Anytime you found your way to the largest Buddhist temple in the world, you felt like toasting your kismet for bringing you there. Just the mere fact of stepping foot on a structure built with stunning craftsmanship and creativity dating back to the ninth century was already a significant moment for myself. Borobudur was the primary reason why I journeyed to the city of Yogyakarta—which at the time was my longest train ride from Jakarta. It was one of those places forever etched in my mind as something I must see.
Murmurs of Awe at Borobudur | Yogyakarta, Indonesia
My first sighting of Borobudur was against the open blue skies, and as expected: a smorgasbord of rich details. I stared at it for a long time, unmindful of the hot rays of sunlight hitting my face, as if memorizing its architectural patterns. I circled it with slow steps, eyes wide open, after climbing the stairs to get as close to it as possible, while murmuring in awe at the intricate stone carvings depicting scenes of Buddhist transformation.
The first level of the multi-tiered Borobudur temple showed everyday images of earthly life, such as a feast, daily household work, and warfare. As one climbed up the successive levels, one would notice the bas-reliefs focusing more on Gautama Buddha's journey to enlightenment. Following that, one would come across statues of more than five hundred Buddhas. At the uppermost platform, one would see the Buddhist cosmology story surrounding the temple represented by seventy-two bell-shaped stupas (each one hiding a Buddha statue inside) positioned like night watchmen directing their stares at the lowlands and the nearby Mount Merapi.
A Swedish couple whom I shared a van with asked me to be their unofficial photographer. I happily obliged with the intention of asking them to take a couple of photos of myself as well. It turned out to be a fair trade since I never bothered bringing a tripod.
As a result, I got a few 'touristy landmark poses' on my memory card. I guessed the couple liked the photos I took of them based on their smiles. Their presence also highlighted a sad fact about being a solo traveler (that was my second out-of-country trip as a lone traveler), as it made me wish I was holding an adventurous girl's hand as we savored the wind coming from all corners while standing at the uppermost layer of Borobudur.
That what-if thought vanished as quickly as it had entered my mind. Undaunted, I discovered new reasons to enjoy the location. As I continued my circle, I noticed a few pilgrims gathered near a stupa, deeply immersed in solemn prayers. I trudged carefully, taking care not to cause a commotion by tripping over one of them.
There was a lot to see around the Borobudur complex, and despite the crowds, one could still find a quiet spot to be still and even meditate. I sat on the floor, taking a brief rest while fixing my gaze on the walls, which were richly carved with vivid images. It was like reading a graphic novel, with each section telling a different story. I swore I could hear chisel clippings from the finest artists and sculptors of the ninth century if I used my imagination.
I took another rest on one of the highest steps, that time looking toward Mount Merapi, an active volcano that had threatened Borobudur during its eruption in 2010. Strangely, the silent echoes of other travelers' low-voice conversations were muffled, and the only sounds I heard were the hissing winds.
Because Borobudur's endearing message was about discovering one's own enlightenment, I recognized that I had yet to find mine. Despite the fact that Gautama took a long time to accomplish it, he did so by taking a step closer among thousands more. As I walked away from the temple, I turned around and took one last long look at the massive Borobudur temple.
After a few minutes, a Chinese woman nudged me from behind and asked me to photograph her and her husband. When I looked through the viewfinder on her camera, I saw two smiling faces against a spellbinding background. As I handed back her camera, I felt a surge of happiness because I knew they were about to climb the temple and, like me, become one step closer to enlightenment.
