On the journey back to Batan Island, I found myself fighting off nausea aboard a small faluwa, the traditional Ivatan boat known for its open deck, deep hull, and absence of outriggers, built to navigate the strong, unpredictable currents between the Batanes islands.

Rugged cliffs dominate the breathtaking landscape of Itbayat

Far from the tattoo trails of Buscalan, a richer portrait of Kalinga unfolds in sacred rituals, heirloom recipes, and the coldness of mountain villages.

Despite years spent crisscrossing the Philippine archipelago, a few places have continued to elude me. Chief among them: the mountain village of Buscalan in Kalinga, home to Apo Whang-Od, centenarian, cultural icon, and said to be the oldest traditional mambabatok (Kalinga traditional artist) of her generation. Using a thorn, soot, and indigenous ink, she etches ancestral symbols into skin, each mark a living archive of identity and cultural symbol.

Sunrise over the mountains of Lubuagan, Kalinga is a great reason to wake up early

Organized by the Tourism Promotions Board of the Philippines, the workshop focused on destination resiliency, signaling renewed support for sustainable tourism in one of the country’s most secluded islands.

Let’s get one thing straight: Batanes isn’t your average beach-and-bar-hopping Philippine getaway. It’s remote, like seriously remote. Located far in the Philippine Sea, over 160 kilometers north of Luzon, it’s a destination that shrugs off convenience. Ships don’t carry passengers, only cargo. Flights are few, and when the weather decides to be unpredictable, which happens often, cancellations are a given.

The workshop participants, media with members of the Tourism Promotions Board of the Philippine (TPB)

Having climbed my fair share of mountains during my college days, I knew well enough that when a guide says, “Just 10 more minutes,” what they really mean is that a good hour or more separates you from the summit. By the time I reached the boulder face of Mount Apo, I was already battling a sea of massive stones. These boulders, remnants of an undocumented ancient eruption, lay scattered like imposing obstacles one has to hurdle with both hands and feet, and an impressive balancing act, before reaching the peak.

A clearing and a sea of clouds

Growing up, the game of pabitin was a familiar presence during town fiestas and children's parties. A bamboo rack, laced with small toys, snacks, and other prizes, would be hoisted above a crowd of eager children. As the rack was lowered and raised again, the children would jump, reaching for whatever they could grab.

Farm and garden produce are all displayed in colorful Baluartes during the Festival