2 Days of Sand(y) at Malapascua Island

I went to Malapascua with my friend Sandy last weekend. It was a spontaneous trip that came about only after a few nonsense conversations about what to do on a weekend. I was able to find cheap Cebu Pacific tickets last week and quickly penciled in the last weekend for this whirlwind excursion north of Cebu.

Philippines / Cebu / Island Travels

2 Days of Sand(y) at Malapascua Island

By Marky Ramone Go April 2011
Pristine white sandy shoreline and palm trees of Malapascua Island
Malapascua Island.

Enthused Wanderlust

Going to Malapascua wasn't really the sole goal of this trip, I admit. Rather, it was to meet Sandy and get to know her better. At first glance, I find her to be madly in love with the oddities of life, strikingly smart in a crazy way, and endowed with a dynamite, infectious smile. It was a trip with a subtle personal agenda for me. Oh, I'd write about Malapascua for an online magazine that was about to launch—a place like Malapascua is always a great source of inspiration for writers. However, the trip was more about spending quality time with Sandy than anything else.

The sweeping white sand beach of Malapascua Island under blue skies
The long white sandy shore of Malapascua Island.

So, just like in previous trips, I dug and buried the usual skeletons from my ordinary life. On a Friday, I arrived at work, completed my tasks for the day, and then proceeded directly to the airport. I arrived in Cebu for the third time in my life a few hours later. The last time was during the 2011 Sinulog Festival, where I also made great new friends. I had such a good time that I promised myself I'd return to Cebu soon. Spontaneous trips are always more fun than over-planned ones.

Scenic countryside view from the bus en route to Maya Port in northern Cebu
View from the bus en route to Maya Port.

Part of traveling is looking for something missing, and I always regard my fellow travelers as the most honest, gregarious, humble, and sincere people on the planet. We all quietly admit there's something significant missing in our lives—thus the craving for being on the road, immensely inspired to search through haystacks just to find whatever we are seeking.

Outrigger boat approaching the white sandy beach of Malapascua Island
Approaching the white sandy beach of Malapascua Island.

My opportunity was always to engage my senses in different things that a new place has to offer—to look at sun rays from a different angle, from sitting on a bench along a city baywalk to lying on my back on powdery sand by the beach 500 miles away from my workplace. It continues indefinitely, especially when injected with the company of someone with an addictive persona. How could I say no to that? I was completely sold on the idea of a whirlwind getaway, and Malapascua happened to be the paradise we landed in.

Whirlwind Journey to Malapascua

We boarded a bus from Cebu City's North Bus Terminal bound for Maya Port early Saturday morning. The ride was pleasant, passing through scenic seascapes and countryside, with the cool wind occasionally brushing my face while I struggled to stay wide awake so as not to miss anything. Sandy slept for a good portion of the ride because she had just returned from a two-day team-building trip in Bohol. Throughout the journey, I was left to converse with my thoughts while a dynamic companion leaned on my shoulder, making the long bus ride far more bearable.

Sunbathers lounging along the white sand beach of Malapascua
Sunbathers in Malapascua.

After nearly 3 hours and 15 minutes on the bus, we arrived at Maya Port around 11:00 AM and boarded a small outrigger boat that held more passengers than anticipated. There were several Caucasians on board, a group of Korean tourists, and local travelers from Cebu City. The boat ride from Maya Port to Malapascua lasted about 30 minutes—a quick crossing, though long enough for one tourist to accidentally drop an iPhone into the water while filming the trip. Probably the only downer of the entire journey!

A traveler relaxing by the quiet white beaches of Malapascua

We ended up staying at a budget resort called "Bebe's" located behind the upscale beachfront diving resorts. By the name alone, it’s obvious it caters to backpackers offering rooms under 500 pesos. We secured a simple fan room for 400 pesos, which fit our budget perfectly. It sits about a 5-to-10-minute walk from Malapascua's main beachfront.

Enjoying cold beers right along the beach in Malapascua
Beer on the beach? Game!

For us, island life consisted of bumming around and lying on the sand. Sandy received an incredible beachfront massage from a local masseuse named Angelina, while I went for a swim and watched the incoming boats slice through the water. Afterward, we retreated to our modest room for a quick nap—a rest that unexpectedly lasted until 6:00 AM the next morning. We were that exhausted!

Scenic horizon views across the crystal clear waters of Malapascua

The next morning, we went swimming under a brilliant sun that illuminated the powdery white sand and calm turquoise waters. An 11-year-old girl selling handcrafted seashell souvenirs saw us, paused her work, and jumped into the water to chat with us, mostly conversing in Cebuano.

Hanging Out with the Kids of Malapascua

She offered to guide us to the island lighthouse. After our swim, we set off on foot. Soon, a few of her friends joined us along the path, and before long, we became a merry crew of two adults and five local children walking the dirt trails of this sleepy island. They held our hands and eagerly showed us their school, the mangroves, the beach house of veteran actress Pilar Pilapil, and a local monkey resting in a nearby tree.

The island youth running playfully along the narrow dirt trails of Malapascua

Two of the girls were 11 years old, the eldest was 12, and the two youngest were just 7. These kids embodied the simplicity of island living—carefree, spirited, and happy, unburdened by the complexities of city life.

Traditional fishing vessels anchored along the shallow white beach lines

As a former teacher, Sandy encouraged them to prioritize their education so that if they ever decide to pursue opportunities in the city, they can do so with confidence. Sandy pondered where life would take them in ten years.

A traveler standing with local children near the Malapascua Lighthouse
With Sandy and the kids at the Lighthouse.

We could only hope for the best, but what defines a "better" life? Is it city living surrounded by traffic and gadgets, or a relaxed, minimalistic existence on a tropical island? These young girls will decide for themselves in time, but for now, they thrive in the innocence and warmth of Malapascua.

A traveler interacting with local schoolchildren under the native tree shadows
Sandy and the adorable kids.

It is humbling to witness the close-knit community spirit that thrives here. The locals enjoy a peaceful lifestyle in a paradise that city dwellers and corporate workers dream about throughout the year. Life is a balance of perspective; you just have to find your rhythm and make the most of where you are.

Sharing a simple island lunch layout with the young local children
Brunch with these young ones.

We treated the children to lunch at Ging-Ging Restaurant, courtesy of Sandy. The eldest girl acted like a protective older sister, carefully dividing the food among everyone and making sure no rice was wasted. They thanked us warmly before heading home, and shortly after, we boarded the boat back to the mainland.

Back to Sandy

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't smitten with Sandy. To be honest, I was. Malapascua provided a stunning backdrop to an unforgettable weekend. Though hundreds of miles separate our daily lives, Malapascua remains a bridge of shared memories that makes the distance feel far less significant.

Two travelers enjoying a quiet moment along the shore of Malapascua Island

For now, we remain great friends who shared a fantastic island getaway. Malapascua is a world-class destination, especially for scuba diving enthusiasts eager to spot thresher sharks. As a nomad at heart, my journey continues—always open to the possibilities and stories that lie around the next bend. C'est la vie!

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