism also taught the principles of reincarnation, peace, non-attachment to material possessions, and the pursuit of good karma.
Despite the many likenesses with Hinduism, Jainism practitioners only comprised less than two percent of India’s population. Beautiful remains of Jain temples could be found all over Chanderi; one of which was the forty-five-foot-tall rock-cut portrait of Rishabhanatha (who in Jain belief—was the teacher of rebirth and death and propagator of the Dharma).
Splendid Architecture Abounds
As we went about our exploration of Chanderi, we laid eyes on some of the town’s finest architectural marvels from centuries past: Koshak Mahal, Badal Mahal Gate, Jama Masjid, and Chanderi Fort. Even in ruins, the Mandu-style architecture of Koshak Mahal remained a stunner. Its derelict condition only highlighted the beautiful arches more, as it led your eyes to a maze of fascinating patterns.
Originally envisioned as a victory monument to rise seven storeys high by Mahmud Khilji—a fifteenth-century sultan of the Indian Kingdom of the Malwa Sultanate (present-day Madhya Pradesh state)—only two of the three storeys were constructed during his lifetime. Despite its unfinished state, it remained an architectural eye-candy to this day.
The thirteenth-century Jama Masjid was Chanderi's biggest mosque, highlighted by an open court leading to the square hall that could seat two thousand devotees. Exhibiting a hint of Mughal architecture and a unique set of intricately designed pillars, the mosque stood in perfect cohort with the fifteenth-century Badal Mahal Gate—a one-hundred-foot historic gate built by Sultan Shah Khilji, standing across the street.
The Battle-Shaped Chanderi Fort
Built upon the orders of Pratihara Kirti Pal in the eleventh century, Chanderi Fort has since seen numerous renovations in the succeeding centuries, as it fell into the hands of one conqueror from one kingdom to another.
The walls that remain heavily fortified today were the result of buttress reinforcements constructed by the men of Mughal Emperor Babur after conquering Chanderi in the early sixteenth century. One chilling spot inside the fort is called the 'Johar Smarak'. This was where dozens of Rajput women chose self-immolation over capture, after one of Rajput's most decorated warriors, Medini Rai, died against the army of Mughal Emperor Babur.
After capturing Chanderi in 1586, the victorious Bundela Rajputs constructed the palace inside the fort. Because Chanderi was once an integral part of a trading route leading to the ancient port of Gujarat, it became a hotly contested location between the Mughal and Hindu Rajput rulers.
After hearing about these enthralling facts about Chanderi Fort, I hurriedly separated myself from our group to explore the rest of the place. Compared to the other forts I visited in India, Chanderi Fort appeared a lot smaller. But what they said about how small things create a broader impact in history?—I saw this place as a fitting representation of that adage.
Living up to my belief that India is a nation swarming with locations full of engrossing tales, the little old-world town of Chanderi dishes out a spectacular set of visual feasts, historic anecdotes, and charming vibe that shall certainly add to one’s wanderlust attraction to India.
