For many Filipino
travelers and weekend warriors, the usual stops in Quezon province tend to circle
around the well-worn routes of Lucena, Tayabas, Lucban, and Gumaca, places
already familiar to motorists en route to Batangas or Bicol.
Top view of Balagbag Falls in Real, Quezon |
Beach-seekers, too,
often gravitate toward coastal spots like San Andres, Mauban, and Pagbilao. But
beyond these popular destinations, in the northernmost part of Quezon province bordering
Rizal, Bulacan, and Quirino, is a lesser-known triad of towns that have quietly
drawn the attention of surfers, hikers, and nature lovers.
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Members of Sining Salambaw Dance Troupe-SSDT in Real |
Known collectively
as the REINA circuit, the municipalities of Real, Infanta, and General Nakar
are now considered as emerging tourist destinations, thanks to recent efforts
by the local tourism offices of the three towns and the Tourism Promotions
Board (TPB) of the Philippines. Their campaign highlights the region’s
unspoiled landscapes, distinctive cultural heritage, and locally crafted products.
The Great Outdoors of General Nakar
In the northeastern
edge of Quezon province, where the Sierra Madre mountains descend into the
Pacific Ocean, the municipality of General Nakar has long been known among
off-road enthusiasts for its expansive, rugged terrain. Now, it’s gaining
attention for another reasons: its natural beauty and Indigenous-led ecotourism
efforts.
The towering Sapot Falls |
A trek to Sapot
Falls, a 150-foot cascade hidden within a moss-covered forest, begins with a
one-hour hike from Sitio Masla. The trail crosses the Rigrig River and passes
through biodiverse lush woods that are ideal for birdwatching. The hike, though
moderately challenging, brings in a sensory overload, where you will hear the
sound of flowing water, while guided by the ambient light filtering through
thick canopies, and glimpses of wildlife endemic to the Sierra Madre.
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Washing machine mode on |
The waterfalls mark
just the beginning. Further downstream, the Rigrig River widens into a stretch
ideal for river tubing, an activity managed by the Masla Community Nature
Adventure organization, a group of local guides from the Remontado and Dumagat
Indigenous communities. Their work offers not only guided outdoor experiences
but also an opportunity for visitors to engage meaningfully with the original settlers
of the region.
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Habal Habal ride going to Sitio Masla |
Reaching Sitio
Masla remains a challenge, requiring either a two-wheeled habal-habal or a 4x4
vehicle, as the route is an unpaved dirt road stretching all the way from the
town center. This rugged path, however, is currently being developed as part of
the Pacific Coastal Trail Highway. Once completed, the road is expected to
connect General Nakar with Dingalan in neighboring Aurora Province, thus opening
access to a region that is still largely untouched by mass tourism.
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Three of our river tubing guides |
These two
destinations, Sapot Falls and the Rigrig River, are just the beginning of what
General Nakar has to offer.
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Approaching the first rapid |
“If you had more
time, we could have explored other sites like Tulaog Cave, which is considered
sacred by the Dumagat people,” Jonathan Saynes, Tourism Officer of General
Nakar, said. “It’s accessible from the sea and leads into an inner chamber
hidden within a thick karst wall,” he added.
Beyond the cave,
Saynes highlighted other lesser-known natural attractions around the
municipality. These include Masanga Point, a dramatic coastal rock formation,
as well as twin waterfalls, Pagapeden and Depalyon. Numerous beachfront areas
also line the town’s extensive Pacific coastline, offering quieter alternatives
to the country’s more crowded shores.
Beyond the Waves of Real, Quezon
Best
known as a surf town with serious swells and a jump-off to off-the-grid islands
like Jomalig and Polillo, Real is starting to attract a different kind of
traveler, those drawn less by the waves of the Pacific and more of the other
offerings of the great outdoors.
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Sitting near the second-level of the waterfalls |
One
of the easiest nature escapes is Balagbag Falls, a two-tiered, 50-foot cascade
just a short walk from the main road. With a natural pool perfect for cooling
off, it’s a favorite stop for road-trippers and day hikers alike.
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Another day, another river tubing adventure in Quezon |
But
Real isn’t just about waterfalls. Like its neighbor General Nakar, this coastal
town also has a river running through it; Tanauan River, where the Tanauan
Balsahero Association has mapped out a five-kilometer route for river tubing.
Here, you’ll hop aboard a makeshift raft made from inner tubes tied together,
gliding past numerous rapids. It's another example of how community-led tourism
is shaping visitor experience in this part of Quezon.
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A single stalk from a tiger grass |
For
visitors heading to Real, Quezon, the perfect souvenir isn’t a postcard or
keychain, it’s a handcrafted walis tambo, or soft broom, made from locally
harvested tiger grass. And in the upland barangay of Maragondon, broom-making
is more than just a livelihood, it’s a growing symbol of community pride.
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One of the walis tambo creators in Real, Quezon |
Responsible
for this, is the Maragondon Dragon Grass Association (MDGA), a 53-member group
formed in 2015 through the Department of Social Welfare and Development’s
Sustainable Livelihood Program (SLP). Every February, members begin harvesting
tiger grass, locally known as raza, just as its flower blooms into long, fine strands.
These are picked, dried, and stitched by hand. It takes at least 30 flower
stalks to make a single large broom.
In
the past year alone, the group produced over 4,000 walis tambo, drawing both
tourists and residents to Maragondon to buy this local product. To support this
One-Town, One-Product (OTOP) initiative, the Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) Philippines
recently contributed additional funding to help the group expand operations
while they prepare for the next harvest season.
Discovering
Infanta’s Nature Habitat and Heritage Fishing
I’ve
passed through Infanta more times than I can count, usually on just quick
stopover on the way to go hiking in the Sierra Madre, like the popular Mt.
Famy, where I first had my hiking experience back in high school. Returning now
after many years, I found a town offering new discoveries.
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Just a few of the thousands flying foxes in Bipco Eco park |
This
time, I wasn’t going out for a hike. Instead, we walked the shaded boardwalks
of a mangrove forest, where hundreds of fruit bats and migratory birds flew
overhead across the sky. Covering a 17-hectare area, the Bipco Mangrove Forest
Ecological Park in Binonoan has transformed from a once-depleted landscape into
a thriving sanctuary for both wildlife and education. Today, the park is home
to an array of species, including flying foxes, fruit bats, herons, hawks, and
migratory birds, all thriving within the dense mangrove ecosystem.
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Pointing either to a flying fox or a bird. |
Over
a decade ago, a dedicated effort to restore the forest began, and the results
are now evident: a thriving nature habitat for birds and other animals that
serves as a living testament to successful environmental rehabilitation. The
park has since become a prime location for researchers, particularly from the
University of the Philippines Los Baños, as well as forestry and agricultural
students eager to study the park’s biodiversity.
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"Also in Infanta, visitors can try their hands on fan-weaving at Bukid ni Dok" |
Managed
by the Bipco Foundation, a community-led organization, the park is now looking
to expand their goal not only to attract more visitors but also to share
valuable knowledge on ecology, forestry, and the importance of nature
preservation.
Visitors
can embark on guided tours of the mangrove river, following carefully
constructed boardwalks designed to minimize environmental impact. These tours
provide an immersive educational experience, offering a rare glimpse into an
ecosystem that hosts a wealth of marine species, various bird populations, and
a variety of mangrove tree species. The foundation also offers workshops on
environmental conservation and sustainable tourism practices, furthering its
mission to protect and preserve this vital ecosystem.
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An "alak sa sasa" maker at work |
Another
mangrove forest in Infanta, the Alitas Mangrove Eco-park offers a home-stay
experience where one can also witness the process of making "alak sa
sasa", a traditional local liquor made from the sap of palm trees. It
is another community-driven tourism destination as it is managed by the members
of the Alitas Farmers Association (AFA).
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Tata Dado showing us their group's tain trap |
Under
the low morning light on the banks of the Agos River, just under the bridge
that connects the neighboring towns of Infanta and General Nakar, a group of
fishermen gathers every morning.
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Typical catch for the day is good for meal for a family of 4 |
Among
them is Tata Dado, who has spent decades fishing in the river. He and his
companions still practice pagtatain, an age-old fishing method passed
down through generations.
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Appreciating nature at the Alitas Mangrove Park |
Using
traps crafted from hand-split bamboo strips, shaped into narrow cylinders
called tain, the fishermen bury them beneath stones and align their
openings against the current “so it won’t be dislodged by the current”, Tata
Dado told us in Tagalog.
The
traps sit undisturbed overnight, and by early morning, they are often filled
with the river’s offerings such as shrimps, tiny crabs, small fishes, and
occasionally, a slippery eel.
But this traditional fishing method, like the river itself, may be at risk. At the center of the concern is the planned construction of the controversial Kaliwa Dam, a government-backed infrastructure project intended to divert water from the Agos River to supply Metro Manila. For local communities whose lives are forever connected with the river, the dam represents more than just a shift in the landscape, it signals a disruption in their way of life.
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Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) of the Philippines donated some river tubing kits to the local tourism office |
“We’re
afraid the river will dry up once the dam is finished,” a woman standing nearby
says in Tagalog. “That water is meant to be sent to the city. And when typhoons
come, they’ll release water again flooding everything downstream.”
For
now, the Agos continues its flow. But to those who have long depended on it,
the current carries a mounting uncertainty, one that no bamboo trap can hold
back.
In
the northern areas of Quezon in Real, Infanta, and General Nakar, travelers are
being introduced not only to Indigenous and age-old traditions but also to the
natural wonders of rivers, waterfalls, and the dense forests of the Sierra
Madre. These experiences foster a deeper consciousness for nature conservation,
driven by effective community-based tourism that empowers locals to manage
their own resources without interference from profit-driven outsiders. In
essence, the REINA circuit prioritizes sustainable tourism over mass commercial
development.