The first time I cruised
aboard an inter-island ferry boat was many years ago. Our destination was Puerto Galera, Oriental Mindoro. Wide-eyed with wonder, I found myself swimming in crystal
clear waters and frolicking over white sandy beaches for the first time in my
adolescent life. Sandwiched in our ocean fun spree was a hiking trip to Mount
Malasimbo. A year after that, I returned with my mates from the UST
Mountaineering Club for our induction climb to Mount Halcon.
Since then I’ve always
associated Oriental Mindoro with the beaches of Puerto Galera, the dense forest of
Halcon, the Malasimbo Music Festival and the quaint town of Calapan. And
despite venturing as far out to its twin province Occidental Mindoro, to
explore the Apo Reef, I never realized the region still has more to offer.
A recent visit to the
province introduced me to Bulalacao, the southernmost town of
Oriental Mindoro. The name of the municipality's name translates to “meteor” and has different versions of how it came to be. The first legend says it was derived from tales about a flock of mythical birds called
'bulalacao', which appears whenever people
are sick and mysteriously cures them. The second one was about
how a meteor crashed and created the many islands in Bulalacao bay.
Regardless of these origins, the locals seem to find
humor with the town's old moniker "Bula-layo", where the suffix
"layo" translates to "far". It was a bit a distant indeed,
as it takes 3 hours by land from the capital Calapan to reach town, as it lies literally next
to Occidental Mindoro.
With the wealth of
discovery and adventure we had, it’s safe to say the long journey here by sea and land is
very much worth the undertaking.
Island Spotting around Bulalacao Bay
As an incoming typhoon
threatens the rest of Luzon, it was sunny when we started our island
hopping. We were greeted by a generous sun shower as we boarded our boat. The
ample sunshine gave the water a majestic sheen off the blueness of the
sky. As soon as our boat picked up speed, we started sighting the dotted islands
from afar.
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| Eager to make a splash on the clear waters was Kara Santos of Travel Up |
There are around 11
islands and islets scattered throughout Bulalacao Bay and visiting each can
last you a day or two. The first island we came to was Aslom Island, one of the bigger island in the bay measuring 12
hectares with a crescent shaped sandbar that stretches along shoreline where visitors can chill and relax.
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| Hannah and Mica explores the first island we visited. |
The next island we visited
was Target Island, named as such
because it was the US Air Force’ bombing practice site during World War II.
The bomb drops created rugged craters and carved out interesting
patterns on the rock formations. Despite its violent past, the island is still very
appealing with a scenic coastline leading to a lake in the middle of the
island.
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| Approaching Target Island |
We reached Tambaron Island before lunch time and spent more than an hour just
chilling here. Surrounded by coral-rich waters teeming with marine biodiversity
suitable for snorkeling and diving, it is an ideal place for visitors to
stay for a night or two, thanks to the few cabanas that front the island.
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| Tambaron Island is perfect for a sweet and lowdown kind of day |
Suguicay, the most popular beach in Bulalacao Bay, was our final stop. We returned to the mainland and took a short road trip to Bangkal Port, where we walked over a 300-meter wooden bridge protruding from a mangrove forest out into the open sea and marveled at the breathtaking scenery. We took a half-hour boat ride from here to Suguicay, where adventure activities awaited us.
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| The long and scenic walk |
Extreme Adventures at Suguicay Island
After a feasting on local cuisines, including the very interesting and fine-tasting Pasyak shellfish stewed with ginger, coconut milk, vinegar and soy sauce, we jumped right into the activities offered by the Bulalacao Island Adventures.
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| Me and fellow blogger Tiki during the tandem parasailing |
An outdoor company
previously based in Boracay, they now offer parasailing, fly fish and banana
boat activities in the island. After exhausting our arms during the wild but fun Fly Fish ride, and since the sky was gloomy, we spent the whole afternoon bumming around the island.
Just as I was about to give up waiting for the sky to clear, we felt the whiffling of gentle winds an hour before sunset, enough for the crew of Bulalacao Island Adventures to summon us to begin our tandem parasailing.
We took off in pairs and flew over the island of Suguicay. I found the experience very Zen-like as I marveled at the sight of the fiery setting sun glinting with its remaining sparkle on the calm blue waters of Bulalacao Bay.
A Side Trip to a Mangyan Settlement
After chasing beautiful
nature and experiencing adventure the previous day, we were then taken by our
friends from the Oriental Mindoro Tourism Office for some cultural and
community immersion trip to the Hanuno Mangyan settlement in Panaytayan, Mansalay,
Oriental Mindoro.
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| Kids from the Panaytayan Mangyan Settlement |
Even though it isn't part
of the municipality of Bulalacao, this town is an ideal side trip for those
wanting to learn more about Mangyan culture.
Aside from ancient burial
grounds and an underrated weaving industry, the town of Mansalay prides itself
for having a very intact local culture said to be "the well-preserved amongst the eight Mangyan tribes of Mindoro".
As part of their collective efforts in preserving their culture, community elders
teach the Hanuno script and language to elementary students once a week.
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| Lola Bugkos shows off the carved Hanuno script |
It was here where we met Lola
Bugkos Dagay, who demoed to us how to inscribe the Hanuno script (Surat mangyan) - one of the indigenous
suyat scripts of the Philippines, on a branch of a bamboo. Afterwards, Lola
Bugkos gave the piece of bamboo to me after I politely asked for it.
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| Some of the elders also perform their cultural dances in front of the visitors |
The Hanuno script reads:
"Si aypod bay upadan No kang tinaginduman. May ulanh madi kagnan. May
takip madi kaywan. Ga siyon di sa adngan. Go pagtangdayon diman” (”You, my best
friend, oh too far. My thoughts of you make me sad. River digs the dungeon gap.
Forest breaks our world apart, as if, you're here on my sight. Sitting, so
close, by my side")
Those words were overflowing with beauty, romance and reflective poetry, the most fitting token to remember these islands on this side of Mindoro.
