Thrice in the past spread
over a decade, I found myself in Baler always tugging a surf board. Despite failing
to achieve consistent long rides over the waves, I recognized the cherished vibe
reigning in this sea-side town. There is this inexplicable vibrant sub-culture
that continue to attract an expanding list of friends and acquaintances of mine, into re-rooting themselves amongst the surfing community here.
Many decades removed from
the aftermath of the laborious shooting of “Apocalypse
Now”, which gave birth to the country’s arguably first surfing location
when the film crew left their surf boards behind, Baler has become synonymous
to the sport of surfing. While the film’s menacing
character Colonel Kilgore referred to the Viet Congs as “Charlie don’t surf”, in real-world Baler, everybody surfs.
Easily, one can conclude that
one cannot enjoy Baler without surfing. That’s what I thought too. I can never
be more wrong. Because on my fourth time in Baler as part of this year’s Lakbay
Norte, I got to experience Baler sans a surfboard (almost) and had a wonderful
time doing it.
Baler Heritage Walk
Before Francis Ford
Coppola took his film’s Captain Willard into the soil of Baler to shoot scenes
for his iconic Vietnam War film, Baler has been the setting of a real-life
battle in what is known as the “Siege of
Baler”. The standoff lasted 337 days after Filipino revolutionaries first
surrounded and laid siege to Spanish troops holed up inside San Luis Obispo de
Tolosa Church. It only culminated when Spain relinquished the Philippines to
the United States in December 1898.
Today, this church situated
where the exact 17th century original church was built, serves as
the town’s heritage centerpiece. A few paces outside and you can reach the Dona
Aurora Aragon Quezon House. It was named after the former Philippine first lady
and wife of President Manuel L. Quezon who was assassinated by rebels in 1949.
Despite being a replica of the original house where the young Aurora Aragon
grew up, it stores valuable and historic items such as old photographs and the
couple’s book collection.
A few steps away is the
Museo de Baler. Highlighted by a steel statue of Manuel L. Quezon in a sitting
posture - said to be the only one in the Philippines, the museum houses more notable
items such as: World War II newspaper clippings, old photographs, art works,
archaeological finds and historical documents.
Wonderful
Nature Rush
Various river tributaries
ebbs from the lush Sierra Madre Mountains leading to the Pacific Ocean. This
orderly process of nature gave birth to stunning cascades and quaint rivers
perfect for nature lovers and solitude seeking travelers.
One such nature attraction is the
50-meter high Ditumabo Falls or otherwise called as “Mother Falls”. It requires a half hour hike over an easy trail knifing through the mountain parallel to the massive pipes of a hydraulic plant.
The waterfalls’ wide basin surrounded by massive boulders is perfect for a
refreshing dip – especially after a surfing session.
Following the highway
towards the east shall lead you to the stunning rock formations of Lukso-lukso
islets seen at the coast of Diguisit beach. The swell-chiseled tips of the rock
formations also serves as wonderful foreground to the sunrise rising at the
edge of the Pacific Ocean. Just behind one of the islet is a natural pool that
appears during low-tide. Other places you can visit along the way are Diguisit
Falls, Ermita Hill - where you can view the whole Sabang beach of Baler, and a
century old Balete Tree.
Isolated Beach Coves
A number of sea voyage
outfitters like Seasta Beach Resort and Lodging offers boat excursion further to
the southeastern part of Baler, where numerous remote bays can be found. Picturesque
panorama views of the Dimadimalangat Rock Formations and the Anyao Islets will
serve as beautiful precursor to the almost secluded Discalarin Cove. Regale at
the sight of the azure colored waters blending magnificently with the lush
green peaks tipped with an old lighthouse and a weather station.
On the northern east side
from Baler, the distant coves of Dipaculao and Casiguran provides a more
off-the-beaten path options for travelers desiring a more sheltered beach
destination.
Thrilling Inflatable Rides
If you are missing the
body movement generated by surfing and yearning of some tumble-down water
splash action, then you shouldn’t miss the ocean-based activities offered by Buoyancy Water Sports. This company
provides speedboat-towed inflatable rides starting from the chill Banana Boat,
to the mildly wild UFO Couch - which can sit up to 8 people, and the thrilling
Flying Fish.
Surf’s up, finally!
But of course, almost
nobody leaves Baler without picking up a board. After our Lakbay Norte group's euphoric high from
immersing at the many great outdoors gift of Baler settles down, the lure of
the waves and the feeling of getting stoked still remains too hard to pass up. There
is no better way to bookend one’s trip to Baler than riding the waves and to
let Apocalypse’ Colonel Kilgore know
that unlike the Charlies, “every Juan can surf”.
Another must-do in Baler is to go on a food tour, but that's for another article.
