Unbeknownst to many, the Tourism Promotions Board of the Philippines (TPB), the marketing arm of the Department of Tourism (DOT), has been conducting marketing enhancement workshops with community-based tourism (CBT) stakeholders from several communities nationwide.
“Yohooooo, Kuya be kind to us!” she shouted at the driver of the 4x4 truck as we made sure our hands were gripped onto the handlebar like glue. We were just about to go over the first mound of sand, almost 30 feet high, when she issued that reminder. Not that kuya had a habit of giving a flying eff about slowing down—it’s just that he follows to heart the unwritten rule of the dunes: the faster, the better.
He then accelerated the truck into a dizzying speed, shaking the four of us huddled at the back. The engine struggled a little going to the apex of the hill, but once gravity took over, hellacious yells from my female companions almost busted my eardrums. As we slid through the downhill path like one of those post-apocalyptic vehicles driven by looneys in Mad Max films, I felt a different kind of rush.
Believed to have originated even before the arrival of the Spaniards, the Guling-Guling Festival morphed into a religious practice in the 16th century, when the Spanish friars attached it to the celebration of the Lenten season. Happening just a day before Ash Wednesday, guling—the local Ilocano word meaning “to smear”—comes into play when the town mayor smudges a white cross, made from damp white rice flour, onto a person’s forehead to indicate their pureness. The townsfolk deeply believe that this sacred ritual symbolically washes away their sins.
Being the home province of the late strongman Ferdinand Marcos, who was born in Sarrat - Ilocos Province held almost the same amount of power as the ones enjoyed by the few in Manila. One true representation of it was the symbolic Malacañang of the North - which by any other name, would pass as an ordinary summer house built in true heritage fashion, highlighted by its Spanish colonial architecture.
But, the Marcoses as history jotted down is by no means any ordinary family. Being previous owners of this mansion, which sits squarely on a flat green lawn overlooking the tranquil Paoay Lake, makes it a very significant landmark that stood witness to the years, of what many refer to as the dark regime.
Known by its other name “Malacanang Ti Amianan”, it is said to be a gift by the former First Lady Imelda Marcos, to Ferdinand Marcos on his 60th birthday. While most historians would include this mansion as among the many symbols of the former first family's excess, the current Mansion stands as an ageing reminder of that eventful regime that lasted for more than 20 years (1965-1986).
While one could still see the finer details of the house, you get a feeling the furniture and the interior are far recreations of the past and it now only exist as a museum run by meager funding. Still, some surviving mementos like the old pictures of the Marcos family, the portrait painting of the former first couple, the lavish stairwell and the wide-eyed view of the scenic Paoay lake, kind of brings forth a series of images that depicts what it was like during their heyday.
I can imagine the late President retreating to this lakeside mansion to escape the fiery political movement snowballing in the 70's, deep in his thoughts and burying his attention on his many books. Today, the mansion serves as a museum and for a small entrance fee (10.00) you get to tour the house with a guide who is obviously a fan of the Marcoses, but still dishes out some fascinating facts about the Marcos regime.
Among those displayed as part of the Marcos memorabilia are the Code of the Agrarian Reform of 1971 which includes "The Tenant Emancipation Decree" or the Presidential Decree # 27 which states "Decreeing the emancipation of tenants from the bondage of the soil, transferring to them the ownership of the land they till and providing the instruments and mechanism therefor". Sounds promising but issued during the Martial Law, historians pegged it as a vision that contrasts the reality of that time.
What is amazing about it though is, the Code of Agrarian Reform of 1971 is the only law ever done in handwriting with President Marcos penning Presidential Decree # 27 with his own handwriting.
The second floor consists of a large space that could double as a dance hall. Knowing Imelda Marcos' penchant for partying I'm sure it has seen some of the grandest celebrations of the time. While not as big as I expected, the Master bedroom is highlighted by a window that opens up to the majestic view of Paoay Lake.
Some of the rooms at the ground floor houses some displays that represents the way of life during much of the 70's and the 80's. Of course, like any museum in the Ilocos region, expect no mention of the corruption, cronies debauchery, the political unrest and freedom deprivation. Looking at it you would think the 'Bagong Lipunan' (New Society Movement) program of Marcos went smoothly. I love the fact about the farmers being supplied with radios to play Nora Aunor songs of patriotism and the farming novelty song "Ang Magtanim ay di Biro".
I always thought that the late President Ferdinand Marcos had a great vision for the Philippines. He got the bright mind to implement a radical change in our society. He may have succeeded in his first few years BUT somewhere along the way things got meddled and went Kaput. My curiosity is always piqued by these turn of events in our history and by visiting places such as this, gives me a new perspective at how history turned out during those years and how I wish it could have veered toward an entirely different route.
This is a part of my Ilocos Roadtrip Series that also include the following:
After a couple of days in Vigan, we proceeded to Laoag in Ilocos Norte where we stayed for another night. We visited various attractions like the Malacañang of the North, the Marcos Museum, and the historic Church of Paoay before capping it off with a wild ride over the sand dunes of La Paz. Mirroring the hectic pace of the contestants of the Amazing Race, we hustled the next day to continue our northern road trip to Pagudpud.
Part of the collective group of Baroque Churches in the Philippines recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, Paoay Church or the Saint Augustine Church has eluded me for the longest time. Twice I have been to the province of Ilocos Norte and both times I went home without catching a glimpse of its massive facade walls. I reckon only a fool would let fly a third opportunity without seeing it up close.
During my northern road trip late last year with my girlfriend Monnette and her sisters Len and Day, we made sure to pass by Laoag so we could easily hop into a tricycle and visit Paoay. Along the way, we also dropped by a cluster of interesting places such as the Malacanang of the North, the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum at Batac City, and the La Paz Sand Dunes. All of these including the Paoay Church are doable for an afternoon trip.
Just like what I expected the visual exterior of Saint Augustine Church is teeming with impressiveness. Even though I've seen a stellar set of other Spanish Colonial Churches all over the country, I guess I will never get tired of staring at one-two-three-four hundred year old churches.
Referred to as 'earthquake baroque church' because of the enormous buttresses that supports the side and back parts of the church. It is believed that the baroque architectural elements was reinforced by additional structural supports, because of the many occurrence of churches getting destroyed by earthquakes and fires throughout our history under the Spanish rule.
Made of large coral stones and bricks and binded together using mortar composed of 'sand and lime with sugarcane juice boiled with mango leaves, leather and rice straw'. (1), the church appears it can withstand another three to four hundred years.
If only Saint Augustine Church and the municipality of Paoay is only an hour or two away from home, I will definitely consider it as the place to tie the knot someday. It would be lovely to see my bride (Monnette) walk the aisle of this historic church that has stood the better and worse of times, throughout the richer and poorer state of its townsfolk and a place where countless generations of faithfuls prayed against sickness, for health and safety of their love ones.
This is a part of my Ilocos Roadtrip Series that also include the following:
The summer 0f 2007 was the first time I was able to visit Ilocos Norte province. Before that, all I know about the place aside from being the home province of former President Ferdinand Marcos was that it’s about a 12-hour ride away from Manila. Together with some friends, I finally ended up in Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte.
