I had passed through Dagupan several times previously, typically for quick pit stops at random cafes. A weekend with friends last summer allowed me the opportunity to stay overnight and explore more about the city's nature spots, old churches, and, of course, its culinary delights.
El Jardin by Ciudad Fernandino: a charming bed and breakfast under the vines and stars | Pangasinan
Together with four other travel writers and our host Bong Esguerra, we arrived at El Jardin by Ciudad Fernandino a couple of hours after lunch. The property was well-known among locals for its beautiful al fresco setting, where guests could enjoy a sumptuous meal under the vines and stars. It also accommodated events and had five rooms for visitors to spend the night.
After dropping my overnight stuff in my room, which came modestly sized with simple decor expressing a provincial vibe with a window scenery of Tambac River, we met the matriarch of the family who owned El Jardin by Ciudad Fernandino.
A Family Property Since the Nineteen Twenties
Bong's mom, Mrs. Cynthia Esguerra, immediately welcomed us with a wide smile and a gregarious personality as if we were long-lost relatives long due for a catch-up session.
After a brief exchange of introductions, mother and son Cynthia and Bong shared the story about the origin of their property. El Jardin was originally purchased by Bong's great-grandfather, Sotero Esguerra, in nineteen twenty-six. Initially, the plan for the 7,500 square meter lot was to convert it into a trading post for farmers hauling their produce down the Tambac River and into the old Dagupan Railway station.
After Sotero's passing, half of the property went to Bong's grandfather Nicholas. The property was left neglected for decades following WWII until Cynthia's husband and Bong's father Fernando went back to Dagupan City in nineteen eighty-six.
Small improvements gradually turned the area from a chicken farm to a warehouse storing construction and utility materials, and finally into a modest farm where native tree species, vegetables, and ornamental plants thrived and blossomed, giving the place a green character.
Already a business owner for more than a decade having operated Ciudad Fernandino Hotel and Cafe Dos by Ciudad Fernandino in Urdaneta City, the family decided to create an outdoor events venue and bed and breakfast on their estate.
A Taste of Spanish-Filipino Inspired Cuisine Under the Stars and Trees
After a wonderful afternoon filled with fascinating talks and a brief tour of the surrounding nature spots, which included a picturesque cruise along the waters and mangrove forest of Tambac River, we returned to an awaiting gourmet dinner set-up in the garden of El Jardin by Ciudad Fernandino.
We were joined by Cynthia's daughter Carmina and her husband Mon Camacho, who were both chefs with extensive experience working in various restaurants before they decided to focus on the family's restaurant business.
Chef Mon, in particular, specialized in Spanish cuisine, which explained why the Paella dishes he served us that night—Paella Negra and Paella Laing Con Bagnet—tasted so much better than the Paellas I had before.
Other delectable delicacies on our menu included Sopa de Mariscos, Bangus al Jorno, Gambas, slow-cooked beef belly, and the El Jardin Salad, Apple Crumble Cheesecake, Chocolate Mousse, and Panna Cotta.
Before we dug into the main course, we indulged in another lively social with the Esguerra family over free-flowing Sangria and an appetizing Charcuterie board of various cheeses, cold cuts, fruits, and biscuits.
Under a clear night sky visible of stars and illuminated tree branches and vines, the ambiance exuded every bit of a charming setting. No wonder the place was fast becoming a popular venue for bespoke private dining, intimate gatherings, and a go-to romantic dinner date for couples.
I went to bed satiated gastronomically, filled to the brim, and with newfound knowledge of elevated Spanish-Filipino fusion cuisine.
The next morning, I awoke to the sounds of birds chirping and the delicious aroma of our breakfast composed of dried tuyo, sausages, tapa, sunny side up eggs, fried rice, and fresh salad. As I was sipping my freshly brewed coffee, I couldn't help but wonder about when I would be able to visit El Jardin again. I bet for sure that would be another epicurean delight.
El Jardin by Ciudad Fernandino was located at one hundred eighty-five Tambac-Tebeng Road, Brgy. Tambac, Dagupan City, Philippines.
