Camarines Norte is more than Calaguas and Bagasbas. Here are places off the beaten track to explore:
If the map of the Philippines were a banquet table filled with a variety of cuisines, the Bicol region would be where the cheese section is. Always overlooked, but as every foodie agrees, one should never miss this part of the table. The same philosophy applies to this region situated at the tail end of the island of Luzon. An often unnoticed province belonging to this region, Camarines Norte lies quietly, waiting to be discovered—either by transient itinerants on their way to Mayon Volcano in Legazpi or the whale shark watchers en route to Donsol, Sorsogon. To the few who stop by, Camarines Norte’s tourism trail only consists of the surfing spot in Bagasbas and the Calaguas and Mercedes group of islands, disregarding the fact that hidden among its rustic towns are the many jump-offs to more pristine islands and adventure sites.
A Date with Daet: Camarines Norte Off the Beaten Track
Just as the Beatles don’t only comprise John and Paul, Camarines Norte dishes a bountiful list of options to travelers. A long weekend incursion to this window to the Pacific Ocean made it possible for me to discover alternative locations catering perfectly to the yearnings of wanderers in search of substitute destinations, in lieu of both the Calaguas and Mercedes group of islands.
The Sandbar of Padoni Island
As soon as we stepped out of the multi-cab at the municipality of Jose Panganiban, a jovial man named Kagawad Art Andaya animatedly welcomed our traveling party. After a hurried introduction, he pointed out toward the sea, particularly to a wide stretch of sandbar leading to a forested small island—our first destination.
“That is Padoni Island. At any given time of the day, the sandbar can spread toward its twin island on the far left,” he tells us enthusiastically. Hearing the engine of the motorboat rev up, I felt a jolt of anticipation shooting up through me, buoyed by the impending short sea voyage that would gift me with a new island to explore.
A few minutes later and we’re off, huddled inside a small motorboat that cuts gently across steady waters. A contrasting scene plays out as I look back at the mainland, seeing traces of mining on the distant hills, while ahead of me lies an unperturbed island safe from the grasp of profiteering mining companies. As if able to read my mind, Art shakes his head and informs me of their efforts in focusing on eco-tourism to erase the stigma of being associated with illegal mining.
“Tourism has paved the way for many locals to become aware about the environment; later you will see a model community thriving under its own eco-tourism and livelihood programs,” he says. “Many have given up mining in favor of more sustainable livelihoods.”
As the small town of Jose Panganiban gradually disappears from my sight, Padoni Island slowly introduces itself. Like human arms outstretched in a welcome posture, the sandbar expands long and wide as our small boat docks in the shallow water and sands of the island. Due to the low tide, our boat had to circle around and fetch us from the other side of the island, giving us ample time to explore the spread-out sandbar.
Calalanay Island
As the tranquil vibe prevailing on Padoni Island afforded me a quiet moment listening to my thoughts, I almost missed the call of our boatman to board. Time seemed to stand still, and before I knew it, we were off to another island—a smaller version of Calaguas and equally perfect for beach camping.
My travels all over the Philippines have taken me to numerous islands overflowing with entrancing visual features, but I still have enough wonder and awe whenever I visit a place such as Calalanay. Sightings like this never get old for my wandering soul.
Below me, splashes from clear blue waters sprinkle my face as the boat tapers its engine, approaching the brightly shining white sands of Calalanay. Setting romantic descriptions aside, Calalanay provides a secluded departure from crowded beaches. Dotted by magnificent trees and verdant grass fringed by white sands, the island offers sufficient shade and flat surfaces for pitching a tent. The only thing keeping it from a true Cast Away setting is the surprisingly strong mobile phone signal—which, I’m sure, will delight millennial travelers. Off-the-grid setting: check. Instagram-friendly: check.
Mangrove Eco-Park at Isla ni Cion
Our third island stop is where an actual community resides—the site of a thriving mangrove eco-park managed by the environmentally conscious residents of Isla ni Cion. The locals of Barangay Dayhagan may be separated by a short boat ride from the mainland, but they practice eco-friendly methods most of us in big cities ignore. Art proudly tells us the mangrove forest blossomed under community initiative, and looking at the healthy twigs and branches adorning Isla ni Cion, it is easily comparable to Kalibo's renowned Bakhawan Eco-Park.
Half a dozen small nipa houses dot the trail leading to the mangroves from where we docked. Along the way, we encountered cheery kids peeking out windows while their parents were busy knitting cloth or fixing boats under the scorching sun.
Typifying textbook island living brimming with simplicity set against stunning natural gifts, the residents may lead a challenging life, but it is balanced by beautiful surroundings which they honor through proactive environmental stewardship.
A community leader led us along a bamboo walkway passing through the mangroves, allowing us to delve deeper into the forest before bridging to another neighborhood on the opposite side of the island. Making the experience even better was a buffet lunch spread out on a large table under the canopy of mangrove trees. Fresh seafood consisting of grilled fish, oversized crabs, shrimp, squid, and mangrove shells cooked in local style filled us to the brim.
Conversations with local leaders and our travel group highlighted our lunch. Just as we were leaving, I saw locals setting up a table under the shade to open a bottle of rum. As much as I wanted to jump back into the crystal-clear waters of Padoni and Calalanay, I resisted the urge to join them for a few shots of rum—which happens to be my alcoholic drink of choice. Kayaking out of the mangroves into our waiting boat gave me yet another fantastic vantage point to appreciate the thick greenery floating out into the open sea.
Entering the Small Holes of Cadig Cave
Cadig Cave is located deep in the forests of Brgy. Bayabas in Labo, Camarines Norte. We reached the cave jump-off after an hour and a half of brisk hiking through rice paddies, small hills, and river streams.
I’m always game for spelunking, but each time I explore a cave, I catch myself asking, “What am I doing here?” for the obvious reason that it is exhausting work. Surprisingly though, I enjoyed every bit of Cadig Cave, feeling like I was inside a video game passing challenges in the form of tiny crevasses and squeezing my body through shallow passageways.
Other than centuries-old stalactite and stalagmite formations, the highlight was what looked like a screwdriver hole—drilled just wide enough to fit a single human body. Hearing laughter from guides amused by someone attempting what they had done numerous times before, I inserted myself into the minuscule opening. Pushing my right foot first, followed by my right arm, I stuck for half a minute strategizing before gravity sucked me through.
Feeling like a contestant on Takeshi’s Castle, the challenge didn’t end there. We had to crawl in a duck-walk position under solid stone ceilings for a dozen meters before creeping on all fours over two inches of running water in a tighter passageway. After an hour of negotiating Cadig Cave’s steep hurdles, I rejoiced at the sight of sunlight: the outside world!
Beyond the cave mouth, a clear stream flowed into natural pools. I dipped my aching body into one, and it felt like a therapeutic massage.
It took a full-packed long weekend to re-introduce me to Camarines Norte. In the same manner I plan to return to Calaguas to soak up its blinding white sand, or to learn surfing at Bagasbas, the spots we visited on this trip added plenty of new reasons why I should schedule another date with Daet.
