It's already our third day in El Nido and it seems I am getting a good grasp of the place. I'm getting used to the vibe of the town. Who wouldn't be? You walk a little bit further and you'll end up in rows of bars and restaurants fronting the sea. The place itself feels like a stone encapsulated by the towering edges of limestone peaks. It is crawling with tourists who always exhibit a friendly demeanor, making striking up a conversation feel second nature. The locals elevate hospitality to another level by greeting everyone with a warm smile, while tour proprietors politely offer island hopping packages to anyone walking around town.
El Nido: Tour B - Hop a Dope
While what happened the previous night shook and frightened us a bit, like the other visitors and residents, we didn't dwell on theories about who might be responsible. The overall fear quickly dissipated as the presence of the military and police restored order and peace. Sooner than expected, El Nido returned to the paradise it was before the momentary disruption.
This time, fellow travel writer and photographer Josiah joined us for another round of island hopping. We set out on the "Tour B" package (800 PHP each) to visit places not covered by the Tour A circuit we took the previous day. Our newfound friends from that tour had moved on to other destinations, so we boarded with a fresh group: a young Pinoy couple, two South Korean women, a Japanese couple, and an elderly Caucasian couple.
Snake Island & Sandbar Explorations
Among our boatmates, we connected most with the two South Korean women, Jinhee and Sandara. Jinhee is in her early twenties, while Sandara (not her real name, as silly me is terrible with names) is in her 40s with a spirit as young as ours. While eating lunch, we mentioned she looked 28. She blushed and politely bowed, saying, "Oh, Thank You." She and Jinhee had traveled to El Nido independently as solo backpackers and met along the way. Sandara has two children almost our age, while Jinhee is a fresh university graduate.
The highlight of Tour B was Snake Island—a small islet featuring a scenic trail leading to an elevated view deck atop a small hill. A hundred meters away, an adjacent island laden with lush mangroves can be reached by walking across a curved S-shaped sandbar connecting both shores. We waded through knee-deep water toward the mangroves and sat idly under their cool shade.
A local family lives on the neighboring island with several dogs that swim across whenever they hear boats approaching. Our boatman explained that the dogs know visitors gather there for lunch. We even spotted a dog with an injured paw paddling bravely across the current. Worried he might drown, we watched him safely reach the shore, where he sat patiently begging for leftover grilled treats.
Returning to the main beach with Pam, Josiah, and Sandara, we found our group ready for lunch. I offered a warm smile to the elderly Caucasian couple, and they smiled back—signaling it was chow time. We devoured grilled fish and squid like a hurricane, nearly ending up in a friendly battle royale for the last sweet mangoes. It was a diverse group compared to the younger crowd from yesterday. One beauty of island hopping in El Nido is that every day introduces new companions, yet sharing a boat ride and discovering hidden gems makes it feel as though you've known each other for years.
Cathedral Cave, Cudugnon & Islands
Next on the Tour B itinerary was Cathedral Cave, boasting a soaring cavern opening embedded in a limestone islet resembling a grand cathedral interior. Inside, natural rock formations form giant cathedral-like altars. At our next stop, we squirmed sideways through the narrow entrance of Cudugnon Cave—a hidden chamber illuminated by natural light beaming through a ceiling opening. Afterwards, we spent an hour snorkeling among vibrant fish at both Pangulasian and Pinagbuyutan Islands.
On one of the islands, construction was underway for the filming of a Survivor France reality TV show. While it's a great opportunity to introduce El Nido to European audiences, I genuinely hope production teams minimize temporary infrastructure to preserve this pristine landscape intact.
Trattoria Altrove & Beach Drinking Games
By sunset, we returned to town famished from non-stop snorkeling and decided to splurge on an early dinner at Trattoria Altrove, famous for its authentic brick-oven pizzas. Entering downstairs, you see pizzaiolos crafting dough by the roaring wood-fired oven before heading up wooden stairs to a cozy second-floor dining area accented by warm timber floors, ambient lighting, and ceiling fans.
The owner, a friendly European gentleman with clear glasses who resembles a suave character from a Jason Bourne thriller, personally thanks guests as they leave. The rustic setting includes standard tables alongside low floor-seating areas designed for enjoying pizza Indian-style on soft cushions.
After dinner, we met up across town with Inah, a bubbly Couchsurfer from Germany who had been exploring the Philippines for months after bartending in Australia. She introduced us to three hilarious Dutch travelers—Jong, Hugo, and Erik—who acted like brothers, constantly joking around over bottles of Tanduay Rum and Emperador Brandy.
Joined by Mark, another Couchsurfer from Manila, we gathered on the beach under the stars for a round of "Never Have I Ever." The game sparked endless laughter as shots of rum were downed for every wild travel confession.
I turned in around 3:00 am as new travelers joined the circle on the sand. It was an awesome day made even better by a night of wholesome drinking, wild stories, endless cheers, and pure island happiness.
More El Nido Travel Chronicles:
- El Nido: Paradise Momentarily Disturbed
- El Nido: 0–24 Hours
- El Nido: 25th–48th Hour
- A Piece of C in El Nido, Palawan
Planning a bigger trip across the island? Check out our complete Palawan Travel Guide for itineraries, transport tips, and island-hopping insights.
