If gazes could talk, one would instantly have heard the surrounding eyes mouthing off intentions of mayhem—a bedlam not equating to violence, but rather expressed through the mischievous actions of more than 700 long-tailed macaques who called that place home. A primate habitat known as the Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, or otherwise referred to as the Ubud Monkey Forest, was another popular tourist destination in Bali. Home to more than 700 long-tailed macaques, it was tucked deep in a forest covering approximately ten hectares with a labyrinth composed of zigzagging water streams, hilly slopes, sheltering towering trees of around 115 different species, and three sacred Hindu temples.
Bali, Indonesia | Witnessing Primate Bedlam at the Ubud Monkey Forest
Banana Crazy Welcoming Party
As soon as I walked inside the complex, I heard a Caucasian woman let out a scream as a macaque climbed over her head. Her male companion told her, "It will be alright, just move slowly and raise your hand." To which she obeyed by lifting her hand holding a banana. The monkey proceeded to snatch the fruit and leaped back to the ground as the other primates followed suit, and they all disappeared into the forest.
As I surveyed the place and took photographs of the first temple, I saw others chilling. Some were casually seated over statues and plant boxes, rubbing their bellies and armpits, while others went around playfully with the other tourists.
I opted not to interact with them by not buying bananas from the vendors. They seemed pudgy and already overfed to me, so I simply avoided eye contact because I had read that some would take it as a sign of aggression or playfulness.
14th Century Hindu Temples
After watching the long-tailed creatures make fun of the horde of visitors, I turned my attention to the sacred temples housed inside the Ubud Monkey Forest. According to the Pura Purana, a holy book made from the leaves of palm trees, the three temples inside the Ubud Monkey Forest were built during the fourteenth century at the height of the Pejeng Dynasty.
Found on the southwestern part of the complex was the Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal Temple, or the Great Temple of Death. In this temple was where the Hindus worshipped the God Hyang Widhi or Acintya—the Supreme God of Indonesian Hinduism, whom they believed characterized Shiva the Recycler.
In the northwestern part of the Monkey Forest, the Pura Beji Holy Spring Temple was where the God Hyang Widhi personified the Goddess Gangga. Hindu faithful went there to conduct the ritual of purification and spiritual cleansing.
The Sacred Circle of Refinement
Completing the troika of Hindu temples was the Prajapati Temple, which was situated on the northeastern part of the park. This was used to worship the God Hyang Widhi as Prajapati—a creator God. A cemetery was located almost beside this temple, which at that time was unbeknownst to me. If only I had known of its significance, I would definitely have checked it out.
The cemetery was where the bodies of the departed Hindus were taken for temporary burial before they were sent to a proper mass cremation ceremony—something that was held once every five years.
Lost in the playful presence of the monkeys was the significant role the temples played in the continuous refinement of the local community’s spiritual life. I later learned that setting aside the attraction of the long-tailed macaques—the religious, artistic, and cultural impact of the Ubud Monkey Forest was a more enthralling topic one had to learn when visiting this destination.
As I inched my way toward the exit, I passed by four macaques huddled together in one corner. I noticed what appeared to be the mother nursing the baby while the father coolly embraced them. Despite their goofiness and bouncy attitude, these creatures also made sure to spend some quality family time with each other. I found the scene a very heartwarming one—and just like that, I sort of felt rejuvenated as I exited the Ubud Monkey Forest.
Ubud Monkey Forest Sanctuary Blueprint
