Far from the tattoo trails of Buscalan, a richer portrait of Kalinga unfolds in sacred rituals, heirloom recipes, and the coldness of mountain villages.

Despite years spent crisscrossing the Philippine archipelago, a few places have continued to elude me. Chief among them: the mountain village of Buscalan in Kalinga, home to Apo Whang-Od, centenarian, cultural icon, and said to be the oldest traditional mambabatok (Kalinga traditional artist) of her generation. Using a thorn, soot, and indigenous ink, she etches ancestral symbols into skin, each mark a living archive of identity and cultural symbol.

Sunrise over the mountains of Lubuagan, Kalinga is a great reason to wake up early

For many Filipino travelers and weekend warriors, the usual stops in Quezon province tend to circle around the well-worn routes of Lucena, Tayabas, Lucban, and Gumaca, places already familiar to motorists en route to Batangas or Bicol.

Top view of Balagbag Falls in Real, Quezon

Having climbed my fair share of mountains during my college days, I knew well enough that when a guide says, “Just 10 more minutes,” what they really mean is that a good hour or more separates you from the summit. By the time I reached the boulder face of Mount Apo, I was already battling a sea of massive stones. These boulders, remnants of an undocumented ancient eruption, lay scattered like imposing obstacles one has to hurdle with both hands and feet, and an impressive balancing act, before reaching the peak.

A clearing and a sea of clouds

They say the third time’s the charm. But in Batanes, the northernmost province of the Philippines, each of my three visits has carried its own distinct magic. My first trip, over a decade ago, involved pedaling halfway across Batan Island on a rented bicycle. It happened to coincide with a town fiesta, and my friends and I were warmly welcomed into local homes, where we feasted on traditional Ivatan dishes and experienced generous hospitality.

Postcard-images at every turn of the head