How A Couple Went on a Philippine Loop Experiencing Local Culture
Motorcycle tourism remains
a relatively novel concept in the Philippines, despite the prevalence of
two-wheeled transport as a mainstay of daily life. Yet, for many, the notion of
long-distance motorcycle touring conjures images of large groups of riders
thundering through quiet provincial towns, engines roaring at 1,200cc, leaving
disruption in their wake.
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| Gelyka and Ramir |
This perception is
not unfounded. Unguided riding groups often organize so-called "fun
rides" that quickly turn into informal races. The 2024 BOSS Ironman Motorcycle Challenge, for instance, resulted in numerous accidents, including
three fatalities—an incident that did little to enhance the reputation of
motorcycle tourism.
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| The Philippine Loop map of Ramir and Gelyka's journey |
Fortunately, a
growing movement of responsible riders are championing a more measured and
respectful approach. Their philosophy embraces a slower, safer pace, with
routes designed to encircle the archipelago at leisure. Along the way, riders
pause in remote towns, engaging with locals, sampling regional cuisine, and exploring
into the country’s rich history and culture. It is, they believe, a more
meaningful way to see the Philippines—on two wheels, but without the
recklessness.
Much like Vietnam’s
famed Ha Giang Loop, motorcycle touring in the Philippines need not be a group
endeavor. The country’s extensive network of highways, inner roads, and
expressways—most notably the 3,379-kilometre Pan-Philippine Highway, or
Maharlika Highway—offers a largely seamless route linking Luzon, Visayas, and
Mindanao, with ferry crossings bridging the islands. This infrastructure allows
riders to embark on a cross-country journey at their own pace, whether in small
groups or, as highlighted in our feature, as a couple sharing a single
motorcycle.
Ramir and Gelyka: The
Newly-Minted Philippine Loopers
“Adventure awaits,”
as the adage goes. For long-time couple Ramir and Gelyka, however, a great adventure
is already knocking. Even amid the flurry of wedding preparations (they tied
the knot this month), the pair found time to map out the journey of a lifetime,
a ride that would take them around the country.
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| A much needed stop at the Enchanted River in Hinatuan |
For Gelyka, a
seasoned travel writer, exploring the country has long been second nature. With
Ramir, a photographer and passionate rider, it seemed only fitting to take
their shared love for travel to the next level: a full Philippine Loop.
Their journey,
which began on April 14, 2024, in San Mateo, Rizal, and concluded on June 1, spanned
5,335.3 kilometers, covering 23 riding days interspersed with 20 days of rest
and exploration.
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| Experiencing the freedom of the road |
“We spent a year
planning,” Ramir explained. “It started with buying a higher-displacement
motorcycle and taking several long rides to familiarize ourselves with the road
ahead.”
Preparation for the
journey included Ramir undertaking a basic riding course and the couple
upgrading their gear to ensure safety, comfort, and convenience. “We had been
riding even before the pandemic, using a Kymco Like 150 scooter,” Ramir
explained. “But for the Philippine Loop, we knew we’d need a motorcycle with a
higher displacement, so we ended up choosing the Royal Enfield Himalayan 411”
With Ramir on the
handlebar and Gelyka as a back rider, the couple had already clocked hundreds
of kilometers on their Kymco Like 150, riding from Rizal to Albay, Benguet, and
La Union. But with their sights set on the Philippine Loop, they took their
newly acquired Himalayan 411 on a series of test runs—to Bicol, Baler, and
Zambales—fine-tuning both machine and mindset before the journey began.
On the Road
Experiences
As their Philippine
Loop unfolded, it didn’t take long for the couple to hit both the peaks and
pitfalls of motorcycle touring. “The weather was the toughest part, especially
during our ride from Tuguegarao to Aurora,” Gelyka admits. “Some days, the heat
pushed close to 40°C, only to be chased by sudden, unforgiving downpours.”
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| Safety gears and clothing are a must |
The challenges
stacked up—like the two days they spent recuperating in an Iloilo hotel, downed
by a bad serving of taho—but Ramir and Gelyka quickly realized that the
magic of the journey far outweighed the struggles. The highs hit harder, the
sights felt richer, and the moments they shared became stories worth telling,
packed with lessons and revelations they hadn’t anticipated.
Traversing the
steep, winding roads of Mountain Province aboard their Himalayan 411, Ramir and
Gelyka faced countless horseshoe curves that seemed to stretch endlessly into
the horizon. Yet with each turn, they held fast to the belief that something
remarkable awaited at the next stop.
“The ride to Tinoc,
Ifugao, was easily one of my favorites,” Gelyka reflects. “Reaching the Highest
Point of the Philippine Highway System—7,968.07 feet above sea level—was an
achievement in itself. But what made it unforgettable was the journey through the
vegetable fields and mountain villages of Buguias, Benguet, landscapes I’d only
ever seen in photographs.”
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| A scenic stop with Mayon Volcano in the background |
From the back of
the Himalayan 411, she found herself silently emotional. “It hit me, this was
one of those rare moments when a place you’ve always dreamed about suddenly
surrounds you, and for a while, the world feels perfectly in tune.”
Asked about their
most memorable moments, Gelyka didn’t hesitate. Among the many sights, one
stood out: a Palawan cherry blossom (balayong) in full bloom. “Along the
skyline route to Quirino, we spotted this beautiful Bolilising tree, its
branches bursting with vivid pink flowers,” she recalled. “It was the perfect
excuse to get our tired butts off the motorcycle for a quick photo op.”
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| As the adage says, stop and smell the flowers |
Soon enough, the
couple’s journey was filled with the breathtaking landscapes of the Philippine
countryside. By opting for a leisurely pace, Ramir and Gelyka embraced the
opportunity to truly experience their surroundings, taking time to "stop
and smell the flowers," as the saying goes. This slower rhythm also
allowed them to engage with locals, uncovering local culture along the way.
“One of our
favorite stops was in South Cotabato, in the town of Lake Sebu,” Gelyka
recalls. “It wasn’t part of our original itinerary, but a local we met in
General Santos City encouraged us to go.”
Though the ride
from General Santos took a couple of hours, the journey through lush forests
and rugged mountains was nothing short of surreal. “We stayed at Punta Isla
Lake Resort, where we were treated to an incredible view of the lake and a
delicious fried tilapia dinner,” Gelyka says. “We also had the privilege of
visiting the T’boli Museum, where we spent an afternoon with Datu Bao Baay,
learning about the indigenous T’boli culture.”
The following
morning, they rose early to witness the water lilies in full bloom before
setting off once again on their motorcycle journey to the next destination.
The Philippine Loop
Community
Traveling the
Philippines by motorcycle offered Ramir and Gelyka not only sweeping,
Instagram-worthy views but also a firsthand education in the country’s rich
culture, history, and cuisine. Along the way, they crossed paths with fellow
Philippine Loopers—an informal community of riders who, like them, have gone on
a loop-trail around the country on two wheels.
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| The good-looking Himalayan 411 |
“Although we’ve
been riding since the pandemic, we’ve never been part of any moto club or
riding group. We prefer to keep things intentionally relaxed and slow,” Ramir
explains. “When we joined the Philippine Loop, it was a pleasant surprise to
meet other loopers on the road. We recognized each other by our distinctive
Philippine Loop vests and shirts.”
“Imagine riding
from Tuguegarao to Baler, Aurora, on a scorching day, and then encountering
another looper heading in the opposite direction,” he continues. “We didn’t
stop for a conversation—just a peace sign or a friendly honk. That simple
gesture was enough to remind us we weren’t alone on the road, and it was
exactly what we needed to keep going.”
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| Meeting fellow riders on the road |
There is also
instances when the duo would encounter fellow Philippine Loopers in times of
distress as Ramir recalls one incident “On a quick side trip from Pagudpud to
the Bangui Windmills, the road quickly shifted from paved to soft sand. We lost
traction, fell, and briefly lost control. Thankfully, a group of nearby
Philippine Loopers came to our aid, lifting the bike and ensuring we were okay.
We continued on to the windmills as if nothing had happened—just some dusty
pants and boots.”
In Cotabato City,
Ramir and Gelyka found themselves welcomed by a small group of Philippine
Loopers who offered to show them around and share the best way to experience
the city. "It was a wonderful feeling to feel safe and welcomed in a place
so far from home," Ramir remarked, reflecting on the unexpected
camaraderie that made the experience all the more special.
Ramir and Gelyka’s
Essential Do’s and Don’ts for a Philippine Loop
For those planning
a Philippine Loop adventure, Ramir and Gelyka offer a few key pieces of advice
beyond ensuring you have the proper motorcycle and gear. First and foremost,
stay hydrated. "Make quick stops, especially under the intense sun, and drink
fresh buko juice whenever you can," they suggest, noting the refreshing
alternative to soft drinks. Gear is also crucial—investing in protective riding
equipment ensures safety for the unexpected moments that may arise on the road.
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| The couple can finally sing "Mula Aparri hanggang..." |
Stretching before
each ride is another must-do. "A few minutes of stretching and breathing
exercises can loosen muscles, release tension, and reduce the risk of
cramps," says Gelyka. They also recommend staying active during rest days
by walking to prevent stiffness. When it comes to the ride itself, don’t ride
on an empty stomach. "Lack of food can lead to irritability and poor
decision-making," Ramir warns, emphasizing the importance of a balanced
meal beforehand.
Pacing is key, too.
The couple advises against rushing as they shared speeding up to only 60-70 kph
maximum. "Speed increases the risk of accidents and can cloud
judgment," Ramir explains. The Philippine Loop is about the journey, not
the race. Lastly, always double-check your route. While Google Maps is helpful,
it’s important to verify directions the night before and consider alternate
paths.
Ramir and Gelyka
prefer main highways over bypass roads, not only for convenience but for better
access to motorcycle services should problems arise and a glimpse into local
life.
Ramir emphasized
the importance of understanding basic troubleshooting for your bike.
“Familiarize yourself with common issues and have a contact for virtual
assistance in case of emergencies. It's also wise to identify nearby repair
shops along your route,” he advised.
The couple also
underscored the need for rest days. Riding nonstop can be taxing, so they
recommend carving out time to recharge. “Take a day off from riding, enjoy a
leisurely walking tour, or simply relax in your hotel room,” Ramir suggests.
“Don’t rush through your itinerary, allow for flexibility, errands, and
downtime to ensure a more enjoyable and manageable journey.”
Engaging with
locals, Gelyka notes, adds another enriching aspect to the experience.
“Conversations with people you meet often lead to valuable recommendations,”
she said. One memorable suggestion came from a gasoline station attendant in
Gumaca, who pointed them to a nearby bakeshop known for its must-try tuna melt
pandesal. These unplanned interactions, they found, often resulted in some of
the most rewarding moments of the trip.
Lessons and
Revelations From the Road
For Ramir and
Gelyka, their Philippine Loop experience was more than just a continuous
slideshow of stunning landscapes, vibrant culture, and new culinary delights—it
was also an opportunity to probe deeper into their relationship and learn more
about each other in ways only travel can reveal.
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| Said to be the tallest bridge in the country, Agas-Agas bridge in Southern Leyte |
"As a couple
who’s traveled together for over a decade, we’re pretty in sync when it comes
to teamwork on the road," says Gelyka. But the loop pushed them to new
levels of patience and understanding. "This trip really helped us see each
other’s strengths and weaknesses more clearly," Ramir reflects.
While he took the
reins on navigation and route planning, Gelyka managed the logistical side:
booking accommodation, finding places to eat, and handling ferry tickets, gas
stations, and laundry.
The couple admits
that their North Luzon leg wasn’t without its challenges. "We had a few misunderstandings
with navigation that led us off course—definitely not ideal under the scorching
sun," says Ramir. But the experience was a lesson in adaptability.
"By the time we reached VisMin (Visayas and Mindanao), we were determined
to do things better," Gelyka adds.
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| Getting to know a town means stopping by a public market |
After taking a
week-long break at home, they returned to the road with a renewed sense of
purpose. "We made sure to check in with each other, discussing what worked
and what didn’t, always trying to improve with each new leg of the
journey."
After passing
through a total of 45 provinces and spending approximately 120,000 pesos on
food, gas, accommodations, ferry fares, and various tourist activities, Ramir
and Gelyka's 43-day journey—including a week of rest after the Northern Luzon
leg, finally drew to a close.
Yet for Gelyka, the
conclusion only signals the start of future adventures. "Once you’ve
completed the Philippine Loop for the first time, it’s impossible not to return
for another ride," she said.
As they sailed on
their final ferry ride from Mindoro to Batangas, Gelyka reflects on the
emotional moment. "I was a bit emotional, sipping my cup of coffee,"
she admits. "I couldn’t believe it was over and that tomorrow we’d wake up
at home instead of somewhere on the road, gearing up for the next adventure. I
was feeling ‘sepanx’, a sense of longing. At that moment, we both knew we’d be
back."
