They say the third time’s the charm. But in Batanes, the northernmost province of the Philippines, each of my three visits has carried its own distinct magic. My first trip, over a decade ago, involved pedaling halfway across Batan Island on a rented bicycle. It happened to coincide with a town fiesta, and my friends and I were warmly welcomed into local homes, where we feasted on traditional Ivatan dishes and experienced generous hospitality.
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| Postcard-images at every turn of the head |
I
returned in 2019, and Batanes despite my earlier familiarity of it still appeared,
remote, windswept, and mysterious. Retracing my steps from Batan to Sabtang,
this time with a few fellow travel writers, I was once again mesmerized by the
province’s dramatic landscapes. The only downside of this return trip was that
rough seas prevented us from crossing to Itbayat Island, the more secluded of
the three main islands of Batanes.
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| Uyugan Hills in Sabtang Island from my second visit in 2019. |
On
this latest trip to the province as part of the Department of Tourism’s
“Philippine Experience” caravan, a program that highlights each region of the
country to create model tourism circuits focused on culture, heritage, cuisine,
nature, and wellness, I was once again reminded of Batanes’ magnetism.
A
Mix of Fascinating Culture and Wonderful Nature
Nowhere
is a local culture more tangible than in the quiet village of Chavayan
on Sabtang Island. Here, narrow streets weave between traditional stone houses
built to withstand typhoons, and where the art of making vakul and kanayi
remains very much alive, thanks to the members of the Sabtang Weavers
Association. The vakul, a headpiece crafted from dried voyavoy leaves
(Philippine date palm), shields Ivatan women from the harsh elements, while the
kanayi, a thick, handwoven vest worn by men when farming, speaks of both
function and identity. Together, these traditional garments embody the Ivatan
people’s relationship with their rugged environment. Witnessing these cultures
and traditions still intact made our trip to Chavayan the highlight of our
second day in Batanes.
On
our return to Sabtang Port, we passed through Savidug village, home to
several traditional houses constructed from limestone and coral. Alongside
Chavayan, Savidug has become one of Batanes' most significant cultural
attractions. These stone houses holds a special place in my memory vault,
recalling my homestay experience in Chavayan back in 2014.
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| A typical stone house in Savidug Village |
Other places we stopped by at Sabtang Island also includes Morong Beach where Nakabuang Arch, an arch-shaped rock formation sculpted by centuries of wind and tide, forms a surreal gateway to a long stretch of shoreline.
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| The long stretch of Morong beach and the Nakabuang Arch |
The participants of the
Philippine Experience Batanes leg also took time to visit the Saint Vincent
Ferrer Parish Church, whose current structure dates back to 1844. It is one
of the Jubilee Churches in the country and a declared National Historical
Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines.
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| The façade of the St Vincent Ferrer Parish Church |
Following
our morning arrival on the island of Batan, home to the provincial capital of
Basco and its namesake airport, we got a glimpse of the province’s spiritual
heritage as we began our tour with a mini-Visita Iglesia. First stop: the Cathedral
of the Immaculate Conception, more commonly known as Basco Cathedral,
situated across from the town plaza. From there, we visited San Jose de
Obrero Church, facing the port of Ivana, and the baroque-style San
Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao, honored as a National Cultural Treasure
by the National Museum of the Philippines.
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| Lobsters for lunch |
After
exploring Batanes’ spiritual heritage, we sought deeper insights into the
history and culture of the Ivatan people by visiting several cultural and
historical landmarks. Among them was the Castaño Ruins, a 1933 former
home of Valentine and Catalina Castaño, built from lime, sand, and boulders. We
also visited the House of Dakay, constructed in 1877 for the family of
Jose Estrella. Showcasing traditional Ivatan architecture with thick stone
walls and a thatched cogon roof, it is the only house that survived the
powerful earthquake of September 13, 1918.
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| House of Dakay |
In
a province where crime is virtually nonexistent and police intervention
typically involves minor neighborly disputes; honesty is woven into the fabric
of daily life. It’s no surprise that the concept of the "Honesty
Store" first emerged in Batanes. Established in 1995 by Ivatan couple Jose
and Elena Gabilo, the Honesty Coffee Shop is a powerful symbol of trust.
Operating without a cashier, it relies on customers to self-checkout,
reflecting the Ivatan people's unwavering commitment to honesty and community
integrity.
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| Blow ur Horn |
“Blow
your horn” has become an iconic phrase in Batanes. Unlike the honking chaos
of city traffic, here it’s a courteous gesture, a gentle signal of respect to
oncoming vehicles and the occasional free-roaming cow or goat sharing the
scenic roads. One of the most photographed “Blow Your Horn” signs can be
found at the picturesque part of the National Road near the rolling hills and
rock formations of Alapad. It's not just a traffic reminder, it’s yet another
reminder of Batanes’ refined etiquette that expands even on the road.
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| Inside the National Museum of the Philippines - Batanes |
While many are drawn to Batanes for its cinematic landscapes, the newly reopened National Museum of the Philippines (NMP) – Batanes, one of NMP’s 17 component museums in the Philippines, offers a deeper look into the province’s cultural roots. Located near Alapad Hill and overlooking Imnajbu-Itbud Beach, the museum occupies a former U.S. Coast Guard LORAN station, first converted into a museum in 2012 and renovated in 2023 with a modern design. Its permanent exhibit, Ínamuhun: The Natural and Cultural Heritage of Batanes, features archaeological finds, ethnographic artifacts, and displays of local flora and fauna - offering visitors a rare window into the island’s ecological and cultural identity.
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| Rock en Rolla |
Basco’s
Valugan Boulder Beach isn’t your typical barefoot shoreline. Here, white
sand is replaced by smooth volcanic boulders, polished by time and waves.
Unlike the easygoing vibe of a powdery beach, Valugan offers a moodier
atmosphere perfect for clearing your head or filming a cinematic slow-motion
walk as you hop from one massive stone to the next.
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| The sweeping scenery surrounding Tayid lighthouse |
Batan
Island’s twin lighthouses; Basco Lighthouse and Tayid Lighthouse,
aren’t just for guiding ships; they’re also becoming popular in the destination
wedding industry. What’s there not to like? With cinematic views of rolling
hills, the endless ocean, and winds that blows your hair like you’re in a
romcom film, the romance is set in. We’re talking alfresco meals that make your
usual outdoor dining feel basic, just like what we experienced during our
sunset dinner at Basco followed by a sun-drenched lunch the next day at Tayid.
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| A set-up of the Philippine Experience event held in Basco Lighthouse |
We
capped our Philippine Experience tour with a visit to two hilltop locations on
opposite sides of Batan Island. On the eastern-central side, we found ourselves
frolicking like cows on the grassy knolls of Racuh a Payaman, more
popularly known as Marlboro Country, a nickname inspired by the 1980’s tv
commercials of Marlboro featuring cowboys herding cattle across wide open
fields.
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| Jumping for joy at Racuh a Payaman from my 2nd visit in 2019 |
The
name Racuh a Payaman comes from the Ivatan language: racuh meaning “vast
land” and payaman translating to “pastureland.” Located in Mahatao,
Batan Island, this sweeping landscape of rolling hills serves as communal
grazing grounds for local farmers’ cows and carabaos. Towering in the
background is Mt. Iraya, its name loosely translating to “upward slope”
in Ivatan, an active stratovolcano standing at 3,310 feet, the highest peak in
Batanes. Its majestic presence adds even more charm to the view and stirs my
own wish to return, as I’ve dreamed of climbing it since the first time I laid
eyes on it.
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| Chilling at Vayang Hills while waiting for the sunset |
On
the western-central side of Batan Island, we spent our final afternoon waiting
for the sunset atop a grassy mound in the vast expanse of Vayang Rolling
Hills. Despite our Philippine Experience Batanes contingent numbering a few
dozens, the openness of the landscape offered enough space for solitude. I
easily found freedom to run and climb a couple of hilltops, reclaiming a sense
of quiet amidst the crowd.
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| Chill pa more |
Joining
a few fellow members of the media and photographers, I settled on one of the
ridges and watched as the light softened over the hills. In that moment, as
golden hues covered the landscape, I recall memories of my previous two visits
to Batanes, grateful for the good fortune of returning a third time.
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| A Vakul maker in Sabtang Island |
That
sunset watching experience turned out to be a gentle pause, one of reflection
set against the incomparable beauty of a place that now appear to me as both
distant and familiar.
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| A lola wearing a vakul |
After
four days of traveling along narrow coastal roads and crossing the sea to
another island, one thing stood out clearly: Batanes resists overexposure. Its
lasting appeal lies not just in its scenery, but in its spirit. For travelers
like me, it remains a place worth returning to-not just once or twice, but
whenever the opportunity arises.
Batanes Takes Spotlight
in DOT’s Philippine Experience Caravan
The
Philippine Experience Program, a flagship initiative by the Department of
Tourism (DOT), promotes heritage-rich travel across the country. Designed to
broaden domestic tourism circuits, the program highlights immersive cultural
itineraries focusing on Filipino traditions, local gastronomy, religious and
wellness sites, and the arts.
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| DOT Secretary Christina Frasco being interviewed by the media |
After
wrapping up regional legs in Central Luzon, Calabarzon, Western Visayas,
Soccsksargen, Caraga, the Cordilleras, Davao, Palawan, Northern Mindanao,
Bicol, and the Zamboanga Peninsula, the cultural caravan recently made its way
to the country’s northernmost province of Batanes.
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| The DOT also held a groundbreaking ceremony of a Tourist Rest Area in Sabtang Island |
Renowned
for its dramatic cliffs, rolling hills, and time-honored Ivatan culture,
Batanes provided a striking backdrop for the latest leg of the program.
Alongside tourism stakeholders, the delegation included media representatives,
social media influencers, and diplomats from Australia, Sri Lanka, Thailand,
Vietnam, and Malaysia. The group traveled along the winding roads of Batan
Island and sailed across to Sabtang, one of the archipelago’s most culturally
intact destinations.
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| Young students after welcoming guests with a cultural performance |
The
stop in Batanes forms part of the DOT’s broader mission to revitalize tourism
in areas long impacted by natural disasters. Batanes' tourism sector, still
recovering from devastating typhoons in 2004, is being reintroduced to both
local and foreign audiences through this curated cultural showcase.
“low-volume, high-value tourism”
Batanes is embracing a shift toward
balanced tourism, with local stakeholders advocating for a manageable number of
visitors to preserve the archipelago's cultural and natural integrity. Tour
guide Remedios Santos, active since 2008, emphasizes maintaining the ideal
number of tourists to protect the island's quality. "We want our culture
to remain well-maintained and orderly," she says. Ed Delfin of the Batanes
Tour Guides Association echoes this sentiment, warning against uncontrolled
growth that could harm the islands' ecosystem, as seen in destinations like
Boracay and Siargao.
The
high cost of travel to Batanes, about P12,000 for a one-way flight, naturally
helps regulate tourist numbers, aligning with the community's sustainable
tourism efforts. While foreign interest in promoting Batanes remains, the
province's commitment ensures that any influx stays within its ideal capacity.
In 2024, the island welcomed just over 13,000 tourists, down from 50,000 in
2018, signaling a shift from quantity to quality. This focus on sustainability
earned Batanes international recognition as the first Philippine member of the United
Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO)’s International Network of
Sustainable Tourism Observatories.
Pro
Tip: Don’t Just Come for the ‘Gram
While
anyone who sets foot on the waving landscape of Batanes would be forgiven for
snapping countless photos against its postcard-perfect backdrops, travelers are
encouraged to look beyond the Instagram appeal.
Though
many still prefer to explore on their own, the Department of Tourism recommends
hiring one of the province’s DOT-accredited tour guides not just for logistics,
but to engage in conversation and gain deeper insight into Ivatan culture as
they journey through the islands.
