Like a cake covered with layers of sugary-coated tastiness, Hanoi’s cultural charms and character were enriched with a diverse set of colonial influences, mainly from the French, which brought a certain European flavor to the city’s architecture, food, and culture. Before the turmoil of a violent war would besiege the whole of Vietnam in the middle of the twentieth century, Hanoi represented the “grand statement of French urbanity and civilization in the tropics of Asia.” The vibe of the streets, dotted with charming French-inspired cafes serving freshly brewed Vietnamese coffee, pho soup, and baguette breads, mirrored the Parisian city.
Postcards and Vignettes from Hanoi | Vietnam
A twenty-year Vietnam War and some forty years later, with all the carpet bombing missions that flew all over the country, one could imagine a country still reeling from the aftermath of those dark days. In total contrast, however, travelers of today were greeted with almost the same charms that existed in Hanoi before the war. Still present were the wonderful French-inspired architecture and the narrow apartments fronting stores that sold almost every imaginable type of merchandise. I guessed it was no coincidence why each street in Hanoi’s Old Quarters all started with the word Hang, which meant ‘merchandise’ in English. Along with the diverse and richness of Vietnam’s culture, the city of Hanoi presented a broad perspective and offered opulent experiences for any traveler.
The Cyclo of Life in Hanoi
Riding one of the iconic rickshaws, the cyclo, along the streets of Hanoi gave me a moving front-row seat to witness the unique hurried activities in the city. From the countless motorcycles coming from all directions to side-street eateries where people sat on short chairs enjoying a hot cup of pho and engaging each other in animated discussions, a traveler would never run out of subjects.
Coffee Everywhere at the Old French Quarters
As the cyclo driver pedaled into Hang Hanh (Coffee Street), he motioned for me “to smell the air.” It was then that I instantly sensed the aroma of fresh coffee liberating the inside of my nose, instantly waking every fiber in my body. After sampling a few, I concluded that my favorite was a place called Café Pho Co, which served egg coffee. There were hundreds of interesting hole-in-the-walls in which to sample local cuisine and drink coffee. Art galleries, shirt and silk stores, and other fascinating boutiques were scattered all over the Old Quarters.
Spring Rolls Dinner and Conversation Over Google Translation
A Vietnamese girl I befriended named Hoang took me on a motorcycle tour a couple of hours outside Hanoi. As she weaved effortlessly on the road, darting in and out like a needle through the thick Hanoi traffic consisting of a thousand motorcycles, I clung to dear life, my face frozen in the winter wind. She invited me to have dinner with her and her friends. Over a plateful of spring rolls and fresh vegetable salad, Hoang’s friends, who were not proficient in English, interviewed me via Google Translate. It was an awkward but hilarious exchange.
Paying Homage to Ho Chi Minh
I had been to Hanoi twice, and both were in the winter months of November and December. So I associated the city with my endless hours of walking in the icy breeze. I recalled walking to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum one morning and lining up to catch a glimpse of the embalmed body of Vietnam’s revered leader (Ho Chi Minh) preserved inside a glass case in the heavily guarded cooled mausoleum hall.
It was surreal seeing the body of a man who successfully led his country to victory during the war against the French and the United States. Since I grew up watching Hollywood-made Vietnam War movies that depicted the North Vietnamese army as the enemy, it was refreshing to learn more about that part of history from the other side’s perspective.
A Walk in the Cold Around Hoan Kiem Lake
The ebb and flow of the city’s motorbikes and pedestrians led me to Hoan Kiem Lake, a scenic part of the city preferred by many photographers shooting couples for prenuptial pictorials. That became my favorite part during the five mornings of my first trip to Hanoi. Under sunny skies and in the twelve-degree-Celsius winter embrace, covered in two layers of jackets, I found the perfect condition to discover every nook and cranny of the city.
The occasional downpour that came at an interlude of a couple of hours had me sheltering under the tall trees that surrounded the lake. Otherwise, I would have gone round and round the lake. Sometimes I would walk toward a random street ending up on another side of the Old French Quarters, but each time I would always follow a path back to Hoan Kiem Lake.
Temple of Literature
A temple of Confucius and the site of Vietnam’s first national university (Imperial Academy) that used to educate members of Vietnam’s elite society was then a place where locals celebrated educational achievement. The day I went there, the place was swarming with young graduates posing for photographs at the Temple’s five courtyards. Also found were eighty-two gravestones and statues that honored more than 1,300 doctors who passed the rigid exams held there during the Ðai Viêt period (1054-1400).
Water Puppet Theater, and Well, More Food
Since Hanoi was a city that still retained its old traditions like “water puppetry,” a practice that went back as far as the eleventh century, dropping by the historic Thang Long Water Puppet Theater was another must-do. Accompanied by live singing and traditional musical instruments, the graceful movements of the water puppets brought an interesting portrayal of various Vietnamese folklore and rural skits highlighting farm activities during the harvest season. As good as the water puppet show was, the highlight for me was when the puppeteers emerged from the back of the stage and met the applause of the crowd with a proud smile.
I walked past the many stalls selling Nike shoes, North Face jackets and bags, T-shirts with cool prints such as “Pho Metal Jacket,” art galleries, and novelty stores. Each of the food stalls I passed was more inviting than the next, so I would eat at a new place every kilometer I walked. My favorite, other than Pho Ga, was the Bun Cha, a local dish served with grilled fatty pork and white rice noodles, and eaten along with other vegetables, herbs, and a tasteful dipping sauce.
Other than the coffee, the energy of Hanoi and its spirited citizens would force one to be on the go all the time. There was just too much to see, eat, and do in that city featuring century-old trees, scenic lakes, and ancient temples and pagodas. At first glance, one would think Hanoi only had one or two defining characteristics, but as one went along, a smorgasbord of fascinating discoveries awaited them. Even with an achy foot and a tired body, the enthusiasm to scratch as many layers prevailed, nourishing one's wanderlust.
