It was the dead of the night, and I was sweating because I knew tomorrow wasn't guaranteed. From the darkness ahead, I could hear the war-breathing of the enemy, waiting to pounce on our position, timing their attack. Any second now, I anticipated with dead reckoning the throngs of footsteps and the loud reverberations of their battle cries.
Imagining the Bloody Battles Fought at Fort Culion
These thoughts were likely the ones running through the minds of the men who fought here long ago. During the early Spanish colonization of the Philippines, this fort was all that separated the island of Culion from Moro marauders. Many similar forts lie scattered across the country for the exact same reason: to defend coastal garrisons and Christianized communities from the fierce Moro warriors who vehemently defied Spanish conversion and conquest.
A Bastion Against the Sea
It is always a thrill to visit sites like these forts, whose weathered walls and crumbling remnants have witnessed some of the most ferocious battles in our history. The old cannons that now rest peacefully overlooking the sea present a stark contrast between the present and the past. From the intense violence of centuries ago to the tranquil scene of today—if these iron cannons could talk, they would probably heave a sigh of relief at no longer having their breeches lit to fire deadly projectiles into enemy lines.
According to its historical marker, Culion Fort was constructed in 1740 by Recollect Augustinian friars, built with square-cut coral stones and designed to comprise four defensive bastions. I visited the fort during our Coron trip last week. I had been to Coron in 2009 with my then-girlfriend but had missed out on exploring Culion Island, so on this trip, I eagerly welcomed the side trip to this historic island.
Exploring the Church and Fort Ruins
While the ladies were busy taking photos of themselves on the front steps of the La Inmaculada Concepcion Church, I went around looking for an entrance, as the main doors were closed. Around the back, I discovered a narrow path leading directly to the old fort ruins. Standing there, I was absolutely amazed by the sweeping, panoramic views of the surrounding sea and the quiet town below.
Culion is a profoundly historic island, primarily known for being a former "leper colony" where patients afflicted with leprosy from across the country were isolated and treated. Just a short walk from the fort, you'll find the Culion Museum and Archives, where I learned an incredible amount about the island's history and why it will be forever tied to the eradication of leprosy in the Philippines.
Echoes of a Forgotten Battle
Traveling brings an entirely new layer of experience for me. It's not just about the sights I see, the food I taste for the first time, or the people I meet on the road. It is just as much about digging into the history and standing on the very grounds where pivotal moments in our past occurred.
I can feel the walls trembling now, and the battle cries have started. Judging by the sound, it is certain that blood will flow. Our cannons start to fire, their roars doubling every second, but the enemies' battle cries echo even louder as they charge. The ground is shaking, and I can only do so much as frantically reload gunpowder. I shoot away like a madman, hoping to hit a few of them. They are fast approaching now. I have no time. A sudden flashback of my wife carrying our son flashes before my eyes. Death is on its way. My gun jams. I smile grimly at the enemy as his eyes lock straight onto mine.
Planning a deeper historical and scenic adventure across the province? Check out our complete Palawan Travel Guide for itineraries, transport tips, and essential island-hopping guides.
