I woke up to the cold January weather of Rishikesh caught in between wanting to stay snuggled under my blanket or start my exploration early. Half-dazed, I forced myself to saunter across the room feeling the iciness of the bathroom floor hurrying to find comfort from a hot shower. Fully awake, I plotted my day thinking about a myriad of things do: try a new dish, go temple hopping, feed some monkeys, hang out by the Ganges, find a charming a café or rent a motorbike.

However, the lure of laying eyes on a place that has caught my fascination since I started reading about the Beatles, reigned more on me. First things first, I told myself. Imma kick-start my almost weeklong stay in Rishikesh by visiting what remains of the ashram that embellished Paul, John, Ringo and George—with a little help from their friends—mystical motivation to achieve creative high penning staggering 48 songs, most of which ended up on their double album "White Album".

None of life's strings can last. None can be truer than the state of the Beatles’ ashram today. Known then as the International Academy of Meditation founded by Indian guru Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, the ashram today is a picture of scattered ruins of mural-painted walls overrun by overgrown bush.

Maharishi, who first met the Beatles in 1967 and later became their spiritual advisor, invited the group in the winter of ‘68 to study his devised Transcendental Meditation technique. The Beatles joined by their respective wives, along with Scottish singer Donovan, actress Mia Farrow, her sister and Beach Boys' Mike Love, studied the guru's meditation method from February until a falling out with Maharishi among the circle culminated in the group’s series of departures from India in April—with John Lennon and George Harrison being the two last to leave.

The band's brief stay at the ashram provided the group with a creative rejuvenation delivering them their most productive period of songwriting. Lennon credited his experience in Rishikesh for writing some of his most miserable and best songs. "We wrote about thirty new songs between us," Lennon said. "Paul must have done about a dozen. George says he's got six, and I wrote fifteen. And look what meditation did for Ringo – after all this time he wrote his first song."

As fleeting as it was the Beatles’ time in Rishikesh, it remains as one of the most talked-about and integral part of the band’s story analogous to their foremost overseas trip to Hamburg, Germany in 1960 and their first visit to America in 1964.

The trip to India and the band’s episode in Rishikesh is also seen as a symbolic curtain drop on the group’s monumental history as this was the last time the fabulous four musicians traveled together. After the Maharishi stopped operating the ashram in the 1970's and the lease on the land expired in 1981, it undergone years of neglect letting mother nature took over. In 2015, the ashram was reopened to the public as part of Rishikesh heritage structures trail.

Dressed aptly for a 14 °C beautiful morning, I stepped out the into the streets of Rishikesh among yogis, backpackers like me, locals on motorcycles and tuk-tuks, sadhus adorned in saffron robes, moseying cows and—upon crossing Lakshman Jhula bridge—mischievous monkeys.

Walking over footpaths parallel to the sacred Ganges River, I consulted my Google Map and upon thinking that the ashram doesn't look too far away—a miscalculation that had me walking at least 11 kilometers—I decided to just keep on walking. I passed by temples filled with morning worshippers chanting and Ghats dotted with religious bathers as occasionally, a red and blue kayak filled with tourists on a river kayaking tour slices through the Ganges.

Through small alleys flanked by bazaar booths on both side, I resisted stopping on a quaint cafe or food joint serving thali meals as I really want to start my day in search of Zen inside the Beatles' ashram. Despite a slow walk, I reached the gates of the ashram half an hour before it opens. The guard tells me "You are too early my friend, you can sit first and wait for opening"

Today, the ashram is where you can find a riot of arresting street art dominating its peeled-off walls, that was part of mural essays created by street artists forming the 'Beatles Ashram Mural Project' which was founded in 2012. Aside from the mural paintings, lyrical lines such as "with every mistake we must surely be learning" from a George Harrison-penned song, can be read scribbled on random walls.

Spread over 14 acres of forested land now concealing a legacy of 1960s transcendental meditation and spiritual counterculture, the ashram reveals a once fabled place where a community once thrived all in search of nirvana on Earth.

When the gates finally opened, I was the first guest to be let inside. It would take another half an hour before I saw other guests trickled in. By that time, I had made my way through the grounds of the ashram. With weary feet, I sat on the front steps of the Beatles’ old dormitory where George used to practice his sitar every morning. Sensing hunger but with my sense of wonder satisfied, I hummed aloud to myself, “And when the brokenhearted people living in the world agree, there will be an answer, let it be”

From where I sit on a balcony of a hilltop hotel, I can see the many monuments built during the era of the Bundelas—a Rajput clan of Central India who lorded over this part of Madhya Pradesh beginning in the 16th century. In that moment I savored the solemnity of finding myself some quiet time in-between our busy media tour. Trailing my eyes from the top of an opposite hill into the rows of houses below, I became perplexed at the sight of jam-packed edifices below.

As if sensing my confusion, our tour guide pointed to me "look at the center, and you will see Chaubisi Jain Temple. It has more than 20 shikharas (towers) and over there is the Chanderi Fort". Following the direction of his finger, I got the idea of how compressed the town of Chanderi was fashioned through centuries of blossoming trade, religion and culture.

Enveloped by the forested ridges of the Vindhya mountain range and dotted with glass-like lakes, it is easy to see why this town became the site of a flourishing economy dating back to the 11th century. The population of Chanderi peaked to hundreds of thousands when a branch of the Silk Route passed through it.

During the British rule in the 19th century, Chanderi was cut off from the Silk Road highway—consequently dwindling trade activities—and eventually, slashing its population to a half. Despite losing much of its past economic luster, Chanderi remains a 'major center of Jain culture' and one of the most historic towns in India.

In a nation rich with the birthplaces of diverse spiritual traditions, I embraced the opportunity to learn a new one: Jainism. Older than Buddhism and sharing many similarities with Hinduism, Jainism also teaches the principles of reincarnation, peace, non-attachment to material possessions, and the pursuit of good karma.

Despite the many likenesses with Hinduism, Jainism practitioners only comprises less than 2% of India’s population. Beautiful remains of Jain temples can be found all over Chanderi; one of which is the 45-feet tall rock cut portrait of Rishabhanatha (who in Jainism belief—is the teacher of rebirth and death and propagator of the Dharma).

As we go about our exploration of Chanderi, we laid eyes on some of the town’s finest architectural marvel from centuries past; Koshak Mahal, Badal Mahal Gate, Jama Masjid and Chanderi Fort. Even in ruins, the Mandu-style architecture of Koshak Mahal remains a stunner. It's derelict condition only highlighted the beautiful arches more, as it leads your eyes to a maze of fascinating patterns.

Originally envisioned as a victory monument to rise 7-storeys high by Mahmud Khilji—a 15th-century sultan of the Indian Kingdom of Malwa Sultanate (present day Madhya Pradesh state), but only two of the three-storeys were constructed during his lifetime. Despite its unfinished state, it remains as an architectural eye-candy to this day.

The 13th century Jama Masjid is Chanderi's biggest mosque highlighted by an open court leading to the square hall that can sit 2,000 devotees. Exhibiting a hint of Mughal architecture, and a unique set of intricately designed pillars, the mosque stands in perfect cohort to the 15th century Badal Mahal Gate—a 100-foot historic gate built by Sultan Shah Khilji, standing across the street.

Built upon the orders of Pratihara, Kirti Pal in the 11th century, Chanderi Fort has since saw numerous renovations in the succeeding centuries, as it fell into the hands of one conqueror from one kingdom to another.

The walls that remain heavily fortified today was the result of buttresses reinforcement constructed by the men of Mughal Emperor Babur after conquering Chanderi in the early 16th century. One chilling spot inside the fort is called the 'Johar Smarak'. This was where dozens of Rajput women chose self-immolation over capture, after one of Rajput's most decorated warrior Medini Rai, died against the army of Mughal Emperor Babur.

After capturing Chanderi in 1586, the victorious Bundela Rajputs constructed the palace inside the fort. Because Chanderi was once an integral part of a trading route leading to the ancient port of Gujarat, it became a hotly-contested location between the Mughal and Hindu Rajput rulers.

After hearing about these enthralling facts about Chanderi Fort, I hurriedly separated myself from our group to explore the rest of the place. Compared to the other forts I visited in India, Chanderi Fort appear a lot smaller. But what they said about how small things create a broader impact in history? —I saw this place as a fitting representation of that adage.

Living up to my belief that India is a nation swarming with locations full of engrossing tales, the little old-world town of Chanderi dishes a spectacular set of visual feasts, historic anecdotes and charming vibe that shall certainly add up to one’s wanderlust attraction to India.

As we make our way through the vast Rajasthan desert from Jaipur and Jodphur, the golden-colored terrain seems as familiar as the blue skies above. The contrast of colors in this part of India added an extra layer of visual interest to our journey. We have also developed a routine which includes bazaar hopping, street food exploration, and stepping inside centuries-old palaces and giant forts.

Nevertheless, my sense of wonder and pursuit of the oddity lit up as we approached the City Palace of Udaipur on foot. Massive in scale and rich in architectural details, I immediately felt a tinge of royal vibe as we enter the 'Badi Pol' (Great Gate) leading to the Palace's first of many courtyards. Udaipur, being known as "the City of Lakes", lavishes travelers with a picturesque body of water surrounded with a flair of royal heritage—in the form of impressive forts and regal palaces.

The City Palace which overlooks Lake Pichola is one of them. There's also Jag Mandir—a small palace built on a tiny islet and the Lake Palace which stands on a larger island. It was only a few minutes into our walk towards the lake side when a local approached us pointing to something in the middle of the lake. "That palace was where James Bond Octopussy was shot", he told us proudly.

The City Palace was first constructed at the same time Udaipur was founded as a city by Marahana Udai Sing II of the then ruling Mewar Kingdom in 1559. From the initial Rai Angan courtyard, construction spread rapidly to include numerous Royal residences, gardens, function halls and gateways. The whole construction phase spanned 22 generations of Sisodia Rajputs rulers covering hundreds of years from 1559 onwards.

Designed with Rajput Architecture, the City Palace houses eye-popping details and interiors dotting the whole complex from towering balconies, intricate mirror and marble-work to stunning remnants of mural paintings, silver work and colored glass.

Just by looking at the looming façade of the City Palace of Udaipur, you’d easily compare it to the other Forts built all over Rajasthan. As imposing it appears from the outside, stepping inside takes you to another dimension highlighted by a labyrinth of passageways and hallways leading to various rooms showcasing historical artifacts depicting the journey of the Mewar Kingdom to present-day Udaipur.

Former Royal halls are now transformed into museums displaying artworks dating back to the height of the Mewar Kingdom. My friend Aileen and I would often separate from each other as we explore through what appears to be a fun-maze of Architectural marvel. From one room to the next, I never ran out of fine details to ogle at. Whether it was a door, a window, a glass panel or a mural piece, everything seem to arrest my attention.

Alighting at the rooftop courtyard, I proceeded to the balcony to survey the view of the city below. Feeling happily exhausted at collecting new knowledge while pleasing my visual sense, I muster back my energy with a cold bottle of drink in hand. For a few precious minutes, I savored not only Udaipur's cool wind but also of some royal vibe that has been etched for many generations within the walls of the City Palace.

As I was letting every second of being awed linger gratifyingly, I fixated my thoughts on the massive walls of Gwalior Fort. I started wondering about the stories of resilient kingdoms and bloody battles it conceals. Like peeling off layers of a paint, I survey the colossal architectural grandeur of the 8^th century structure before me and briefly imagined being transported in time.

As if voicing out aloud what's in my head, I hear our tour guide narrating how the Fort changed hands during its height of significance. "The fort has seen several changes, throughout its history. It came under the rule of the Rajput, then the Mughals, the Mamluks, the Huns and the Akbars, Suris, Marathas and even the British".

If only the walls of Gwalior Fort could talk, it would reverberate with never-ending battle cries, yells of triumph and cries of defeat. The sheer amount of history it has witnessed fills every inch of its 3 square kilometer area. Originating from a smaller fort first constructed strategically atop Gopachal Hill by a local king Suraj Sen in the 3^rd century, the bigger portion of the fort were constructed beginning as early as the 6^th century according to inscriptions found inside detailing a sun temple built during the reign of Mihirakula—who ruled Central India from 502-530.

While the outer walls appear like a painting due to the varying intricate designs, the fort also houses various temples and palaces adorned with diverse architectural styles—thanks to the sundry tastes of a list of rulers who lorded over the fort.

After a pleasing time regaling at the picturesque outer walls of the fort, we gingerly walked behind one of the mammoth gates—and instantly—as if hurtling our group inside a time machine to the past. A fascinating set of architectural-marvels greeted us: intricately carved walls, giant stonewashed doors and moss-covered ceilings, all super-sized to fit the spacious fort grounds, combined for a hodgepodge of painterly details.

Likening the mood to the ones I’ve had visiting other forts in India—especially in the state of Rajasthan—which is falling into some sort of historical envisioning, I darted my mind to the time when Babur, the founder of the mighty Mughal empire, captured the fort only to lose it to the Hindu General Hemu and having his grandson Akbar recapturing it many years later.

Mirroring the Taj Mahal in Agra, Gwalior Fort is also a setting to some of the Mughal empire’s infamous events. It was here where Aurangzeb (remember him? the one who jailed his father Shah Jahan—builder of The Taj Mahal—in Agra Fort) had his brother Murad and nephews Sepher and Suleman executed.

After bidding goodbyes with my fellow travel writers and the staff from Madhya Pradesh Tourism Office (as part of the post-Madhya Pradesh Travel Mart FamTrip), I opted to extend my stay in Gwalior for a couple of days. I took advantage of my alone time by going back to the Fort. This time, I made my way to the 300-feet Gopachal Hill on foot.

On my way up on the side of the steep curving road heading to Gwalior Fort, I saw the 7^th century rock-cut Gopachal Parvat Jain Monuments. Spanning hundreds of meters, these boulder-carved shrines were built from the 7^th century until the 15^th century. Regaling at the intricate details of each statue gave me an opportunity to rest as well, so I milked every delightful detail until my interest was piqued by the deities of the Jain Tirthankaras.

The Tirthankaras—said to be the spiritual teachers of the “dharma way” or the “righteous path”—are presented in a seated Padmasana and a standing Kayotsarga postures. A few hundred meters away, another series of carved monuments can be seen including the 57 feet image of Adinatha (another famous Tirthankara).

As I arrived back on the top of the hill just a stone-throw away from the thick walls of Gwalior Fort, I sat on a ridge and stared at the view of the city below. I imagined being one of the watchmen during one of the bloody wars of many centuries ago. Just when I was starting to picture in my head the deathly spears flying in the air, a flock of doves flew by on top of me and a group of young students alighted out of their bus.

I delighted at the thought that a new group of people—especially them young ones—will have their turn in learning the many enthralling stories hidden inside the thick walls of Gwalior Fort.