If these thick walls of Galle Fort could talk, they would narrate a rich history dating back to Portuguese rule in Sri Lanka in 1588, when the initial structure was first built. Fortified by the Dutch during the seventeenth century to repel invaders, it has since become one of the most well-preserved landmarks in the country. Acknowledged for its urban ensemble that illustrates the interaction of European architecture and South Asian traditions from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries, UNESCO granted it World Heritage Site status in 1988.
If These Thick Walls of Galle Fort Could Talk | Sri Lanka
Walking the Ramparts of Galle
After resting for about an hour at the lovely Villa Templeberg, I hurriedly made my way to Galle's city center and walked around until I ended up inside the massive walls of the Dutch Fort, often referred to as the Ramparts of Galle. The sun was in its full glory that day, and under my sweat-drenched shirt, I marched uphill until I saw a few shops housed inside polished, architecturally gifted structures that still retain the fort's centuries-old character.
Also preserved inside are well-known landmarks such as the Dutch Reformed Church, standing neatly in white along with its historic 1709-cast belfry; the Old Dutch Hospital; All Saints Anglican Church (first built in 1871); and the imposing Clock Tower, which was originally erected in 1882.
Colonial Landmarks and Ocean Horizons
Facing the long coastal area of Galle is a section of the fort hit hard by the Boxing Day Tsunami caused by the 2004 Indian Ocean Earthquake. Following the straight path led me to the Galle Lighthouse (Pointe de Galle Light). While the structure currently standing was built in 1939, an earlier version destroyed by a 1934 fire was first constructed in 1848.
From the lighthouse, I could see scores of locals and travelers frolicking on the small sandy beach below. For a second, I entertained the idea of cooling down in the water until I realized I needed to explore more of the immediate surroundings on foot.
These memories were from my first day in Galle, right at the start of my two-week journey across Sri Lanka. I returned here on my third day before taking the train to Kandy. After discovering points further south of Galle—where I witnessed stilt fishing at Unawatuna and learned about tea production at the Handunugoda Tea Estate—I came full circle back at Galle Fort.
A Living Tapestry of History
Surrounding the fort is a large cricket field where I spent an hour watching a match I initially knew nothing about. I simply followed each pitching and batting movement as if it were a baseball game. A tuk-tuk driver stopped and parked along the road behind me to watch the match as well. He turned to me and asked if I understood cricket. I told him, "I don't, but I'm learning slowly." He replied, "Once you understand the game, you'll get addicted to watching it." I believed him.
Much like Intramuros in Manila, Galle Fort keeps within its thick walls a rich history that saw Sri Lanka change hands from the Portuguese to the Dutch before finally being colonized by the British until its birth as an independent island nation in 1948.
In the afternoon of my second visit to the fort, the clouds turned darker as a soft rain fell, accompanied by a strengthening breeze. I ducked behind a large wall for temporary shelter and watched in fascination as local families ran for cover, while admiring a few couples who remained seated side by side. The rain stopped after a few minutes, and everyone returned to their spots on the big lawn spread across the fort. I found my way out through one of its massive gates and, with a hungry stomach, turned around for one last look. There they stood—the massive walls shielding the fort, still refusing to speak, despite the immense weight of history they have witnessed.
