Consisting of a five-cave monastery perched atop a hill one hundred sixty meters high, the impressive ancient structures and paintings found inside the caves give travelers a compelling reason to make the slow uphill hike and see them firsthand. Under the torrid shine of the sun, I worked my way up the wide stair trail as dozens of monkeys goofed at each other around me. I met other travelers with smiles brimming on their faces—a clear sign of delight at what they had witnessed. Once atop, a smiling local guard signaled me to take off my shoes as I prepared to enter the first cave.
Adoring the Ancient Art and History of Dambulla
Like rock sculptures, I saw the main hallway leading to the first cave built underneath a large body of granite rock. What impressed me even more was discovering the cave's interior directly hewn into the massive boulder. Inside, a looming Buddha statue greets visitors; behind it, equally impressive Buddha statues in different poses stand in a semicircular row.
Instantly, my attention was drawn to the stunning murals inscribed on the walls and ceilings. The artworks, as I eavesdropped on a nearby tour guide speaking, depict the life and times of Buddha, the temptation by Mara the demon, and Buddha's first-ever sermon. Most of these magnificent works of art date back to the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries, with some going all the way back to two thousand years ago.
A Masterpiece of Sacred Rock Art
Earning UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1991, this first-century BCE temple complex paints a remarkably preserved historical landmark that had me directing my gaze toward every corner for the sheer visual delight it conveys. Apart from the rich history emanating from every inch of the five major shrine rooms, the cool wind seeping in from the surrounding lush plains provided an ancient atmosphere as I found myself standing alone inside one of the caverns.
Craning my neck to stare at the ceiling, I took time studying as many paintings as I could while photographing them. While some are oblivious to time and can be seen slowly fading, much of the murals remain clearly visible, teeming with rich, earthy red pigments.
The five main caves are divided into the Devarajah Lena (Cave of the Lord of Gods), where one can see the forty-five-foot statue of the Lord Buddha; the Maharajah Lena (Cave of Great Kings); Devana Aluth Viharaya (Cave of the Second New Temple); Paccima Viharaya (Cave of the Western Temple); and the Maha Alut Viharaya (Cave of the Great New Monastery).
Located a couple of kilometers from my accommodation, the Dambulla City Hostel, I decided to spend the entire afternoon here and wait for the sunset before hiking back down. Like mischievous pranksters, the monkeys tried to bother me from all corners while I sat on one of the stone steps. Just like little kids wanting attention, I noticed how they would stand still each time I pointed my camera at them.
The whole afternoon became like a solemn retreat for me, even with the presence of a few other tourists. From afar, I could see the ancient rock fortress of Sigiriya and wondered about life hundreds of years ago. I also imagined back thousands of years—to the time before the arrival of Buddhism in Sri Lanka—when the hilltop where the Golden Temple of Dambulla sits was where ancient Sri Lankans settled and buried their dead two thousand seven hundred years ago.
Enriched by a double dose of art and history, peppered with new cultural insights and the company of newfound monkey friends, I headed down in search of a thirst quencher. On the way down, I met a local who pointed to a stage being set up a couple of hundred meters away: "You see that? Dancing there tonight, come and enjoy." At that moment, I genuinely meant it when I told him, "Sure, I will come tonight." But that evening, I fell asleep right after dinner. A long, fulfilling day awaited me the next morning at the ancient city of Polonnaruwa.
