After catching a glimpse
of the Taj Mahal from the rooftop of our hostel in Agra, Aileen and I agreed to
temper first our excitement and check out the other nearby attractions. Before
proceeding to Agra
Fort, we went to this low-key historical landmark also situated along the eastern
bank of Yamuna River. Built from 1622 to 1628, the "Bachcha Taj" or the Tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah is frequently
regarded by architecture scholars as a draft of the Taj Mahal.
Tomb of Nur Jahan's Father
This Mughal mausoleum was
constructed upon the commissioning of Nur Jahan—the consort of Jahangir—for her
father Mirza Ghiyas Beg, a Persian General known among the Mughal Empire for
his war exploits.
Coincidentally, Mirza
Ghiyas Beg (holder of the title I'timad-ud-Daulah) was also the grandfather
of Mumtāz Mahāl, the wife of Shah Jahan (son
of Jahangir from his other wife Jagat Gosain) and for whom the Taj Mahal
was built for.
As complex the Mughal
Empire was, these presence of other bygone landmarks somehow helps in
understanding its storied history.
Described as a "jewel box" because it appears as
one when viewed from a distance, the tomb is also referred to as the ‘Baby Taj Mahal'. Using red sandstone as
prime building materials and marbles for decorations, the structure evokes a
similar visual look as Humayun's Tomb in New Delhi.
The gate to the complex
opens up to a spacious gardens, courtyards and outlying buildings. The tail-end
of winter that brought forth a set of blooming colorful flowers and a lush
green grass capes added a layer of charm to the place when we visited.
Mughal
Architecture
The tomb is considered as
one of the earliest representation of Mughal Architecture that would remain
prevalent during the lifespan of the kingdom. The builders of Taj Mahal pulled
a lot of design inspirations from Bachcha Taj and a number of other edifices built
by the Mughal and Timurid dynasties.
The tomb housing is placed
on the center of the compound surrounded by a four-quartered garden and
prominent lawns. Made of white marble and embellished with beautiful patterns
and designs, it is also surmounted by chhatris
and covered by a square-shaped roof laden with intricately detailed cornice.
Four domed-top minarets completes the exterior.
Each block of walls
blossoms with rich niche details and screened by jali pierced stone. Inside,
another version of decorations and paintings in dark pallet are seen on the
walls. A central hall houses the tombs and cenotaphs of Mirza Ghiyas Beg and
his wide Asmat Begum.
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| Tomb of Mirza Ghiyas Beg and his wide Asmat Begum |
For such a limited space,
the interior is bombarded by an array of designs stylized in various patterns,
carvings and geometrical shapes. One thing that stands out is the process of Pietra dura that was employed on the
interior walls. A Pietra dura is sculpturing technique that uses fitted and cut
colored, polished stones to depict an image.
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| My India travel buddy Aileen. |
As we slowly walk out of the
Tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah, I realized the scope of architectural influence Agra’s past rulers—especially
from the Mughal Empire—remains in the city. As if indicating that we’re in for
more fascinating things to see and learn, a local standing outside the gate of Bachcha
Taj asked us “You been to Taj Mahal?”
I answered “Not yet,
tomorrow morning”. He said back. “This is
beautiful (pointing to Bachcha Taj), but wait when you see Taj Mahal. It is
more pretty”.
