Turning the Pages of Angkor Wat | Cambodia

November 24, 2011
Journey to the heart of the Khmer Empire. From childhood obsession to the 5:30 AM sunrise at the quincunx towers, explore the mystery, architecture, and spiritual depth of Angkor Wat, the world's largest religious monument.
Cambodia / Siem Reap / UNESCO

Turning the Pages of Angkor Wat | Cambodia

By Marky Ramone Go November 2011

I have this place locked away in my head for as long as I can remember. Was it some magazine I've read as a kid? Some TV documentary I've seen? I couldn't precisely pinpoint what sparked my obsession with visiting this place. Angkor Wat for me was like a page from a book I'm reading. As the years passed, the pages appeared to become thicker, and my chances of seeing them seemed to slip away.

Angkor Wat Sunrise Towers
The silhouette of Angkor Wat at dawn

Since the start of my fascination about this place, I've matured into a man and faced the challenges of the corporate world. While I developed traits such as responsibilities and functioned in a hierarchy within the business world, my passion for travel remained unwavering. As I immersed myself in the book of travels, the pages depicting Angkor Wat, which I could run my fingers over, held a sense of mystery, awaiting a solution and ultimately, an experience. There was a persistent itch on my back that I needed to address, whether it was for good or for ill.

Marky Ramone Go Angkor Wat
Moments of contemplation before the stones of history

Like any obsessed individual, I made plans of visiting this place. I initially planned to visit Angkor Wat in the latter part of 2012, envisioning myself striding along its expansive walkways and lengthy corridors. However, just as all plans have the potential to go awry, mine went the complete opposite, as I unexpectedly achieved this goal nearly a year ahead of schedule. One day, I woke up, stumbled upon an airline promo, and booked a cheap flight to finally fulfill my long-standing obsession with this place.

Stone architecture Angkor Wat
The enduring foundations of the 12th century

Fast forward to the 3rd of November at exactly 5:30 AM. I found myself standing at the entrance of the vast Angkor Wat complex, along with my brother and many other tourists who came from Australia, the UK, and the rest of the world. I eagerly awaited the sun rising on the horizon, as well as the realization of what was once only a mere dream. At last! I was just a few twists away from finally turning the pages of Angkor Wat.

Travel Guide Angkor Wat Cambodia
The scale of human genius conceived in sandstone

As the sun began to rise and the final traces of darkness dissipated, we began our walk towards the entrance. As we neared the far-off quincunx towers of Angkor Wat, their diminutive silhouettes grew increasingly impressive. Climbing the stairs had me imagining being transported back in the early 12th century as one of the builders of this temple or even the man himself—the one responsible for its construction, King Suryavarman II. Originally built as an offering for the Hindu god Vishnu, it has since transformed into a Buddhist religious structure, making it the world's largest religious building.

Ancient ruins Siem Reap
Walking through a world reconstructed

There were many of us who climbed the steps going in, and at first I was worried that once inside, the scene would look like a concert hall bustling with overwhelming crowd. Magically, once I stepped my feet inside, I found myself wandering through long corridors by my lonesome and alighting out into open spaces with almost no one in sight aside from my brother. It was like I entered another world and purposely got myself lost.

Bas-relief galleries Angkor Wat
The walls that whisper the history of the Khmer

The intricate bas-relief galleries and the devatas adorning the walls inside are very hard to explain. The entire history of ancient Khmer appears to be on display before me, with all hints of the past staring back as I direct my wide-awed gaze towards it.

Marky Ramone Go inside Angkor
Solving a personal puzzle among ancient walls

Upon reaching one end of the temple, I separated myself from my brother and wandered alone toward another section. The wind blew in from all directions, and the wide windows overlooked an open field dotted with lush trees and a lake. As perplexing and mystifying as its architectural design and geographical positioning, which have scholars forever debating its meaning, Angkor Wat managed to solve a personal puzzle that has haunted me for as long as I can remember—my curiosity about this place.

Landscape of Angkor complex
With my older brother

The civilization that flourished around the time of its construction mysteriously disappeared 200 years after its construction. It could be the death of King Suryavarman or the sacking of Khmer by the Champa, an Indianized kingdom that controlled most of south and central Vietnam from the 7th to 18th century. Subsequent kingdoms in ancient Khmer quickly advanced farther inland, leading to the establishment of numerous temples surrounding Angkor Wat.

Devata stone carvings
This looks like a pool

Afterward, the whole temple complex, that had Antonio da Madalena, a Portuguese monk who first stumbled into Angkor Wat in 1586, wondered about "(what) human genius can conceive of", was mostly eaten by the dense jungles and was momentarily hidden from view of the outside world.

Corridors of Angkor Wat
Architecture that transcends time and space

Upon the rediscovery of Angkor Wat by Western explorers in the early 19th century, renovations immediately began. Over time, archaeologists, conservationists, and researchers arrived, conducting endless studies on the rich and colorful history of Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples.

Angkor Wat reflection
A memory vault of stone and reflection

As I cross out Angkor Wat from my life's list of places to see, I will be putting it in a very special place in my memory vault. A return trip is not impossible and does not lay far in the future. As the day drew to a close and the sun began its descent, I gazed up at the sky, noting its striking resemblance to the skies that King Suryavarman II and his people would have admired daily. The only difference now from theirs is the state of the world we're in. The walls and the strong foundations of Angkor Wat remain the same and still mesmerize people from all over the world.

Nomadic Pranksters: 2011 Masskara Festival

November 21, 2011



Famous beat writer Ken Kessey unofficially formed "Merry Pranksters" in the 60's. It is composed of a group of people bonded by a singular thread that weaves them all together. Theirs was a choice of an unconventional lifestyle, of living communally and taking road trips across the United States (while high with something - LSD?). It was a set-up that have provided them a rich set of experiences, that somehow made it into works of literature, as most of them are writers in the said era. To know more about these gregarious people, reading Tom Wolfe's "The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test" should be a good start.

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The River Garden, Siem Reap | Cambodia

November 21, 2011


Our home away from home for two nights while in Siem Reap, Cambodia surprised us with a wonderful nature vibe. The River Garden was the accommodation provided for me by Roomorama months before my trip. I remember while planning my trip to Siem Reap, I told myself I would not mind sleeping on benches in a park just to visit the place at all cost. Though sometimes, surprises comes in great package and I was able to book this place courtesy of Roomorama, which is the leading online provider of "quality accommodations for the curious travelers" 


Nomadic Video 3: Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum | Cambodia

November 19, 2011

It's hard to write something about this place. It's hard enough being there with all your human emotions all over the place. More difficult to walk around and stare at the nameless portraits of those who died there. The air inside was that of modern day peace time, but the presence of the walls that surrounds you, tells of an unspoken grim and brutal past.

Ria Jose

Banteay Srei Temple in Angkor | Cambodia

November 15, 2011


Like any good addiction such as traveling, our temple hopping never hovered near overdose level. Reason why we went further from the main Angkor complex to explore more temple ruins. Banteay Srei is one of my favorite temples in the former Khmer capital of Angkor. It is probably the most intricately designed sanctuary in Siem Reap, as evidenced by the impressive and elaborate carvings adorning  its still impressively looking walls. The temples doesn't share the capacious temples around Angkor, but it definitely showcases a unique characteristic. 

Gretchen Filart

Nomadic Video 2: Angkor Wat

November 11, 2011


Here is the music video of the various moving images of Angkor Wat and the many temples surrounding it. I made sure I was able to shoot enough scenes as this has been the trip I've been wanting to make for the longest time. What better way than to store it not only in my memory vault, but have it go along with one of my favorite songs of all time, "Here Comes the Sun" by the Beatles.



Phnom Pehn de Sarapen: Border Crossing | Cambodia

November 10, 2011
A first-hand guide to the bus journey and border crossing from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Discover the Moc Bai/Bavet border process, Mekong River ferry crossings, and practical travel tips for a smooth Indochina overland adventure.
Vietnam / Cambodia / Overland

Phnom Pehn de Sarapen: Border Crossing | Cambodia

By Marky Ramone Go November 2011

Since I arrived a day earlier than my brother in Ho Chi Minh, I spent the whole day walking around the city. I had a blast getting myself immersed in a new place which hurriedly became familiar to me. From crossing the street with a sea of motorcycles whose drivers never slow down, I've become an expert in not getting ran over after a few attempts. I've also politely rejected motorcycle drivers and rickshaw operators' offer of ride, as I just told them "I'm just walking around". Which I did before retiring to the guest house and waited for my brother who arrived early morning the next day. After a short nap, we went out to the then awakening city of Saigon and had a quick breakfast in order to catch the 6:30 AM bus going to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. A day earlier, I already purchased two one way tickets to Phnom Penh which costs $10.00 per person at the Sihn Tourist located at De Tham street - which is just beside both Buy Vien and Pham Ngu Lao.

Bus for Ho Chi Minh to Phnom Penh border crossing
The chariot for my first international border crossing

I've taken a million bus rides in my life, but this one is special as it will be my first time to cross a border into another country. There was a little apprehension as I am worried that the immigration process at the border will be strict and paranoia of being a Filipino–who is always suspected of overstaying–clouded my worry bubble for a few seconds. However, the process was a walk in the park as fellow member of the ASEAN nations, we do not need a visa to enter Cambodia and all we did was line up and waited for our passports to be stamped by the both Vietnamese and Cambodian immigration officers.

Ho Chi Minh to Phnom Penh Bus route

The trip from Saigon to the border took around 2 and a half hours. So for the first couple of hours we passed by the ensuing towns and cities of Saigon where I saw more motorcycles driven around as the ride of choice of people going to work. If you think the streets of Manila is already filled with motorcycles, then think again as the ratio would probably fall into less than 1 is to 10 when compared with that of Vietnam.

Moc Bai border crossing Vietnam
Approaching the gate between two nations: Moc Bai

The Bavet / Moc Bai border is just one of the many borders travelers pass through to enter Cambodia. This is the most popular as many tourists from Saigon takes this route, thanks to the many Saigon - Phnom Penh and Siem Reap bus trips offerings from the many ticketing outlets in Ho Chi Minh.

Indochina travel cafeteria stop

After the border stop, the bus parked at a nearby cafeteria for a quick lunch and all of a sudden one will feel the change of countries emphatically because you can't use your Vietnamese Dong anymore, rather they accept US dollars. My brother bought a can of Pringles at US $2.00 and two Pepsi's in can for $1.00 each. Like Filipinos in other parts of the globe, we did a quick mind Peso conversion. 42.00 pesos for a can of soda, hmm a bit expensive yeah, compared to 25-30.00 sold here.

Cambodian countryside landscape
Freshly packed fruits sold at the border

After a short while, we were back on the bus again and rolling along the countryside of Cambodia. I saw large mass of rice fields and wonder how much of this green lands have a landmine still planted and left un-exploded. A long stretch of the field are engulfed with water, probably the remnants of the flood that besieged Cambodia two weeks earlier.

Mekong River crossing ferry

Then after another hour, the bus rolled into a barge at the Neak Leoung Ferry terminal for a short ride across Mekong. The river crossing took around 10 minutes, the transition was done smoothly as our bus and other vehicles rolled out, the awaiting passengers, motorcycles and other vehicles rolled in and the barge went back to the other side after a few minutes.

Cambodia rural scenes

Then its more countryside again and pockets of small towns in between. The sight was nothing peculiar as it easily mirrors the countryside we have here in the Philippines. Rice paddies, small houses, people walking at the side of the streets, people waving at the bus. However, there are more kids riding the bicycles going to school and its nice to see some of them grouped together wearing their shimmery white colored uniforms pedaling in unison at the side of the road.

Tuktuk in Cambodia

Tuk-tuks or the Auto rickshaw started to appear at towns we passed by. In the Philippines we have our own version which we called as "tricycles", while in Cambodia it is a motorcycle with a passenger cabin (can fit in 4 people) with a roof attached in its rear. It offers a convenient ride as I would found out later one, if you're only two passengers you can sit side by side and stretch out your legs over to the opposite seats and you're like riding a smooth ass car.

Arrival at Phnom Penh

Finally at around 2:00 PM, after a trip that lasted over 7 hours we rolled into the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh. At the bus stop, we bumped into a friendly tuktuk driver named Prahn, who eventually became our tuktuk driver for the rest of the day and the other time when we went back to Phnom Penh after spending 3 days in Siem Reap.

Friendly Cambodian Tuktuk driver
Prahn, our guide to the streets of Phnom Penh

"Where you from" Prahn would ask us. My brother said "We're from the Philippines". "Oh (he motions punching his two fists) Manny Pacquiao, I love Manny Pacquiao". It turns out he watches Pacquiao's fights which is shown in Phnom Penh on a cable channel a few days every time he fights.

Marky Ramone Go in Phnom Penh

Finally at around 3:00 PM we settled in this lovely guesthouse which Roomorama provided for me, called the You Khin House located near the Russian Embassy and is only a walking distance from the city's main attraction. After getting a short rest we took a walk and introduced ourselves to the city of Phnom Penh. After all the hours, the butt numbing bus ride and the border crossing - the trip was worth doing and all the things I saw and experience between transporting from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh was everything that makes traveling truly addicting.

War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City | Vietnam

November 10, 2011


The "Vietnam War" is one of the most infamous events of recent times. Told to us by a telling number of movies made in Hollywood which heightened only the conflict through the eyes of the Americans. I grew up watching the films by Oliver Stone ("Platoon"), Francis Ford Coppolla ("Apocalypse Now") and Stanley Kubrick ("Full Metal Jacket") of how the war besieged the innocence of young Americans drafted into the battlefields of Vietnam. Truth to be told, the war is more terrifying and harrowing if looked from the eyes and the experiences of the Vietnamese people, 3 million of whom (2 million civilians) died in the senseless conflict brought upon from former US President Dwight Eisenhower's unfounded "domino theory" paranoia in Asia.

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Phnom Bakheng Sunset | Cambodia

November 08, 2011

After almost 7 hour bus ride from Phnom Penh, we finally rolled into Siem Reap with my excitement swelling into a massive wave inside my body. My mind is painting a picture of the vast Angkor Wat complex and its nearby and equally impressive temple ruins. Comparing what I had imagined and read before to what I will see in a short while, mirrors every adolescent boy's first foray into a lovemaking session with a beautiful girl.


Roomorama: You Khin House in Phnom Penh

November 07, 2011

True to form with Roomorama's vision of introducing the other aspects of traveling aside from "visiting a checklist of tourist attractions". The experience I had with You Khin House in Phnom Penh, Cambodia opened my eyes to the many things, a traveler can do while visiting a particular city on a longer term. The idea of joining an NGO organization like the one behind You Khin House presents an ideal chance to mix traveling and helping others.

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Reunification Palace: Last Bastion of South Vietnam

November 06, 2011

I grew up watching a battalion of Vietnam War movies and TV shows. From "Platoon", "Born on the 4th of July", "Full Metal Jacket", "Hamburger Hill" and even Chuck Norris' "Missing in Action" series. I've forever associated Vietnam with that brutal part of its history. Fast forward to today, I see the city of Ho Chi Minh as a country miles away from that bloody image of Saigon during the war. The peace-time version has disengaged my mind from its former image. Better be, because the end of Vietnam War  happened almost 37 years ago. It was on the day of April 30, 1975 when a tank belonging to the North Vietnamese Army came crashing through the gates of what is then known as the Independence Palace. The ensuing short battle paved the way for the Fall of Saigon, thereby putting the control of all of Vietnam into the hands of the communist North Vietnamese forces.

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The view from the 2nd flr window of the Palace

Dispatch From Saigon

November 05, 2011


I'm writing this inside our $12 room in Saigon. My brother is already snoring and sleeping soundly, while I just had the urge to write something. This is our last night on a journey that has taken us from Saigon - Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia and back again in Ho Chi Minh. It was a trip that finally morphed my childhood fascination of seeing Angkor Wat - into a reality. By tomorrow, this epic on the road experience will total 8 days, one of my longest so far, in terms of traveling in between my day job.

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