Every morning with daylight yet to ooze from the sky, a multitude of motorboats was heard roaring off the coast of Mercedes town in Camarines Norte. Buoyed by a prayer and a resolve to provide for their families, fisherfolks headed out to the abundant waters of San Miguel Bay, intent on taking home boatloads of fresh catch. Providentially, the body of water that opened to the mighty Pacific Ocean was not called the “fishing bowl” of the Bicol Region for nothing—as each day, the fish market of Mercedes became a bustling scene of fish trading activities.
Witnessing Hushed Bartering Scenes at Bulungan sa Pandawan
But amidst the chaos of the fish-market scene of Mercedes, a traditional manner of bartering reigned over every fisherman, fish broker, and marketgoer. They called this practice “Bulungan sa Pandawan.”
“Bulungan sa Pandawan”
Despite the usual market clatter of fish brokers calling attention to their catch piled on the tiled floors of the market, when it came down to making a bid, the custom way of proposing an amount to the broker was always done through whispering.
By following this hushed practice, the broker then determined who the highest bidder was. Because of that continuous tradition, the Mercedes Fish Port became better known as the “Bulungan sa Pandawan” (or Whispering at the Fish Market).
It was my first time witnessing such a unique trading practice; after being exposed to a market culture where buyers and vendors would quibble out loud, in that fish market, every deal was sealed with a whisper.
Men and women of all ages were seen engaging in that unusual habit of negotiation. The vibe at the market was a synthesis of chaotic activities and moments of inaudible conversations—both blending fascinatingly—creating a captivating market scene I was witnessing for the first time.
A Feast of the Freshest Catch
A few strides from the fish market situated a few restaurants where visitors could have their procured fresh seafood cooked to their recipe of choice. They could have it either grilled, stewed in tomato sauce, or simmered in sinigang or nilaga soups. After spending more than an hour observing the novelty goings-on at “Bulungan sa Pandawan,” I joined our hosts from the Camarines Norte Provincial Tourism Office for a feast consisting of the freshest seafood caught just that morning. We capped our visit to the Mercedes Fish Market by dining on grilled and sinigang fish of various types.
Preparing to leave, I observed the returning fishermen one last time as they unloaded crates of their morning catch from their boats to the fish market docks. I wondered about the richness of marine life thriving in the waters of San Miguel Bay. While it was an aquatic biodiversity that continued to supply livelihoods to the residents of Mercedes, Camarines Norte, it remained to be seen how the seas could continue providing a source of revenue for the local folks. I guessed the answer then rested on how our generation could take care of our oceans to ensure that nothing would poison the marine life flourishing underwater—and in doing so, we could also guarantee that the whispered dealings at Bulungan sa Pandawan would also continue for generations to come.
