Like any good addiction, such as traveling, our temple hopping never hovered near overdose level. That was the reason why we went further from the main Angkor complex to explore more temple ruins. Banteay Srei was one of my favorite temples in the former Khmer capital of Angkor. It was probably the most intricately designed sanctuary in Siem Reap, as evidenced by the impressive and elaborate carvings adorning its still-impressive-looking walls. The temple did not share the capaciousness of the temples around Angkor, but it definitely showcased a unique characteristic.
Exploring the Red Stone Citadel of Banteay Srei | Cambodia
The Citadel of Women
Banteay Srei was constructed in the tenth century as a dedication to a prominent Hindu deity named Shiva. The temple was the only one that was not built upon the orders of a Khmer King. A courtier to King Rajendravarman named Yajnavaraha was believed to have built and overseen its construction. The modern name "Banteay Srei" means "citadel of the women (beauty)."
The day before, while looking at the map of the whole Angkor complex and plotting which temples to visit, our tuk-tuk driver had told us to visit that place. He said it was one of the most impressive—"not that big but marvelous design," he had told us. The only problem was that Banteay Srei was located approximately thirty kilometers away from Angkor Wat and was one of the very few temples that were further out of the vicinity of major temples, and going there took around forty-five minutes of a tuk-tuk ride.
The next day, after witnessing the sunrise at Angkor Wat and visiting other temples around the vicinity, our tuk-tuk driver drove us there after lunch. The countryside along the way was splendid and offered a smooth ride, passing a long stretch of road unto the Landmine Museum, small towns, and a seemingly endless view of the flatlands of Cambodia.
An Open Secret in the Jungle
Like the main Angkor Wat temple, the existence of Banteay Srei had always been an open secret to the people of Cambodia. However, time and the growth spurt of the surrounding forests had slowly hidden those temples from plain sight until word of mouth scattered in the West after a member of a French archaeological team wrote a brief description of the lost city of Angkor.
What soon followed were archaeological digs that started in areas around Angkor until Banteay Srei was finally rediscovered in 1914. The temple itself became a hotbed for adventurists slash art thieves, the most famous of whom was Andre Malraux, a French adventurer who was arrested and charged with stealing 'bas-reliefs' and 'devatas' from the temple upon returning to France. With its main "stela" being discovered in 1936, a then-revolutionary method of restoration called "Anastylosis" was performed in the temple. That technique made it possible for Banteay Srei to be restored as close as possible to its original design, theme, and architecture.
The temple was highlighted by its reddish color, brought upon by the red sandstone used in its construction. Walking inside the ruins and looking at the intricate and detailed wall carvings, I was again reminded about the artistry and patience of the earlier inhabitants of Angkor. It must have been a ridiculously complex process of construction done for each section of the temple.
The crowd was small when we went there, probably because of its distance from the main cluster of temples in Angkor. I would have settled in that part also if I were a Khmer King back then in the tenth century until the fourteenth century, to which scholars believed it was used until and before the natural formation of its surrounding forest cloaked it in seclusion.
It was hard to describe the detailed formation of every corner, wall, and enclosure of Banteay Srei. It was just amazing seeing the works of the people who constructed it. Marveling at its incredibility was such an understatement when comparing it with modern buildings built with the help of current technologies.
Temple Overdose and Final Thoughts
It was around high noon when I felt the scorching sun slowly taking its toll on my body. It had been almost a whole day spent on temple hopping around Angkor, and the kind of "temple overload" people talked about when visiting Angkor Wat was finally creeping in. However, temple overdose or not—it had been a great day for me and my brother. The trip was easily the highlight of my year, and Banteay Srei was just the fitting finale for a day of learning and experiencing one of the best places Siem Reap could offer.
With my jaw rolling on the ground in awe, I had carved a wonderful memory of Banteay Srei in my mind, as elaborate as its exceptional wall carvings, as intricate as its bas-reliefs and pediments. It was fun walking around that temple hundreds of years after it was first built; I wondered what more it would have been if I had walked through there during those times.
