The history of World War II was like this wild story that just seeped into the very consciousness of my childhood. Ever since I stumbled upon my late father’s encyclopedia set back in first grade, I had been captivated by the pages that delved into the timeline bridging World War I and World War II.
“There’s only one country I haven’t been to. Nepal. I don’t know why—I just haven’t had the chance,” Don Ado told us after he overheard me asking my friend Karla, “Can you guess how many countries he has traveled to?” It wasn’t a question concocted out of the blue. I sincerely wondered about it after surveying the massive art, historic, religious, and souvenir collection housed safely inside Don Ado’s private ancestral mansion.
It was 4 a.m. when we arrived at the converging place. I instantly felt the cool morning air starting to diminish as the hour inched its way to sunrise. Members of the Philippine Armed Forces, war veterans, their families, socio-civic groups, government employees, Automobile Association of the Philippines (AAP) members, and dedicated volunteers quickly filled the grounds of People’s Park in Tarlac.
While the revving engines of military AUVs and heavy footsteps of army boots sounded off, a familiar and highly respected figure took to the stage and was handed a microphone to officially address the crowd. It was then I caught sight of former Philippine President and Korean War veteran, Fidel V. Ramos (FVR). Still brimming with energy, he quickly boosted the crowd from a state of half-awakening into a lively, spirited mood by leading a morning exercise and joyfully reenacting his iconic EDSA People Power jump, to the raucous cheer of the crowd.
Believed to have originated even before the arrival of the Spaniards, the Guling-Guling Festival morphed into a religious practice in the 16th century, when the Spanish friars attached it to the celebration of the Lenten season. Happening just a day before Ash Wednesday, guling—the local Ilocano word meaning “to smear”—comes into play when the town mayor smudges a white cross, made from damp white rice flour, onto a person’s forehead to indicate their pureness. The townsfolk deeply believe that this sacred ritual symbolically washes away their sins.
Being the home province of the late strongman Ferdinand Marcos, who was born in Sarrat - Ilocos Province held almost the same amount of power as the ones enjoyed by the few in Manila. One true representation of it was the symbolic Malacañang of the North - which by any other name, would pass as an ordinary summer house built in true heritage fashion, highlighted by its Spanish colonial architecture.
But, the Marcoses as history jotted down is by no means any ordinary family. Being previous owners of this mansion, which sits squarely on a flat green lawn overlooking the tranquil Paoay Lake, makes it a very significant landmark that stood witness to the years, of what many refer to as the dark regime.
Known by its other name “Malacanang Ti Amianan”, it is said to be a gift by the former First Lady Imelda Marcos, to Ferdinand Marcos on his 60th birthday. While most historians would include this mansion as among the many symbols of the former first family's excess, the current Mansion stands as an ageing reminder of that eventful regime that lasted for more than 20 years (1965-1986).
While one could still see the finer details of the house, you get a feeling the furniture and the interior are far recreations of the past and it now only exist as a museum run by meager funding. Still, some surviving mementos like the old pictures of the Marcos family, the portrait painting of the former first couple, the lavish stairwell and the wide-eyed view of the scenic Paoay lake, kind of brings forth a series of images that depicts what it was like during their heyday.
I can imagine the late President retreating to this lakeside mansion to escape the fiery political movement snowballing in the 70's, deep in his thoughts and burying his attention on his many books. Today, the mansion serves as a museum and for a small entrance fee (10.00) you get to tour the house with a guide who is obviously a fan of the Marcoses, but still dishes out some fascinating facts about the Marcos regime.
Among those displayed as part of the Marcos memorabilia are the Code of the Agrarian Reform of 1971 which includes "The Tenant Emancipation Decree" or the Presidential Decree # 27 which states "Decreeing the emancipation of tenants from the bondage of the soil, transferring to them the ownership of the land they till and providing the instruments and mechanism therefor". Sounds promising but issued during the Martial Law, historians pegged it as a vision that contrasts the reality of that time.
What is amazing about it though is, the Code of Agrarian Reform of 1971 is the only law ever done in handwriting with President Marcos penning Presidential Decree # 27 with his own handwriting.
The second floor consists of a large space that could double as a dance hall. Knowing Imelda Marcos' penchant for partying I'm sure it has seen some of the grandest celebrations of the time. While not as big as I expected, the Master bedroom is highlighted by a window that opens up to the majestic view of Paoay Lake.
Some of the rooms at the ground floor houses some displays that represents the way of life during much of the 70's and the 80's. Of course, like any museum in the Ilocos region, expect no mention of the corruption, cronies debauchery, the political unrest and freedom deprivation. Looking at it you would think the 'Bagong Lipunan' (New Society Movement) program of Marcos went smoothly. I love the fact about the farmers being supplied with radios to play Nora Aunor songs of patriotism and the farming novelty song "Ang Magtanim ay di Biro".
I always thought that the late President Ferdinand Marcos had a great vision for the Philippines. He got the bright mind to implement a radical change in our society. He may have succeeded in his first few years BUT somewhere along the way things got meddled and went Kaput. My curiosity is always piqued by these turn of events in our history and by visiting places such as this, gives me a new perspective at how history turned out during those years and how I wish it could have veered toward an entirely different route.
This is a part of my Ilocos Roadtrip Series that also include the following:
