Seven hours after leaving the city of Bangkok at the stroke of midnight, I found myself on the main highway of Old Sukhothai—under a drizzly sky. With a throbbing head and the effects of intermittent sleep, I located my hostel, which, to my surprise, was nestled within a boutique resort complex. “Our Dorm of Happiness—as we call it, is located on the second floor. Come follow me,” the receptionist told me. She then directed me to my bunk bed inside one of the rooms at the old cream-colored wooden house fronted by a picturesque courtyard.
Relishing the Olden Vibe of the Ancient City of Sukhothai
I quickly crashed on my bed, feeling the soft and comfy satin sheets, and entertained the idea of having a long nap to make up for lost sleep. However, the lure of the olden city of Sukhothai summoned. Instead of surrendering to dreamland, I hurriedly went down and rented a bicycle.
Sukhothai Historical Park
The ancient city of Sukhothai was the first capital of the Siam Kingdom, founded by King Ramkhamhaeng during the thirteenth century. Much smaller than Ayutthaya—one of the succeeding Siam capitals established in the fourteenth century—it had a more concentrated set of temple and monument ruins, now all located inside the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sukhothai Historical Park.
The old city walls covered approximately seventy square kilometers and was where an impressive list of ancient structure ruins numbering to 193 could be found. Easily toured by foot or by riding a bicycle, I spent a total of five days just cycling and walking around this historic park, teeming with beautiful reminders of the bygone years of the Siam Kingdom.
Dawn of Happiness
The Siam Kingdom that thrived during the foundation of Sukhothai coincided with what many historians called the Golden Age of Thai Civilization, thus adding to the historical significance of this ancient city.
Sukhothai literally translated to Dawn of Happiness, and it could not have been more fitting describing a place conveying a laid-back vibe and bounded by an abundant set of nature besieged with trees, rolling hills, and meandering lakes and ponds. I found the setting mirrored many charming countrysides I had been to before—only swarming with remarkable ancient relics.
The historical park could be adequately explored in a day or two, but since I decided to extend my stay to five days, I was able to fully enjoy every bit of my exploration.
I spent my first sunset sitting on the stairs of the enormous remains of Wat Mahathat, one of Sukhothai's most stunning temples. The golden hour glistened on every piece of its towering columns as it led my gaze to its lotus bud-shaped main stupa. I recalled experiencing a sense of spiritual knowledge and serenity of mind as the flaming red sky gradually faded to darkness. As my first night in Sukhothai drew to a close, I looked forward to waking up to a few more sunrises in the coming days.
A Reflective Journey
There was something about visiting ancient towns that usually put me in a reflective mood. Sukhothai had a similar impression on me the moment I stepped upon its storied grounds. A culminating moment of reflection transpired on my last day at Sukhothai. After spending the morning at Wat Si Chum—a fourteenth-century pillared outdoor hall called Mandapa, where a seated fifteen-meter statue of a Buddha was enclosed inside a hall ruin, I made another round to visit the other temple and palace ruins.
One by one; Wat Saphan Hin, Wat Pa Mamuang, Wat Chana Songkhram, Wat Asokaram, Wat Phra Phai Luang, and a seemingly endless list of other Wats, I stared at each with complete awe and gratitude. I felt overjoyed at having the opportunity of laying eyes on structures that had witnessed the birth of Siam culture and the flourishing of the Buddhist faith.
Whether I was lost in wonder admiring all these surviving vestiges of the glorious Siam Kingdom era or blissfully immersed in quiet contemplation staring at the silver lake near Wat Traphang Ngoen monastery, I always found a spot where I enjoyed silent moments polishing my Zen state of mind throughout my five days.
“Old Age is no cause for regret, regret that one is old, having lived in vain”
read one of the signs I saw at one of the temples in Sukhothai. I recited these words as I went on a few more cycle laps around the historical park. In the midst of feeling the wind, smelling the trees, and viewing the sky’s reflection on one of the many glass-like ponds, I finally concluded my meditative journey.
For I felt safe knowing that I was not living my life in vain, but rather—in a way that I would not regret anything when I reached my twilight years. Because there was a lovely way of attaining old age. All we needed to do was protect what was essential and discard what we could live without. Much like how these magnificent Sukhothai remains managed to endure and be bearers of historical knowledge and spiritual enlightenment after many years.
