Mandalay was a place I regretted not seeing during my first visit to Myanmar in 2013 with friends. Things were different during my return trip in 2016, when additional days worked on my side. After almost a week of exploring the vast plains of Bagan aboard an e-motorcycle, I made the half-day land trip to the former royal capital of Myanmar.
A Cycling Tour and a Kababayan Encounter in Mandalay | Myanmar
Dizzy and tired from the sleeper bus journey, I relaxed for a few minutes at my accommodation—the Hotel by the Red Canal—before setting out to explore the food scene of the city.
In stark contrast to Old Bagan, the streets of Mandalay slightly mirrored the bustling local scene of Yangon, with motorcycles, automobiles, and public buses coming at you from all directions and blaring their horns at one another. I spent the rest of the afternoon walking around downtown Mandalay before taking a short nap back in my room. At sunset, I once again went out not only to do more sightseeing but also to meet a Filipina expat in Mandalay whom I had matched through the ever-reliable travel app, Tinder.
First Sunset and Karaoke Night
While walking to the meeting place I had set up with Rhodora, I caught a glimpse of the spectacular sunset descending over the fringes of Mandalay Hill and reflecting beautifully on the waters of the Mandalay Palace moat. Clichéd as it sounds, it was one of the most arresting sunsets I had ever seen.
Since I was early for our planned dinner, I lingered for a bit at a park where I watched dozens of locals performing various exercises. I thought about running one or two laps around the oval path but decided against it, as I could not arrive drenched in sweat to meet a new friend.
An hour later, I found myself seated at a table with four people enjoying some of the finest Mandalay dishes and engaging in a lively conversation about expat life in Myanmar. Rhodora brought along a couple of fellow Filipina English teachers, Mileth and Rose. Among the three, Mileth had been working in the country the longest.
What Myanmar was like before hordes of tourists started arriving in the country prior to opening its doors to mass tourism more than a decade ago was fascinating to hear. We capped our engrossing dinner with a karaoke session at the city’s lone karaoke bar until midnight.
A Cycle Tour of Mandalay
The next morning, I woke up feeling a bit buzzed from the previous night’s fun meet-up with new friends. After a full breakfast and a brief tour of the grounds of the Hotel by the Red Canal, I borrowed one of its bicycles to explore the city.
Although I had ample time to tick off most items listed on "places to see in Mandalay" guides, I decided to spend most of the day on a relaxed bicycle ride around town. My first stop was Mandalay Hill, which stands two hundred forty meters high, where the Sutaungpyei Pagoda sitting on top offers a splendid panoramic view of Mandalay.
Smaller pagodas and monasteries were also situated on top of the hill, making it a popular pilgrimage site for Buddhists for almost two centuries. After parking my bicycle, I began climbing the covered stairway snaking up the hillside from different directions.
At the peak, I met some local kids who asked where I was from and witnessed a small procession of children dressed in vibrant costumes. Someone told me that this was a "Shinbyu" or a novitiation ceremony—a Theravada Buddhist tradition celebrating the monastic ordination of a young boy.
Followed by several long-tailed macaques, I walked toward a small terrace and sat idly for an hour, staring at the bustling streets of Mandalay from below. I remember feeling a bit overwhelmed by a sense of melancholy at the time, as I was only a few months removed from a romantic breakup.
However, that moment brought home the realization that being alone was not such a bad thing. I recalled a quote from a movie I had seen years prior: “The greatest of men are the loneliest.” Not that I saw myself as someone remarkable; rather, it is moments like this—when I can explore and satisfy my curiosity about the world on a whim—that constitute the exquisiteness of being in a state of solitude.
Being married to the road sounded more like it. I would eventually have another shot at romance, but the desire to be on the road would remain, forever accompanying my thoughts and endless wonder.
Reflecting on my life at the time, I also collected myself and headed down the steep stairway. I spent the rest of the afternoon cycling through random street corners before stopping by the Shwenandaw Monastery.
Situated near the foot of Mandalay Hill, this monastery holds immense historical and religious significance for Buddhists. Built in 1878 by King Thibaw Min, it is known for its intricate teak carvings of Buddhist tales seen on its ceilings and walls. Designed with traditional Burmese architecture, it remains the only original structure inside the Royal Palace complex grounds.
A short distance away sits the sprawling Mandalay Palace, where other pagodas and former royal residences can be seen—all showcasing a fine display of architectural details.
Before heading back to Bagan the next day, I once again met up with Rhodora and Mileth and, for one last time, their company added to my already wonderful experience in Mandalay.
