I've been to Capones Island four times already, and my first published travel article was actually a narrative about my earlier trip here. On this particular trip, we hiked up to the lighthouse taking the longer route since our temperamental boatman didn't like the idea of docking near the rocky base of the lighthouse itself. It didn't matter though, as it was still a fairly easy hike of around 45 minutes starting from the back of Capones facing the Pundaquit shoreline.
Revisiting the Faro de Punta Capones Lighthouse
Our group came straight from an overnight camping trip at Nagsasa Cove, passing by the much more crowded Anawangin Cove where we had a brief stop. We had a window of a few hours here in Capones since the boat that ferried us went back to Nagsasa to fetch other campers to bring back to Pundaquit. We didn't mind waiting at all because we fully embraced the idea of beach bumming around and stealing some sleep while within earshot of the splashing waves and hissing winds.
Hiking to the Faro de Punta Capones
We took the leisurely hike towards the lighthouse after consuming what was left of our camping trip food. A few crackers here and there, a can of Tuna Paella from San Marino, and an abundance of great camaraderie as food for the soul. The lighthouse was exactly the same as I've seen it before, though the golden yellow grass that once surrounded it was gone. What replaced it were traces of recent bushfires, which got me wondering why people still resort to burning dead grass each time they want to regrow it.
As we spent time at the lighthouse, I feasted my eyes on the sensational 360-degree panoramic view of the blue waters off Zambales. Mimicking a watchman from centuries past, I pretended to study the vast sea in search of approaching pirate ships. All I saw, however, were small outrigger boats ferrying tourists from Nagsasa and Anawangin.
Exploring the Century-Old Ruins
This lighthouse, known historically as Faro de Punta Capones, first went operational in 1890 after seven years of construction. It stands approximately 15 meters tall and is situated a little over 50 meters above sea level. It has been operational for well over a hundred years, dutifully guiding ships passing through the waters leading to Subic Bay.
The lighthouse is perched atop a ruined station built with prominent red brick walls, a feature notable in most Spanish colonial structures across the Philippines. It sits squarely on top of a hill blessed with breathtaking scenery of the surrounding blue waters and the distant coastline of Pundaquit.
An entire afternoon can be easily spent inside the ruined small structure that once housed the lighthouse keepers. A cool, steady breeze emanates from all directions, making an afternoon nap sound like a brilliant idea.
There's a well out front that is still partially functional. When you look down, you'll see several 5-peso coins at the bottom—I guess visitors now see it as an impromptu wishing well. I didn't throw a five-peso coin because I had none in my pocket, but my genuine wish is for heritage lighthouses like this one in Capones to be conserved well into the next hundred years, continuing to guide passing ships safely away from the shallow depths and rocky islets that surround the Philippine archipelago.
Island Bumming & Beach Photo Shoots
We carefully hiked back down to the beach where we stayed until around 3:30 PM. This time the pace was slow and unhurried. Each of us enjoyed the quiet path leading back into the woods, carefully stepping over large rocks and occasionally staring out into the vast sea.
After 30 minutes, we were back at the shore. Some of our group decided to swim, while I just sat and savored the last remaining minutes of our layover. Arresting my attention was an impromptu photo-shoot happening right by the beach featuring two pretty women. They gamely posed for the cameras of two photographers they were traveling with.
I overheard one of the photographers mentioning that it was for their modeling portfolio. Well, if they ever need another set and decide to shoot on location again, they can surely hire me to play the part of a 'photographer.' I will gladly do it for FREE.
Anyway, it was great witnessing their brief photo-shoot at Capones as we finally boarded our boat that would ship us back to Pundaquit and back to the real world. Till next time, Capones...
Planning your own beach camping trip or lighthouse hike? Check out our complete Zambales Travel Guides & Itineraries to explore Nagsasa, Anawangin, and beyond.
