Despite being a witness to
Poblacion's transformation from a sleazy quarter to an exciting neighborhood,
most of the time I only get to do so to get drunk and dine with friends. So
when word got to me that Meaningful Travels PH is having a Poblacion Makati
Discovery Tour, I quickly signed up for a chance to discover the other hidden
charms of this neighborhood—all without the cuffs of drunkenness.
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| See Poblacion from a different perspective by joining Meaningful Travels PH's Poblacion Discovery Tour |
A
Thriving Artist Community
"A lot of artists now
lives here" our guide and Meaningful Travels PH proprietor Ann told our
group. Looking around, I see the alteration of the Poblacion locality become
more apparent. Gone are the secretive joints where old men would select women
from aquarium-like glass capsuled rooms to take as escorts for the night. A
story has it that the infamous brothel called Don Pedro Mansion, was where the
Z Boutique Hostel now stands. Today, it’s become a popular accommodation for
mostly backpackers from around the world—thus doubling as a mock cultural
melting pot.
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| Ann Marie Cunanan of Meaningful Travels PH leads the Poblacion Discovery Tour |
While a strip of adult cabarets
still remain along P. Burgos Street, the surrounding area is now being
populated by creative spaces such as art galleries, quaint cafes and
restaurants, speak easy bars and even Filipiniana clothing stores.
Poblacion
Discovery Tour: Heritage Stops
Our tour started at our meeting
place at Plaza Casa Hacienda Park. This small park by the banks of Pasig River
hides a history dating back to the 18th century. A historical marker suggest
the origins of the name "Makati" from a local who answered then Spanish
Governor General Don Miguel de Legaspi’s query of the place with "Makati
na, Kumakati na", as the local was referring to the rising level of the
river.
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| Pasig River as seen from Plaza Casa Hacienda Park * |
Afterward, we went to Museo ng
Makati across the street. The museum, characterized by its large Capiz-shell
window shutters, was the former site of the town hall of Makati from its
construction in 1918 until 1961. Today, it houses historical artifacts of Makati,
various dioramas and a "Living Exhibit" gallery featuring artworks
from all over the country.
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| Inside the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral |
Our next stop took us to Saints
Peter and Paul Cathedral. Built by the Jesuits in 1620, it is one of the oldest
churches in Metro Manila. While the original structure was damaged during the
failed British invasion of Manila in 1762, the facade retained its pretty
Baroque architecture. Inside, a Baroque-Rococo-styled carved altar-pieces adorn the
interior.
Across the church is the former
location of Pedro de Macati Cemetery—an 18th century cemetery—that is now Plaza
Cristo Rey. At the time of our visit there was a small event being held at the
plaza. As I watched the locals partake in a festive revelry, I can’t help but
imagine how the lively vibe contrasted to the mournful setting it used to have
before as one of Metro Manila’s oldest cemetery.
Rajo
Laurel’s House of Laurel
History and heritage check.
Now, on to a bit of fashion and art. Walking along other hidden alleyways in
Poblacion had us passing several interesting hole-in-the-wall establishments
like Holy Carabao—a small organic grocer shop. Ann also pointed to us the
Poblacion market where one can find great quality tailored suits and dresses.
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| One of the many good side-street find in Poblacion, the Holy Carabao |
After a few strides entering a
maze of streets, we come across a clothing shop owned and named after one of
the country’s finest fashion designers: Rajo Laurel. Inside is a fashion haven
that would make every lady swoon.
Pineapple
Lab and Glorious Dias
The eccentric art space and
clothing store Pineapple Lab and Glorious Dias came as our next destination.
Founded by local designer Jordinand Aguillon, Pineapple Lab is a platform for
local artists to showcase their works and also functions as a gallery store—a
backdoor leads to a secret lounge where poetry reading and performance art are
held on some nights. While the next door Glorious Dias (named after 1969 Miss Universe Gloria Diaz) sells
Filipiniana silk tops and barongs. Aguillon even showed us a Barong Tagalog
from the 1950s which they redesigned to match current fashion styles while
retaining its nostalgic appearance.
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| Coloful Filipinan clothes and Barongs for sale in Glorious Dias |
The space of Glorius Dias would
make every Titas and even Gen Z fashionistas swoon over its collection of vintage dresses and tops made from pineapple
strands and silks.
Artisan
drinks, vegan food and the Annex House
As the nighttime sets in, the
atmosphere around Poblacion starts buzzing. Early diners are seen walking the
sidewalks in search of either a sumptuous joint or a refreshing
hole-in-the-wall—which in Poblacion, they came aplenty. I have tried several
restaurants and bars here before namely; the craft beer haven Alamat Filipino
Pub, Tambai, Kite, El Chupacabra—just to name a few—so my enthusiasm was
further buoyed when Ann told us that we will be dropping by a new bar called Agimat
Foraging Bar & Kitchen.
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| The ritual of serving drinks at Agimat * |
After climbing a flight of
stairs into the second floor, I instantly found the place oddly beautiful. Who
wouldn't be? At the sight of a Balete Tree protruding in the middle of the bar
that was built around it and the charming wooden fixture and furniture around. It turns out, Agimat was
inspired by the Filipino folklore of the "agimat" (amulet) and their thirst-quenchers
drew inspiration from this and other Pinoy supernatural tales.
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| A shot of "Ritual ng Agimat" is included in the tour |
A mini-performance by the
bartenders ensued; a ritual dance that accompany every serving of Agimat's
signature cocktail, the "Ritual ng Agimat". Other quirky drinks on
the menu includes "Anting-anting ni Malvar", "Gayuman ng Paraiso"
and "Agimat ng Sawi" (probably, the perfect drink for myself). Agimat
also serve a medley of Filipino cuisine but prepared with a twist.
A short walk away was the Annex
House and the Ruins (located next to each other). These are old two-story house transformed into a bar that plays DJ sets
on most nights. While during the day, it doubles as an artist co-working space where you
can see unfinished canvass of paintings displayed around—if you’re lucky, you
can even chance some artists working on their artworks. There is also a small
event place where talks are regularly held.
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| Dee Jae Paeste sharing his stories of creating his art at the Ruins / Annex House * |
Wrapping up our fascinating
Poblacion Discovery Tour is healthy feast at Cosmic Vegan Restaurant. This is
my second time here and each time I still swear about having the best kare-kare
here—a vegan kare-kare that is. We also
ordered the vegan versions of the Isaw, Caldereta, a vegan pasta and a couple
other dishes.
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| Vegan Foodtripping with friends at Cosmic Vegan Restaurant on a previous visit |
After all that walking and learning
additional tidbits about the neighborhood of Poblacion, I’d say we finished our
dinner with gusto.
About
Meaningful Travels PH
Meaningful Travels Ph is a
social enterprise specializing in organizing cultural and community immersions
trip all over the Philippines. Aside from the Poblacion Discovery Tours, they
also have a Marikina and Quiapo Muslim Town and Culture Tour. They also
organize longer tours to Batanes, Batad, Lake Sebu, Bukidnon and more.
Click HERE to book Poblacion Discovery Tour and to HERE to read the tour Itinerary.
The Photos with * are courtesy of Meaningful Travels PH
