Our long Bonifacio weekend trip to Palaui Island was far from easy. It took a severe toll on my buttocks, which became numb five hours into our bus ride from Cubao to Tuguegarao—and that was only the first half of the ten-hour journey. We left the Victory Liner terminal in Cubao around 10 p.m. and arrived in Tuguegarao around 9 a.m., with brief stops in Tumauini and San Pablo, Isabela to visit two historic Spanish colonial churches.
On the Long Road to Palaui Island
We spent the first day in Tuguegarao visiting Callao Cave and taking a leisurely boat ride along the scenic Pinacanauan River to witness the circadian flights of over a million bats—a spectacle that left me completely in awe. The next day, we woke up early to prepare for another three-hour trip to Santa Ana, Cagayan, purchasing camping supplies needed for Palaui Island. We passed by the Metropolitan Cathedral of Tuguegarao and caught the Santa Ana-bound van by 9:30 a.m.
The Ten-Hour Bus Ride to Tuguegarao
The sun was shining brightly, and I remained wide awake for the majority of the journey. We passed through charming little towns that I'd love to explore if time permitted. Out the window, endless rice fields dotted with ducks, cows, and carabaos scrolled past. I also kept track of the roadside kilometer markers, knowing that the final marker of "642 KM" stands proudly in Santa Ana.
I actually enjoy the sensation of long rides when my body aches and my mind races into deep musings—like plotting a bloodless revolution—while absorbing God's painted creation outside. Another thing I noticed was the sheer number of bridges; I lost count of how many we crossed, largely because the Cagayan River is a complex, branching river system, including the aforementioned Pinacanauan River.
Journey to Santa Ana & San Vicente Port
Along the way, I also spotted Port Irene, where car enthusiasts can buy imported automobiles at steep discounts; though given Cagayan's unique political ties, I can only speculate on the strict legality of those grey-market imports. We arrived in Santa Ana around 1:00 p.m. San Vicente Port is located right in Santa Ana, Cagayan. After a brief rest, we rented a boat for 800 pesos round-trip (good for 6 to 8 people)—a remarkably reasonable fee split among our group of six.
Palaui Island is home to approximately 500 residents, the majority of whom belong to fishing families. A Philippine Navy detachment is also stationed on the island, where we registered our names upon arrival. Because fishing boats constantly travel back and forth between Palaui and San Vicente Port, you never have to worry about getting stranded.
We were accompanied by two local guides wearing shirts bearing the slogan "Turismo Solusyon sa Kahirapan"—a community tourism program designed to help local residents earn supplemental income. I don't consider paying for a local guide a "tourist trap," especially when traversing remote, unmarked terrain. These trained guides also instill responsible ecotourism values, reminding us to refrain from vandalizing or defacing natural sites. What I witnessed inside Callao Cave—where thoughtless visitors had carved their names into pristine rock formations—genuinely disgusted me.
Trekking Across Palaui to Camp
Accompanied by our guides Benoit and Franco—alongside Franco's loyal dog "Lambert"—we embarked on a two-hour hike across the island to reach the sheltered beach on the opposite side, which is far more ideal for overnight camping.
During the dry summer months, boats can take you directly to the northern coves. However, because we traveled at the tail end of the monsoon season in December, the coastal waves were far too rough for small outrigger boats to safely navigate around the cape, leaving us no choice but to land on the southern side facing Santa Ana and hike across.
The trek demands a brisk pace but isn't overly strenuous since the terrain is mostly flat with minimal elevation changes. However, we had to carefully navigate muddy sections of the trail where shoes could easily get sucked a foot deep into the mire.
We arrived at our designated beach camp around 4 p.m., leaving us ample time to pitch our tents, cook a late lunch and dinner, and enjoy a quick swim. We even purchased fresh crabs directly from Ate Simone, a local resident whose family makes a living through traditional fishing around Palaui.
Lauren prepared bacon and sausage, while Belle and her friends contributed hotdogs and corned beef. On a personal note, this trip marked the very first time I used a brand-new tent I had bought for myself. There's a profound sense of accomplishment in carrying your own "home on your back" wherever and whenever you roam.
We shared drinks and waited for stars to pierce through the pitch-black sky. A brief rain shower passed before a glittering canopy of stars finally revealed itself. We attempted to sleep around 10 p.m., catching a few hours of shut-eye before waking up at 3 a.m. to start cooking breakfast for the early dawn trek.
Sunrise at Cape Engaño Lighthouse
Right after sunrise, we hiked up the grassy hill where the historic Cape Engaño Lighthouse stands. Climbing the staircase of over a hundred stone steps rewards you with a magnificent panoramic view of sapphire waters and jagged offshore islets breaking powerful ocean waves, while fierce coastal winds threaten to sweep you right off your feet.
Getting to Palaui Island by land is undoubtedly an epic journey. You could easily cut travel time by flying from Manila to Tuguegarao, but where's the adventure in that? We deliberately chose the scenic overland route: a 10-hour bus ride from Manila to Tuguegarao, a three-hour van ride to Santa Ana, and a two-hour jungle hike—summing up to a grueling 15-hour expedition.
It was not a bad way to spend the Bonifacio long weekend—a Northern pilgrimage that even afforded us an extra stopover in Vigan, Ilocos Sur on our bus ride back to Manila.
I'm genuinely glad I fulfilled a year-long dream of visiting Palaui. I had been fascinated and intrigued by the island ever since spotting it on TV one boring Sunday. What a phenomenal way to cure a dull weekend: packing camping gear, rounding up good friends, and diving headfirst into a long, arduous, but unforgettable journey to the northernmost frontier of Luzon.
Shoutout to my new travel companions: Carrie—or Lauren by her real name—who used to model for well-known photographers before quitting because "it became a bastardized practice," as she told me; Sharlyn, who always wakes up late and stumbles half-asleep toward the bathroom; and of course, the fine folks at Deuter, who gave me a 50% discount on my trusty backpack, the Deuter Futura Vario 50+10—a sturdy companion tailor-made for rugged, long-weekend camping expeditions.
Planning your own expedition to Northern Luzon? Check out our complete Cagayan Travel Guide: Nature Spots & Itineraries for top attractions, transport tips, and historical highlights.
