Feeling the chilling wind of a 4:00 AM morning in Bagan, I walked gingerly toward the front desk manned by a drowsy staff member. I momentarily feared intruding on his quiet time when he suddenly rose from his chair and displayed a wide smile upon noticing my presence. "Welcome to Bagan Lodge, do you have a reservation?" he asked me, as if it was a normal occurrence for a guest to walk in during such ungodly hours. "Ah, yes," I said, then told him my name. "Oh, you are the travel blogger from the Philippines," he trailed his speech with an animated demeanor. I sighed a big relief, learning with finality that they were indeed sponsoring my three-night stay in Bagan.
A Lonesome But Pleasant Retreat at Bagan Lodge Resort
An Early Check-In
While he was processing my check-in information, two Chinese-looking female guests loitered around the lobby, giggling and seemingly excited. The lone staff member manning the front desk asked them, "Why wake up early?" to which the two ladies explained their enthusiasm about the sunrise hot-air balloon ride.
"You should also try the hot-air balloon," one of the girls told me. "I might," I replied to them. As I was handed my key and another sleepy concierge led me to my room—which I later found out was a spacious fifty-square-meter villa that could pass as a honeymoon suite at most resorts—I instantly noticed how the sprawling property of Bagan Lodge stretched afar, encircling well-landscaped gardens and walkways.
Spacious Villas of Bagan Lodge Resort
My abode for the next three nights appeared grand on the outside, courtesy of its shiny wooden finishing and a veranda at the front door. Inside, two single beds took the center spot, while generous space reserved for an adjacent living room and working area completed the interior. The bathroom was placed in the back in a horizontal spread spanning from end to end of my villa. The toilet throne was on the left side, the shower was on the right, and the bathtub lay in the middle part.
Itching to start my day in Bagan early, I fought off the desire to sleep and instead waited for the sunrise while dipped in the bathtub filled with hot water. Enjoying the soothing sensation of relaxing every muscle, I welcomed the convenient feeling of experiencing such classy accommodation, far removed from the normal places I had stayed at during my previous solo backpacking trips.
Throughout the four days I spent at Bagan Lodge, I existed in solitary fashion—only talking to the staff when they asked me if I needed anything, when I rented a motorbike, or during the occasional exchange of pleasantries at breakfast and each time I walked out of my villa.
Travel Writer Perks
The rest of the guests were either retirees or business travelers enjoying company perks, as every breakfast I eavesdropped on featured talks of business and investments. There were no fellow 'backpackers' around. Understandably so, since the minimum rate of 250 USD a night would set them back a month’s worth of travel budget.
Every breakfast, I savored my alone time seated at my favorite table by the swimming pool—as the only younger-looking Asian guest amid a throng of retired and moneyed Western guests. I was starting to wonder if anyone would notice me sticking out like a sore thumb when a forty-something woman from the next table bellowed questions at me, such as, "Are you enjoying Bagan?", "Where are you from?", and "What do you do?"
I gleefully answered all her queries by telling her that it was my second time in Bagan, that it was among my favorite places, and that I was a 'Travel Writer' from the Philippines. She seemed pleased with my answers as she ended our brief chat with a smile—though I wondered if it was a cue for my turn to start asking her some questions.
Being a travel writer, I earned barely next to peanuts, but the perks I got by doing what I loved included staying in a place like Bagan Lodge Resort. A sprawling, luxurious, and expensive place my wallet would never afford. Grateful for good karma, there I was experiencing a pleasant retreat away from the hustle of hostels and cheap inns.
Traditional Burmese Design
First opened in 2013 to coincide with the initial influx of travelers flocking to Myanmar, the architecturally gifted eighty-five rooms dotting the entire complex were clustered almost a stone's throw away from the ancient ruins-packed golden plains of the Bagan Archaeological Zone.
As stated by their website, Bagan Lodge was "conceptualized by noted French designer Brigitte Dumont de Chassart, the interiors and grounds of Bagan Lodge are a melding of traditional Burmese design, colonial-era trappings, and contemporary decor. Three classes of accommodation range in size from 50-square-meter deluxe rooms to the 196-square-meter Queen Victoria Suite, which includes four bedrooms, a living room, and a private garden."
Bagan Lodge came with a bevy of facilities, which included a fitness room where I found time to work out a couple of times. Two swimming pools, a spa, and the poolside Tiffin Box Restaurant completed the cadre of dining and drinking spots that also included a lobby lounge and a pool bar.
Staying there by my lonesome provided me with hints of a lonely feeling, as the place was perfect for sharing it with someone: a family member or a girlfriend. Setting my personal longings aside, being there by myself also afforded me a temporary sanctuary that blended well with the storied history and secluded vibe of Old Bagan.
