It was around lunchtime, just as the sun was at its peak, when I got off from the tuk-tuk at the roadside fronting a small hill. I followed my hastily written directions, jotted down on a torn piece of paper, which led me to a spiral trail heading to the top of a coconut plantation tucked inside a forest—where I assumed Villa Templeberg was perched. The three-hour train ride from Colombo had left me in high spirits, as I enjoyed every bit of scenery along the way. But along with it came a weary body screaming for a soft bed and a short nap before I began my exploration of the city of Galle. I hiked a couple hundred meters, and while on the verge of huffing and puffing, I saw a man by the door near a sign that said Villa Templeberg. He waved at me and gestured something until he disappeared inside.
Missing the Rustic Charm of my Colonial Home in Galle, Sri Lanka – Villa Templeberg
A few moments later, a smiling Caucasian woman came rushing out, and before I knew it, we were shaking hands and she was leading me inside as she asked about my trip from Colombo. In an instant, I felt right at home. She introduced herself as Karin, who is originally from Sweden but is now spending her retirement years in Galle after living for more than twenty years in New Zealand. Sandrew, the local house manager who first saw me walking in, handed me a hot towel and shook my hand as well.
Addressed by the locals as 'Madame Templeberg,' Karin possesses a demeanor similar to that of English actress Helen Mirren, instantly conveying a royal presence with a way of making you feel instantly at ease and comfortable talking to her. In our first few minutes of conversation—with me mostly listening—she gave me a tour of the villa, showing me the front yard and the garden, naming the types of trees that surround the property, and ushering me to the other three bedrooms and the private two-bedroom bungalow, all while narrating interesting bits of history about specific pieces of antiquated wood-based furniture.
Colonial Aesthetics
After giving me a rundown of the place and some tips on what to see and where to eat in downtown Galle, she ushered me to my room—a spacious and charmingly furnished bedroom located on the left side of the main entrance. Staying true to the old colonial architecture of the villa, Karin told me that they had only made minimal renovations, and the property looks almost exactly as it did during the days of its previous owner. As Karin told me, it is "a fusion of a Dutch Colonial Estate, Sri Lankan guest house, and Bed and Breakfast, yet with its own unique style and laid-back way of doing things."
I was particularly impressed with how each piece of furniture blends with the heritage architecture. Every corner provides a burst of visual feasting, making you want to stay there throughout your visit. I did entertain the idea of spending my whole time in Galle just lounging at this lovely villa, but the pull of the historical and fascinating places in the city proved hard to miss.
The People Behind the Charm
It was a stroke of luck that I ended up staying at Templeberg Villa. A few weeks prior to my Sri Lanka trip, I had been trying to search for cheap accommodation in Galle, and I had narrowed down a short list of boutique hotels in Sri Lanka. With good karma working its magic, I crossed internet paths on Twitter with Brent—one of the owners of Templeberg. I pitched an idea for a travel partnership. The rest is history, as Brent acknowledged that as a travel blogger I could help spread the good news about Villa Templeberg, and he told me I would be welcome to check the place out for two nights. So even though this was a sponsored stay, I firmly believe that my opinion about the place wouldn't differ even if I were a paying guest. Just like all those positive TripAdvisor reviews about Templeberg.
Not long after, I got to meet the other staff working at the villa: the always-smiling Achilla, who is also trained in giving Ayurveda massages; the lovely chief housekeeper Nayana; Trixie, who is in charge of the kitchen and prepared some of my most memorable meals; Sudu, the in-house gardener-slash-tuk-tuk driver; and Rajan, the night watchman who was always the first person I would see in the morning, greeting me the moment I stepped out onto the front lawn.
Conversations Under the Coconut Trees
After an initial stroll around the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Galle Fort, I came back just before sunset. As I entered my room, Sandrew told me that Karin was inviting me to dinner with her other guests—a couple from Australia who had been traveling the world for many years and had spent considerable time in Sri Lanka shooting videos and surfing. As our dinner table was filled with sumptuous vegetable and curry-based dishes prepared by Trixie, the conversations over dinner were equally enthralling and full of new information. Well, what do you expect to learn from three individuals with a collective hundred years of travel experience? It was an immensely inspirational dinner. Plus, I also got to pitch the idea of them visiting the Philippines!
I retired to my bed around ten in the evening, did a bit of work at the study table in my room, and talked via Skype to my girlfriend back home, showing her images of the villa, which wowed her. Since I'd had a long layover in Kuala Lumpur a couple of days before, I lacked a bit of sleep, and the good vibe of my room made me sleep like a baby. The next morning before breakfast, I got to play with the resident dogs, Reeva and Mumum, both of whom seemed spoiled to the core. Plus, I spotted a few bird species that were new to me, alongside a number of squirrels frolicking in the nearby trees.
Homebase for Exploring the Southern Coast
That morning I would go back to Galle Fort with Karin, who wanted to check the market, and right after lunch, I joined Sandrew on a guided tour of the southern coast of Galle. He took me to the Sea Turtle Conservation Center, showed me the interesting practice of stilt fishing, and guided me through the intricate process of planting, cultivating, and processing tea at the Handunugoda Estate Tea Plantation.
The only bit of a downer was that I wasn't able to meet Brent and Chris, as they were still in Australia. But the presence of Karin as a well-meaning and gracious host made me feel duly welcomed. The rest of the Templeberg team—Sandrew, Achilla, Trixie, Nayana, Sudu, Rajan, and Thyronne—further reinforced my belief that Sri Lankans are among the friendliest people on Earth. My stay at Templeberg Villa greatly conditioned my mind to believe that I would have a wonderful journey in Sri Lanka. Two weeks later, I found out I was right on the money with that assumption.
On my last night, I stepped out of my room and opened the guest dedication book that Karin had shown me during dinner. In it, I wrote that I wished to come back soon—hopefully with the planned larger swimming pool in place. But with or without the pool, it was the overall charming vibe of Templeberg and the people behind it that I wanted to return to. Crossing my fingers that I will be able to fulfill that promise in the immediate future with my girlfriend alongside me, or why not—my whole family and some friends. Maybe we can even rent out the entire villa itself.
For booking and other inquiries, please visit their Website or "Follow" their Twitter.
