A decade ago, the mere
mention of “Maguindanao” is enough to strike fear, its name inseparable from
the grim headlines of 2009. But as justice has taken its course and the
political climate has begun to settle, the province is emerging from the long
shadow of its past. Today, a shift is underway: toward its culture, its stories,
and the landscapes that have remained largely unseen. Maguindanao may not
appear on the usual tourist itinerary, but it is a place that rewards those
willing to look beyond reputation and toward discovery.
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| Masjid Al-Nasser Abpi, also known as the White Mosque, located in Datu Odin Sinsuat, Maguindanao del Norte. |
Return to Blue
Lagoon
This is not a
reference to a Brooke Shields movie, but to my second visit to this remarkable
natural site, seemingly carved out of a random patch of land just a stone’s
throw from a local community and the main road thus making it both highly
accessible and yet, still carefully maintained by the locals.
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| The inviting Blue Lagoon |
In the town of Datu
Sinsuat, nature presents one of its more peculiar wonders: a circular lagoon,
locally known simply as the “Blue Lagoon.” Measuring roughly 70 to 80
feet across, its waters gleam the electric-blue hue of a Gatorade drink.
Surrounded by centuries-old trees, the pool radiates beautifully under the
seeping sunlight and appears inviting for a dip or a plunge. On my return here,
we were able to share a breakfast platter of local delicacies with some
community members affording me a wonderful experience of the place and its friendly
people.
The Art of Inaul
and Community Craft
The province’s
cultural traditions surface most colorfully in the Inaul, a handwoven textile
whose intricate patterns and vibrant palette reflect the heritage of
Maguindanao’s Muslim communities. On wooden looms, weavers combine dozens of
threads to create cloth that carries both beauty and meaning. Colors are symbolic,
red for bravery, yellow and orange for royalty, black for dignity, green for
peace, and white for either purity or grief. An annual Inaul Festival celebrates
this enduring craft, filling the streets with dancers draped in luminous
fabric.
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| A model dressed in Inaul fabric |
In the town of General Salipada K. Pendatun, mothers cultivate an additional livelihood by transforming the region’s prolific water hyacinths into baskets, mats, and household goods.
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| Basket weavers |
Training programs have allowed Inaul weavers to incorporate
basketry into their skill set, reinforcing an economy rooted in craft and
community. The municipality itself honors a pioneering figure: Salipada Khalid
Pendatun, the first Filipino Muslim to become a lawyer, brigadier general, and
later, a senator and governor.
Waterfalls, Trails,
and the Pink Mosque
Higher in the
province, on the slopes of Upi, a network of gentle trails leads visitors to
modest but striking waterfalls, including Ranao Pilayan Falls. Reaching
the cascade requires only a short walk, a brisk 10 minutes from the trailhead and
offers a peek into the upland landscape of the province.
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| In one of the waterfalls in Maguindanao |
Symbols of unity also rise from Maguindanao’s plains. In Datu Saudi Ampatuan, the Masjid Dimaukom, known as the Pink Mosque, stands as an emblem of interfaith cooperation. Built in 2013 by both Christian and Muslim workers, its bubblegum-colored façade is as notable as the message it was intended to convey.
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| The Pink Mosque |
In the town of Datu Odin Sinsuat, another mosque worth visiting is the White
Mosque, or Masjid Al-Nasser Abpi, which stands out beautifully, especially
against the backdrop of the dusk sky.
The Teduray’s
Tradition
Deeper into the
province, in Barangay Limpongo in Datu Hoffer Ampatuan, the Teduray, one
of the indigenous groups of Mindanao, known to live between Maguindanao del
Norte and del Sur, whose name derives from tew, meaning 'people,' and duray, a
'tiny bamboo hook' symbolizing their skill in fishing, welcomes visitors with
warm smiles and a display of finely crafted rattan and bamboo goods. The women
of the Limpongo Women and Youth Association preserve techniques passed down
through generations, their enterprise providing both income and a means of sustaining
cultural heritage.
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| The Teduray Women weavers |
Such encounters
hint at the layers of tradition that flourish across Mindanao. In this small
barangay alone, the crafts embody stories of ancestry, resilience, and the
patient work of passing knowledge from one generation to the next.
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| Showing off some of their handiworks |
These moments
represent only a fraction of what we have discovered on our journey through
Maguindanao, a province within the Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim
Mindanao that is steadily redefining itself beyond the headlines. I hope you
find time to return, as we still have a lot of beautiful nature and fascinating
cultural sites to show you,” one of our guides and a staff member at the
provincial tourism office told us in Tagalog.
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| An Inaul weaver |
Here in Maguindanao
and away from its past reputation, an interesting culture still exists among
communities committed to keeping their heritage alive, complemented by natural
attractions that continue to reveal themselves to those willing to look.
Tourism Promotions
Board of the Philippines (TPB) Community-Based Program
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| Tourism Promotions Board of the Philippines (TPB) Community-based tourism project in Maguindanao |
Several local
communities in the province has been pinpointed by the Tourism Promotions Board
of the Philippines or TPB – the marketing arm of the Department of Tourism, as important
sites to develop community-based tourism by conducting training sessions,
workshops, and providing materials and consistent support.
This article first appeared on the first print issue of Archipelago Press PH
